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Old Sep 9, 2016 | 05:12 PM
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Default Shopping List/Recommendations - TT LQ4

New to FI and LSX world and wanting to build a semi-budget LQ4 with twins. HP goal is around 800-900rwhp and will live for a season. Going in a 2900lbs 1980 Malibu w. T400.

ET goal is high 8's - mid 9's
Where to start?

LQ4 - what year is most desireable?
TT Kit - CXR, Huron, On3, Others?

Will be going with a victor Jr or other carb intake and running a blowthrough at first until I switch to EFI. 1 learning curve at a time.

Can you fine folks help me with recommendations?
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Old Sep 10, 2016 | 09:12 AM
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You want to buy an 04+ LQ4 9:1 compression or LQ9 10:1 compression engine because they come with the GEn4 internals, better connecting rods and floating pistons. Your better off building your own turbo kit. Look around here, with some stock manifolds and a competent welder it's not too difficult. Your better off going straight to EFI b/c it will save you a bunch of money in the long run.
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 10:06 AM
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Thanks T. Just discovered Denmah's wiki, which is incredible and he also breaks down the years for good cores. Rethinking EFI as well. Was always worried about the tuning since no one I know and trust has any experience.
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 10:40 PM
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If you are going to run twins... just use stock truck or similar manifolds flipped forward and make your own piping to the turbine housing... then bumper exiting downpipes.

If you have the stock truck intake... just run it. JFR Racing had the stock bottom end record in a 3400lb Nova, stock 6.0 shortblock, mildly ported 317 heads, 218/218 cam I believe, stock truck intake/TB, upgraded injectors, single turbo running 8.20's@171mph or right around there.

A single turbo can easily bend the rods in your stock bottom end... unless you plan in the future to do a super built motor and are shooting for 1500hp+ I would just run a single. Less weight/packaging constraints.
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 11:53 PM
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I want to go with twins since I have tons of room, smaller twins spool quicker, and are just badass to see. I plan to get my toes wet with a jy lq4, then If I like what I see, build a more solid lq4 w. good internals, but keeping the turbo setup.

I am a efi/fi virgin and so are all my friends that normally help me build/tune, so I figure a kit is the best way to go as for getting all the necessary parts. In a 2900# car w. T400 tbrake, and what, 3.23's, even 700whp should easily go 9's.
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 05:09 AM
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700whp in a 2900lb car should easily go 8's lol. I just easily went 9's with 650 and 3600lb car.

Twins will not "spool quicker" if your single is setup to what you're trying to do. With that said yes twins are badass looking. Cast wheels s366's are very popular and are about 650 each. Those turbos can make 1300-1400 to the tire it will be more then what you need that's for sure. Lots of guys going deep in the 8's with those turbos.
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 05:54 AM
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-Twins will spool faster on a junkyard style setup (no professionally length/CAD tubes/merge)

-Coat and Wrap everything that will see exhaust gas. All temp must be kept inside plumbing for variety of reasons.

- 93 octane? Use Methanol Injection
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 08:24 AM
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I assume I could run race gas once I upped the boost, or would that be an issue? See lots of folks running PG, or E85, but not many using 100-110 oct. Is it purely the cost per gallon, or something about higher octane hurting boost?






Last edited by Rob07002; Sep 12, 2016 at 08:49 AM.
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 08:21 PM
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Better quality race gas is more expensive, less available, and the leaded variety will eventually ruin your oxygen sensors. If you do use it, it is awesome for boost. That being said, alcohol based fuels carry a lot of oxygen with them and are high octane, so they are also great for boost.
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Old Oct 25, 2016 | 11:59 AM
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So the build has officially begun. Weather here in the NE will get ugly soon, so I want to start buying all the part ASAP and make the swap during the frigid months.

I just picked up a 2006 LQ4 6.0 with only 73K. Here is my shopping list based on the amount of homework done. What's missing?

Fuel pump $378.00 Aeromotive a1000 https://m.summitracing.com/parts/aei-11101
Fuel regulator $165.00 Aeromotive a1000 https://m.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13109
Fuel return
3.31 gears $233.00 US Gear 3.31:1 https://m.summitracing.com/parts/ugr-01-888331
3 series spool $194.00 Strange race spool https://m.summitracing.com/parts/str-d1549
LQ4 $1,500.00 $1,200.00 6.0 w 73K, tested, 90 day warranty http://www.capitalautosalvage.net/cgi-bin/search.cgi
Motor Mounts $120.00 LSX/G-Body swap https://www.summitracing.com/parts/u...t/model/malibu
MLS head gaskets $53.00 Chevy Performance/GM LS9 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...2033/overview/
Head studs $130.00 China head studs 2004+ http://www.alpermotorsports.com/inde..._detail&p=2434
Custom cam $390.00
Pac1218 valve springs $169.00 .600" lift beehive springs http://www.briantooleyracing.com/600...e-springs.html
80# injectors $330.00 Siemens Deka injectors http://www.ebay.com/itm/Siemens-Deka...tXw3IH&vxp=mtr
CTS-V oil pan $310.00 Oil pan, baffle, pickup http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GM-2004-...JXB9Va&vxp=mtr
Turbo kit $2,400.00 CX Racing TT kit http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...de=TRBGMG-Body
Engine management $795.00 Microsquirt V3 plug n play http://www.efisource.com/shop/ls1-24...-play-harness/
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Old Oct 25, 2016 | 12:14 PM
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Off to a good start. You may want to take those links out of your post since many of them are not sponsors.
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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 01:40 PM
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Thoughts on twin BW S300SX3's - 66mm-T4-Twin Scroll-0.91 A/R in a SBE 6.0 w. custom cam, stock heads and truck intake?

Too big?
Too small?
Just right and room to grow?
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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 02:22 PM
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You may want to rethink china studs. Good head gaskets and a good tune with stock head bolts is all you need. I know of a few people that have used china studs and when they try to take them out they are seized and cause all kinds of problems
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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 66Chevellelq4
You may want to rethink china studs. Good head gaskets and a good tune with stock head bolts is all you need. I know of a few people that have used china studs and when they try to take them out they are seized and cause all kinds of problems
Yeah, I've read most of the threads here, on turboforums, and the bullet. Can go either way I suppose. I may not go china studs and stick with ARP's when the time comes. Just trying to keep the budget from spooling out of control on this build.

My plan is to get my feet wet with FI/EFI on a JY motor and build a seperate long block with all the forged/top=shelf stuff.

I've also had top tier parts break for no reason and that is painful.
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