help please!!!!!! keep chewing up rod bearings
Nothing wrong with those clearances. I agree, it's strange that #1 looks fine while the others are shot. I suppose the crank could be bent, but you figure that would have been checked during machining. Put the front main cap back on and have someone turn the engine over with a dial indicator on #3 main and check the runout. This is kind of a make shift way to make sure the crank isn't bent. I'd also suspect the rods to be as bad or worse than the mains seeing that they're oiled from the mains.
Could be a bit of debris left in the block stuck between two of the journals. However unlikely.
Could also be a measurement is incorrect, you know warped block or out of alignment parts, that sort of thing.
Very unlikely to be in the tune, unless you turned the oil into gasoline and tried to use it to lubricate the engine, and even then it would show similar on all the bearings I feel.
Could also be a measurement is incorrect, you know warped block or out of alignment parts, that sort of thing.
Very unlikely to be in the tune, unless you turned the oil into gasoline and tried to use it to lubricate the engine, and even then it would show similar on all the bearings I feel.
ok i finally got a little motivation to tear this thing the rest of the way down. i removed number 5 main cap and found that a little over 3/4 surface of the bearing was still good but the rest was showing copper like the middle 3. I did what someone suggested and torqued #1 and #5 main caps down and installed a dial indicator on #3 main journal. Sure enough when spinning the crank over i have .0025" of runout. So either my crank got bent from the time it was turned until i put it together or something wasnt right when they turned it.
So now it looks like ill be buying a new crank. Is it worth it to buy an aftermarket forged crank or will i be fine with a stocker? only looking to make 700-800 to the wheel. ill post up pics later of all the bearings/
So now it looks like ill be buying a new crank. Is it worth it to buy an aftermarket forged crank or will i be fine with a stocker? only looking to make 700-800 to the wheel. ill post up pics later of all the bearings/
ok i finally got a little motivation to tear this thing the rest of the way down. i removed number 5 main cap and found that a little over 3/4 surface of the bearing was still good but the rest was showing copper like the middle 3. I did what someone suggested and torqued #1 and #5 main caps down and installed a dial indicator on #3 main journal. Sure enough when spinning the crank over i have .0025" of runout. So either my crank got bent from the time it was turned until i put it together or something wasnt right when they turned it.
So now it looks like ill be buying a new crank. Is it worth it to buy an aftermarket forged crank or will i be fine with a stocker? only looking to make 700-800 to the wheel. ill post up pics later of all the bearings/
So now it looks like ill be buying a new crank. Is it worth it to buy an aftermarket forged crank or will i be fine with a stocker? only looking to make 700-800 to the wheel. ill post up pics later of all the bearings/
As far as the crank, seems like a lot of guys in that power range on stockers. When I do my forged setup, I'll be using a stock crank. Not syaing that's what to do, I'm just really cheap and tend to do things twice, lol
ok i finally got a little motivation to tear this thing the rest of the way down. i removed number 5 main cap and found that a little over 3/4 surface of the bearing was still good but the rest was showing copper like the middle 3. I did what someone suggested and torqued #1 and #5 main caps down and installed a dial indicator on #3 main journal. Sure enough when spinning the crank over i have .0025" of runout. So either my crank got bent from the time it was turned until i put it together or something wasnt right when they turned it.
So now it looks like ill be buying a new crank. Is it worth it to buy an aftermarket forged crank or will i be fine with a stocker? only looking to make 700-800 to the wheel. ill post up pics later of all the bearings/
So now it looks like ill be buying a new crank. Is it worth it to buy an aftermarket forged crank or will i be fine with a stocker? only looking to make 700-800 to the wheel. ill post up pics later of all the bearings/
Never had a problem before the ameature rebuild and No signs of detonation.
If you do another stock crank, Maybe send it out for heat treat. I have had cranks Ion Nitrated in the past and they seem to do well.
I was considering it this time on the new rebuild but someone talked me into using an LSA crankshaft. 12641691 It's a factory 3.622 stroke, forged crank. Around $540 from most mail order places.
What do the cam bearings look like? Stock blocks are priority cam. If it's oil starvation I bet the cam bearings look similar to your mains. Are there any grooves in the bearings?
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo When someone starts having this much trouble with a "built engine" I recommend you switch to an OEM engine, drive it around (limit power output) and teach yourself how to keep is clean, keep it tuned up first. If oil pressure is an "issue" You will want to log it electronically so you can review oiling performance after hard runs.
Once you understand that the inside needs to be doctor-surgery clean as possible, that it is critical during assembly to use the attention to detail with roundness, flatness, and cleanliness, you can try switching back to something built with new found appreciation for the minutely small.
Once you understand that the inside needs to be doctor-surgery clean as possible, that it is critical during assembly to use the attention to detail with roundness, flatness, and cleanliness, you can try switching back to something built with new found appreciation for the minutely small.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 367
Likes: 4
From: eastern nc
ooohhh check the crank .i had same problem ,every body cant turn l/s style cranks .keeping the radius right is critical on these cranks .talk to a couple out state machine shops that are good with l/s . main clearances iron block turbo 0025 to 0028 max 003