Street tires that hook
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Adjusting timing, boost or whatever to prevent traction loss is power/torque management, not traction control in that sense.
There is info all over the place...some suggest 6%, 8%, 10% tyre slip offers the best traction....I really dont think it's as easy as that. In most cases I've found that running right at the edge of breaking traction yields best results.
But of course this will vary from tyre to tyre, surface to surface etc etc so not an easy thing to dial in.
Obviously that's from a roll....if you're talking launch some tyre slip is unavoidable and necessary and another can of worms.
But ramping boost in to control power delivery can only go so far, the next most feasible option to reduce power further is via ignition timing ( assuming you dont have good control over the throttle blade too, DBW and the right ecu can give you even more control options )
It'll all be testing, testing and more testing to see what combination works best for you...your tyres, your road surface...on any particular day.
Once I get my truck back from the shop I will post results with the BFGs. I'm gonna guess 1.7 60' times are achievable. Not sure if this is what you are looking for in a street tire and results will vary depending on driver, suspension, road surface conditions, and amount of torque. Good luck in your search.
I could do that over and over like a bracket car.... But if I didn't control the TQ delivery and just let boost wack in like a light switch I'd smoke them on a 1/3 that power
Nitto 555r vbox roll in. 3.4 100-150, 4.1 60-130, 165mph lift - YouTube
Rotary what is your boost range in this video? Can you post a screen shot of how you ramp your boost in? Thanks
Is it the same as it would be for the drag strip or do you go another direction completely?
Is it all about application of power or a lot of things combined?
I am new to the rear wheel drive set ups and I do drive the car a lot so looking to get some traction on the street, from a roll.
Thanks
Mike Reichen
The video above was from 4psi to 21lbs, same power went 8.50/165
When I go wot and it sits there a second it is on the gates at 4lbs
I run a 2 stage ramp... This is it. This Is my last config where I was free spooling the turbo, so more pressure added on out the back than the vid

Is it the same as it would be for the drag strip or do you go another direction completely?
Is it all about application of power or a lot of things combined?
I am new to the rear wheel drive set ups and I do drive the car a lot so looking to get some traction on the street, from a roll.
Thanks
Mike Reichen
Where I think the delivery of power is the most important aspect, your car needs to be evenly balanced and suspension set up properly too. My car is corner balanced and my split is 54% front and 46% rear. As you can see thats not perfect but it keeps the front end from coming off the ground at the track and also prevents the car from squatting terribly.
My advice is find a decent tire. Find a setting that works at the track and hit the streets. Playing with your boost ramp on the street and getting it right takes a **** ton of time. It's all about seat time. Ask Zach brown how many gallons upon gallons of fuel and tires he has burned through to get the data he has. Building a car with a bunch of HP is honestly the easy part. Sticking with it and being patient to find how to use it has been the challenging part for me.
Last edited by oscs; Apr 2, 2016 at 01:14 PM.
The video above was from 4psi to 21lbs, same power went 8.50/165
When I go wot and it sits there a second it is on the gates at 4lbs
I run a 2 stage ramp... This is it. This Is my last config where I was free spooling the turbo, so more pressure added on out the back than the vid


I just went for a drive and can smoke these street tires with no boost, so I have some work to do.









