Towing with boost
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I didn't see what engine you are planning to run. Just that you said it will be an LS...
Edit; Just ran 4.33's/36" tires with a .7 OD in a calculator. 70MPH = 2K RPM
Keep in mind unless you have the natural torque to hold that RPM under the intended load, set in that gear, you may find it dropping down a gear even when cruising or going up a slight hill.
Also not sure how built this thing is but give consideration to whether or not this 60 is going to be able to hold the torque @ load locked in OD.
Ideal all depends on load & what the general parameters of what you need it to do.
The converter being optimized for the package as a whole is going to also be paramount.
Edit; Just ran 4.33's/36" tires with a .7 OD in a calculator. 70MPH = 2K RPM
Keep in mind unless you have the natural torque to hold that RPM under the intended load, set in that gear, you may find it dropping down a gear even when cruising or going up a slight hill.
Also not sure how built this thing is but give consideration to whether or not this 60 is going to be able to hold the torque @ load locked in OD.
Ideal all depends on load & what the general parameters of what you need it to do.
The converter being optimized for the package as a whole is going to also be paramount.
Last edited by gtfoxy; Dec 2, 2016 at 07:30 AM.
2871r garret turbocharger each support 44lb/min (the 56 trim versions). It is a highly desirable turbo for a 2.0L engine, one which I have a ton of experience with. The 64 a/r version supports around 360rwhp through the 2.0L drivetrain, and the 86 a/r version supports around 400. I would expect a V8 of any displacement with 2 of those turbos to max around 750rwhp in a wide variety of applications. They are t-25 flange turbos but can be purchased with a T3 option. Full "pump gas" boost (18psi) on the 2.0L engine for a single 86 a/r version is around 3800rpm, where the 64 a/r does it by 3400rpm. With 3L (half of a 6.0) I would guess around 3000rpm and 15 to 18psi is possible, especially if automatic trans w/ converter.
My initial recommendation after reading your post would have been twin T04E 50 trim, T3 exhaust 48 a/r turbos, a max of around 650rwhp and slightly faster spooling is possible, with lower initial cost, but they are not water cooled nor ball bearing, which is a big advantage for the 2871r style and daily drivers in general. Make sure you coat everything, and then blanket and wrap it as much as possible.
My initial recommendation after reading your post would have been twin T04E 50 trim, T3 exhaust 48 a/r turbos, a max of around 650rwhp and slightly faster spooling is possible, with lower initial cost, but they are not water cooled nor ball bearing, which is a big advantage for the 2871r style and daily drivers in general. Make sure you coat everything, and then blanket and wrap it as much as possible.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2016
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Thanks for that mate, I'm really not looking for either of those HP numbers, just bulk torque as discussed. To be honest, id be happy choking this up a bit to bring the power down lower. Im feeling even better with that choice now from what you've said. I bought the 64 a/r for that exact reason you mentioned. I'll only ask 9-10psi from them, so may have to look at WG springs as I'm not actually sure what the WG will be set at from factory. Not an expensive exercise anyhow.. Ive bought all my v bands and and I've got a few manifolds to try so we're just waiting for this engine to rock up now!
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The 4L60e has been built too handle big power. The converter comeing with it as far as I know is stock. I dont want to go too higher stall because of the daily duties. would anyone reccomend?
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This makes no sense. Why put a stock converter in front of a built tranny... Torque plus load is going to fry it.
The converter is a quintessential component in a towing rig. It doesn't need to be a super high stall, but it does need to handle the torque.
The converter is a quintessential component in a towing rig. It doesn't need to be a super high stall, but it does need to handle the torque.
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While it's also another one of those very lengthy and deep subjects that can hardly be given any justice with a broad generalization... I'll give my two cents on converter stall.
Generally, a high stall (or higher than stock) allows an engine with a "larger" cam to get into it's power band. Engines which typically lack sufficient off idle torque or idle at an elevated rpm and tries to push through the brakes at a stop. Again, just a quick generalization that could be discussed in much further depth.
Being that you're building an engine for the best possible low rpm torque, you're going to want to have a converter with near stock rpm stall characteristics, whether it's aftermarket or not. Otherwise, any torque production below the stall rpm will be un(der)utilized.
However, if you find that the turbos aren't spooling up quite as soon in the rpm range as you've hoped, you can put in a converter with a stall speed closer to the rpm that the turbos spool. Which should greatly reduce the seat of the pants sensation of turbo lag.
You definitely wont be happy with a high stall converter.
Generally, a high stall (or higher than stock) allows an engine with a "larger" cam to get into it's power band. Engines which typically lack sufficient off idle torque or idle at an elevated rpm and tries to push through the brakes at a stop. Again, just a quick generalization that could be discussed in much further depth.
Being that you're building an engine for the best possible low rpm torque, you're going to want to have a converter with near stock rpm stall characteristics, whether it's aftermarket or not. Otherwise, any torque production below the stall rpm will be un(der)utilized.
However, if you find that the turbos aren't spooling up quite as soon in the rpm range as you've hoped, you can put in a converter with a stall speed closer to the rpm that the turbos spool. Which should greatly reduce the seat of the pants sensation of turbo lag.
You definitely wont be happy with a high stall converter.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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I did question this yesterday as this is no drag car build. Its all about driveability with a fair bit of weight on board. The converter was built to handle the power, while keeping the stall down closer to oem. Thats my understanding anyway. As I said, I'm not an auto guy!
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