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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 10:32 AM
  #21  
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makes me reconsider the mikeys i just bought.

Ive got a set of 555r's but they are pretty damn stiff and had a good bit of wheel hop.
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 10:33 AM
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nt05r or 555r?
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by dburt86
makes me reconsider the mikeys i just bought.

Ive got a set of 555r's but they are pretty damn stiff and had a good bit of wheel hop.
Realize we are talking about from a roll.
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 11:52 AM
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Anyone try the Hoosier drag radials?
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 11:55 AM
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like i said, 555r's are the best hooking/lasting street tire, i ran them on my 18's and dead hooked 565whp stabbing it at any gear and they lasted forever. currently makin 900whp and im runnin 295 et streets on a 15in rim and ive made multiple passes at the track,and have driven about 1500miles, with some full power pulls 40-155 in some roll races and ive smoked them for fun sometimes atta low roll, and they still look new lol.... so drag radials last a while here in FL atleast..
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by lmt0705
Anyone try the Hoosier drag radials?
Saw a post of FB the other day where people were complaining about them pretty bad. Said they are garbage compared to the MT
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 12:06 PM
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900hp? What does it run?
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 12:31 PM
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i killed my hoosiers in less then a 1000miles. They hooked awesome new.

I switched my order to the nt05's
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 01:17 PM
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Anybody know why Nitto doesn't post tread width?
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 01:39 PM
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Great, just got talked into using them a few weeks ago
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 408GT
Another thing I've seen Skinnies talk about is using low timing as a traction control.
Traction control is a re-action to traction loss.


Adjusting timing, boost or whatever to prevent traction loss is power/torque management, not traction control in that sense.

There is info all over the place...some suggest 6%, 8%, 10% tyre slip offers the best traction....I really dont think it's as easy as that. In most cases I've found that running right at the edge of breaking traction yields best results.
But of course this will vary from tyre to tyre, surface to surface etc etc so not an easy thing to dial in.

Obviously that's from a roll....if you're talking launch some tyre slip is unavoidable and necessary and another can of worms.

But ramping boost in to control power delivery can only go so far, the next most feasible option to reduce power further is via ignition timing ( assuming you dont have good control over the throttle blade too, DBW and the right ecu can give you even more control options )

It'll all be testing, testing and more testing to see what combination works best for you...your tyres, your road surface...on any particular day.
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 10:08 PM
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Try out a set of BFG Comp 2 A/S. I'm currently using 255/45/18s on my truck. These already feel much better than the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus I use to run, those were 275/40/17 on my old 96 Impala SS. The Pilots always ran 1.8 60' times with no problems. My Impala did have aftermarket RCAs with 12 position QA1s on all 4 corners.

Once I get my truck back from the shop I will post results with the BFGs. I'm gonna guess 1.7 60' times are achievable. Not sure if this is what you are looking for in a street tire and results will vary depending on driver, suspension, road surface conditions, and amount of torque. Good luck in your search.
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 05:50 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
Def over 1000 honest HP in this video when all in. And you can see the surface. It is over 1g acceleration by 80mph. 26" 275 nitto

I could do that over and over like a bracket car.... But if I didn't control the TQ delivery and just let boost wack in like a light switch I'd smoke them on a 1/3 that power

Nitto 555r vbox roll in. 3.4 100-150, 4.1 60-130, 165mph lift - YouTube

Rotary what is your boost range in this video? Can you post a screen shot of how you ramp your boost in? Thanks
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 07:46 AM
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oscs- When setting a turbo car to go from a roll how do you set the suspension up?
Is it the same as it would be for the drag strip or do you go another direction completely?
Is it all about application of power or a lot of things combined?
I am new to the rear wheel drive set ups and I do drive the car a lot so looking to get some traction on the street, from a roll.
Thanks

Mike Reichen
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 69-chvl
Rotary what is your boost range in this video? Can you post a screen shot of how you ramp your boost in? Thanks
No it's secret haha

The video above was from 4psi to 21lbs, same power went 8.50/165

When I go wot and it sits there a second it is on the gates at 4lbs

I run a 2 stage ramp... This is it. This Is my last config where I was free spooling the turbo, so more pressure added on out the back than the vid

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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 1 fast evo 2
oscs- When setting a turbo car to go from a roll how do you set the suspension up?
Is it the same as it would be for the drag strip or do you go another direction completely?
Is it all about application of power or a lot of things combined?
I am new to the rear wheel drive set ups and I do drive the car a lot so looking to get some traction on the street, from a roll.
Thanks

Mike Reichen
I wish I had a more educated answer for you on this. Fact is I have cheap GC coil-overs and tokico struts with the stiffness setting turned all the way up. This is the same setting I use at the drag strip.

Where I think the delivery of power is the most important aspect, your car needs to be evenly balanced and suspension set up properly too. My car is corner balanced and my split is 54% front and 46% rear. As you can see thats not perfect but it keeps the front end from coming off the ground at the track and also prevents the car from squatting terribly.

My advice is find a decent tire. Find a setting that works at the track and hit the streets. Playing with your boost ramp on the street and getting it right takes a **** ton of time. It's all about seat time. Ask Zach brown how many gallons upon gallons of fuel and tires he has burned through to get the data he has. Building a car with a bunch of HP is honestly the easy part. Sticking with it and being patient to find how to use it has been the challenging part for me.

Last edited by oscs; Apr 2, 2016 at 01:14 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 11:22 AM
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This is true ^^^

Spinning sucks haha
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
No it's secret haha

The video above was from 4psi to 21lbs, same power went 8.50/165

When I go wot and it sits there a second it is on the gates at 4lbs

I run a 2 stage ramp... This is it. This Is my last config where I was free spooling the turbo, so more pressure added on out the back than the vid



Thanks for all the insight rotary.

I just went for a drive and can smoke these street tires with no boost, so I have some work to do.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 05:38 AM
  #39  
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Pep Boys tires - Futura super sport GLS, been 1.58 60ft in my fox on a 275/60, 1.56 60ft in my ltd on a 255/60. Suspension and how you apply the power is very important. The ltd has been 10.2's and the fox 9.0 at 163mph with very limited passes. I'm shooting for some 8.5x at 170+ on them this year.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 05:54 AM
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Has anyone messed with the factory traction control to create a type of launch control? I.E. reduce the duration and how aggressive the timing retard it?
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