Whose fan runs all the time?
Whose fan runs all the time? Just as it says, whose fan runs all the time? I've got a Treadstone TRV25 intercooler in front of the radiator on my Nova and once the fan comes on, it drops the temps but not enough to shut the fan off. I've got it coming on at 195 and off at 185. Even on the E-way it'll get down to 188ish. It's a 16 inch spal puller fan behind a good size radiator. Car never comes close to getting over 200 with the fan on. I just changed my settings to on 200 and off at 190 to see if the cooling system itself can maintain 190 with no fan cruising.
I may put a 160 stat in it just to keep it open all the time. I'm one that believes to flow the water as fast as possible through the radiator and maybe my 180 stat is starting to close just enough to keep the temp up.
I have the same intercooler, lowered it as much as possible to open up the radiator
I have some dual fan off Ebay, have them staged to come on at diff temps.
Neither run once I get moving, if it idles for a long time, the sec. kicks on, but temp peaks at 199, and the sec will kick off, then back on.
I have a Griffin LS conv. rad. I have what was sup. to be a 160 therm., but it gets down to the 170's and stays there.
I have noticed diff readings on my other car depending on where I pick up the water for temp readings, left front or right rear.
There is a better thermo., I think Lingenfelter or someone sells one that flows better-a guy up the street used a ford one in his new Camaro, says it runs cooler
I have some dual fan off Ebay, have them staged to come on at diff temps.
Neither run once I get moving, if it idles for a long time, the sec. kicks on, but temp peaks at 199, and the sec will kick off, then back on.
I have a Griffin LS conv. rad. I have what was sup. to be a 160 therm., but it gets down to the 170's and stays there.
I have noticed diff readings on my other car depending on where I pick up the water for temp readings, left front or right rear.
There is a better thermo., I think Lingenfelter or someone sells one that flows better-a guy up the street used a ford one in his new Camaro, says it runs cooler
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I have the same intercooler, lowered it as much as possible to open up the radiator
I have some dual fan off Ebay, have them staged to come on at diff temps.
Neither run once I get moving, if it idles for a long time, the sec. kicks on, but temp peaks at 199, and the sec will kick off, then back on.
I have a Griffin LS conv. rad. I have what was sup. to be a 160 therm., but it gets down to the 170's and stays there.
I have noticed diff readings on my other car depending on where I pick up the water for temp readings, left front or right rear.
There is a better thermo., I think Lingenfelter or someone sells one that flows better-a guy up the street used a ford one in his new Camaro, says it runs cooler
I have some dual fan off Ebay, have them staged to come on at diff temps.
Neither run once I get moving, if it idles for a long time, the sec. kicks on, but temp peaks at 199, and the sec will kick off, then back on.
I have a Griffin LS conv. rad. I have what was sup. to be a 160 therm., but it gets down to the 170's and stays there.
I have noticed diff readings on my other car depending on where I pick up the water for temp readings, left front or right rear.
There is a better thermo., I think Lingenfelter or someone sells one that flows better-a guy up the street used a ford one in his new Camaro, says it runs cooler
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
I don't run a thermostat. Mine stays running once its on unless I get on the highway, and they only kick off if I stay a consistent 75 mph or so. The fans kick on at 190. The car never gets above 200, even idling for long periods and with the fan trying to pull through a 3" radiator and a 4" intercooler.
I wouldn't say its a big issue. The fan works, the car doesn't get hot.
I wouldn't say its a big issue. The fan works, the car doesn't get hot.
Ok. Yeah, I agree, I don't think there's a problem. Just wondering if anyone else's fan runs full time. I too am trying to pull air through the radiator and a 3.5 inch intercooler.
No point or reason to running a fan all the time. defeats the purpose of an electric fan, might as well go back to a clutch fan.
Excess wear and tear if you run it more than it needs to. Optimum coolant temp is between 170 and 220F, depending on the kind of vehicle. Stock engines with economy concerns run higher temps. Performance cars with oil temp sensors seeing 200-212*F Oil temps can run colder coolant temps, 150-170F~ is fine if the oil is hot.
If you run a cold coolant, the oil might not warm up fully, and that is associated with excess wear and tear on the engine. Engines making short cold oil trips live significantly shorter life spans.
