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Microsquirt problems?

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Old May 30, 2016 | 12:24 AM
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Default Microsquirt problems?

I have a 2005 l33 with twin on3 70mm turbos, 80lbs injectors, running microsquirt. I ran this all of last year and everything ran fine, started it up this year with nothing changed and it would lose sync at around 6200rpm, after a coup;e times running it would lose sync at around 4800rpm, a few times after that 3000rpm is all i could get it to do, and the logs show some extremely off rpms when it was stumbling as high as 17,000 rpm on the logs.

Now it won't show an rpm sync at all when cranking, trigger logger shows nothing, and it obviously won't start. Replaced the crank sensor and it didn't help. re-flashed the firmware and loaded denmahs base tune and still won't rpm sync.

Any help is appreciated, don't know if something got fouled up in my settings somehow or if the micro is bad, or the wheel is bad.
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Old May 30, 2016 | 03:33 AM
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You need to confirm your crank/cam triggers are working fine...which pretty much requires an oscilloscope unless the MS has some sort of trigger diagnostic.
Although you could check to ensure those sensors have correct and stable power supply and ground.

No wiring has changed or anything ?
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Old May 30, 2016 | 06:51 AM
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Id have to imagine that a progressive failure like that is going to be either the cam or crank sensor its self and not the actual micro.
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Old May 30, 2016 | 06:51 AM
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Check and make sure that your grounds are good and wires to crank sensor aren't burnt broke.
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Old May 30, 2016 | 10:52 PM
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being a m-squirt he is going to only have crank signal. I would open the m-squirt box open and check the resistors to see if one of them may have come loose and maybe even replace the resistors after all wiring has been double checked.
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Old May 31, 2016 | 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
...check to ensure those sensors have correct and stable power supply and ground...
Originally Posted by rt338b
Check and make sure that your grounds are good and wires to crank sensor aren't burnt broke.
+1

Absolute first place I'd look. I've seen similar issues, which seemed to be RPM related simply be a battery terminal that felt "snug enough", but not tight. If you can wiggle or pry the leads off the terminals, they're not tight enough. Same with ALL other connections.

Good luck with the fix. This stuff can be so damn frustrating. Hope it's something simple like this.
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Old May 31, 2016 | 06:12 AM
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I've had similar issues before. All due to bad wiring/grounds and a dying starter.
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Old Jun 1, 2016 | 04:18 AM
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Crank sensor wiring appears to be good, resistors are all soldered on good, it did have a junk battery on it that I replaced, but it lost all its rpm signal with a good battery in it. Battery terminals aren't the greatest (have new ones on the way) but it was cranking over pretty good
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Old Jun 1, 2016 | 06:04 AM
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Time for a new crank sensor.
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Old Jun 1, 2016 | 07:40 AM
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Crank sensors from autobone obeillys and such are junk. GM works great. Get used one if you have to off junkyard motor and try. I had one of theirs and it failed almost instantly. Check your fuse in harness for crank sensor and its wiring to make sure also. Was this a homemade harness or one you bought from EFI. Also make sure your RPM for cranking in firmware is low enough to start.
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Old Jun 1, 2016 | 07:43 AM
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9JXZ2...TST44A24D72EX8
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