Excess wear and tear if you run it more than it needs to. Optimum coolant temp is between 170 and 220F, depending on the kind of vehicle. Stock engines with economy concerns run higher temps. Performance cars with oil temp sensors seeing 200-212*F Oil temps can run colder coolant temps, 150-170F~ is fine if the oil is hot.
If you run a cold coolant, the oil might not warm up fully, and that is associated with excess wear and tear on the engine. Engines making short cold oil trips live significantly shorter life spans.
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: san Diego
I've always turned my fans on manually when I felt they needed to come on. I Usually flip them on at about 185-190 if I'm at a stop light or in a little traffic. Once I start driving again the temp goes down and I turn the fans off. I try to keep any unnecessary electrical load down as much as possible but that's just my personal preference.
Originally Posted by forcd ind
I have the same intercooler, lowered it as much as possible to open up the radiator
I have some dual fan off Ebay, have them staged to come on at diff temps.
Neither run once I get moving, if it idles for a long time, the sec. kicks on, but temp peaks at 199, and the sec will kick off, then back on.
I have a Griffin LS conv. rad. I have what was sup. to be a 160 therm., but it gets down to the 170's and stays there.
I have noticed diff readings on my other car depending on where I pick up the water for temp readings, left front or right rear.
There is a better thermo., I think Lingenfelter or someone sells one that flows better-a guy up the street used a ford one in his new Camaro, says it runs cooler
I have some dual fan off Ebay, have them staged to come on at diff temps.
Neither run once I get moving, if it idles for a long time, the sec. kicks on, but temp peaks at 199, and the sec will kick off, then back on.
I have a Griffin LS conv. rad. I have what was sup. to be a 160 therm., but it gets down to the 170's and stays there.
I have noticed diff readings on my other car depending on where I pick up the water for temp readings, left front or right rear.
There is a better thermo., I think Lingenfelter or someone sells one that flows better-a guy up the street used a ford one in his new Camaro, says it runs cooler
I run a little racing Scirocco radiator with dual fans pulling through a big Treadstone intercooler and just let them run on a switch for now. In traffic on a HOT humid day the car sees 200-205 but cools down as soon as it gets moving. I plan on running them through the Holley soon to turn on and off at temp. Also have a race Mezeire electric water pump with no thermostat provisions.
I have a stock 5.3 with a supercharger. 28"x19" HOWE dual core aluminum rad, 16lb cap, Procomp HV waterpump, Mr gasket 160 Tstat, heater ports plugged, rad is filled with mostly distilled water/water wetter and a touch of coolant. I ran this combo with my dual speed mark VIII fan with a custom controller with fan low on 170/ off 160, fan high on180/170off. I run a ford superduty trans cooler which is literally another radiator infront of my rad.
Originally I ran coolant/water mix so I was -10*F of freeze protection.
Engine temps would never reach 180*F in hot NJ summer. Fan low would be on most of the time but never really needed high speed.
Now that I run a 31x12" Ebay FMIC Temps rose 20* and I was seeing 200*F engine temps pretty easily. So I drained the coolant/water mix and delutted it with distilled water and water wetter. Temps are back in the 175-185*F range. But Engine temps will hit 190*F if I beat on it pretty good esp in hot traffic. So I saw a 20*F increase in engine temps just from air flow blockage from the FMIC. This also directly affected everything under the hood in the form of heat soak to the supercharger head unite, piping, IATs etc. Still my low speed is on all the time but high speed will kick on and off once in a while.
OP try running more water. Going from coolantmix to straight water is worth like 20* drop if you run a wetter agent. Only down fall is that I have to drain the system before winter here in NJ.
Originally I ran coolant/water mix so I was -10*F of freeze protection.
Engine temps would never reach 180*F in hot NJ summer. Fan low would be on most of the time but never really needed high speed.
Now that I run a 31x12" Ebay FMIC Temps rose 20* and I was seeing 200*F engine temps pretty easily. So I drained the coolant/water mix and delutted it with distilled water and water wetter. Temps are back in the 175-185*F range. But Engine temps will hit 190*F if I beat on it pretty good esp in hot traffic. So I saw a 20*F increase in engine temps just from air flow blockage from the FMIC. This also directly affected everything under the hood in the form of heat soak to the supercharger head unite, piping, IATs etc. Still my low speed is on all the time but high speed will kick on and off once in a while.
OP try running more water. Going from coolantmix to straight water is worth like 20* drop if you run a wetter agent. Only down fall is that I have to drain the system before winter here in NJ.