Power on a budget!
Power on a budget! Ok so to start I'm looking for a fairly reliable set up. I plan to be able to drive this thing from Cali to Texas and back when all is said and done. The basic building block is a turbo 5.3 LM7. Depending on what I hear from you guys I might go with 241 heads or leave the 5.3 heads on since 9.5 compression isn't awful. I am from Cali so I have to run 91 octane. Realistically I would like to be at around 650rwhp.
Basics.
JY LM7 with stock heads or 241 heads depending on compression & 91 octane
Honed and crank turned.
ARP Rod bolts and studs
Bearings and rings gapped for boost
Tick performance 5.3 stage 3 turbo cam
ls6 intake
80lb injectors
400lph in tank fuel pump
4l80 trans manual valve body
3200 stall converter
7875 turbo
Thats the basics of what I have going. Any input in what I might be missing or boost levels I would need would be helpful. I know theres a lot of small stuff that I need to make it reliable but thats the start of what i'm thinking.
Basics.
JY LM7 with stock heads or 241 heads depending on compression & 91 octane
Honed and crank turned.
ARP Rod bolts and studs
Bearings and rings gapped for boost
Tick performance 5.3 stage 3 turbo cam
ls6 intake
80lb injectors
400lph in tank fuel pump
4l80 trans manual valve body
3200 stall converter
7875 turbo
Thats the basics of what I have going. Any input in what I might be missing or boost levels I would need would be helpful. I know theres a lot of small stuff that I need to make it reliable but thats the start of what i'm thinking.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
its really simple to do what you want. been done many times.
heads: stock 5.3 heads will do it no prob
cam: dont need that much cam. smaller cam would work great with the 5.3. something like a stage 2.
rods: you will have no problem making the power on stock gen 3 rods but at 650rwhp the pin has been pulled on that grenade and you are just running the clock out regardless of your tune.
now, a little bit of searching would have been rewarded with a ton of info on a 1000 similair builds and what works and what doesn't.
my recomendations are from my own personal experience.
barry
heads: stock 5.3 heads will do it no prob
cam: dont need that much cam. smaller cam would work great with the 5.3. something like a stage 2.
rods: you will have no problem making the power on stock gen 3 rods but at 650rwhp the pin has been pulled on that grenade and you are just running the clock out regardless of your tune.
now, a little bit of searching would have been rewarded with a ton of info on a 1000 similair builds and what works and what doesn't.
my recomendations are from my own personal experience.
barry
I know I know, and trust me I have read it all 1000 times. Its one of those things where I'm looking to drop 10k into the car and want to make sure I end up somewhere where I want to be. I had questions of if the cam was too big, if the turbo was too big, if mid 6's was possible on 91 octane, what kidn of boost id need to run. Just me being a worry wart.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee Wisconsin
I know I know, and trust me I have read it all 1000 times. Its one of those things where I'm looking to drop 10k into the car and want to make sure I end up somewhere where I want to be. I had questions of if the cam was too big, if the turbo was too big, if mid 6's was possible on 91 octane, what kidn of boost id need to run. Just me being a worry wart.
If you want reliability save your money and buy a gen4 engine. Gen3’s are a waste of time much above 600whp IMO. 4.8’s work VERY well and are a much better choice than a gen3 LM7 5.3. Should be able to find a gen 4 5.3-4.8 for $500-800 easy.
You don’t need any machine work done. You don’t need ANY ARP hardware, bearings, or rings. Chances are if you open up the bottom end, you’ll do more harm than good. If you buy a used motor with 100k or so on it leave the bottom end alone. Chances are It’s “pre-seasoned” for boost already.
Factory head bolts are fine, I’d use an LS9 gasket.
LS6 intakes are great, but overpriced and not needed for your goals. LS1 intake will work fine and is 1/3 the price.
Any of the LS1 cams with $60 LS6 blue springs on a 100% factory valve train will do what you are wanting easily. JFR 212/212 @ 112 cam would be my aftermarket choice on a small bore stuff with your power goals.
A “3200” stall means nothing. Call up PTC tell them what you want and have them spec a converter for you.
91 octane will be your limiting factor. Need a good IC and a good water/meth kit.
The engines the easy/cheap part at those power levels. Spend your money on fuel management, converter& trans, Rear end, and intercooling.
You don’t need any machine work done. You don’t need ANY ARP hardware, bearings, or rings. Chances are if you open up the bottom end, you’ll do more harm than good. If you buy a used motor with 100k or so on it leave the bottom end alone. Chances are It’s “pre-seasoned” for boost already.
Factory head bolts are fine, I’d use an LS9 gasket. LS6 intakes are great, but overpriced and not needed for your goals. LS1 intake will work fine and is 1/3 the price.
Any of the LS1 cams with $60 LS6 blue springs on a 100% factory valve train will do what you are wanting easily. JFR 212/212 @ 112 cam would be my aftermarket choice on a small bore stuff with your power goals.
A “3200” stall means nothing. Call up PTC tell them what you want and have them spec a converter for you.
91 octane will be your limiting factor. Need a good IC and a good water/meth kit.
The engines the easy/cheap part at those power levels. Spend your money on fuel management, converter& trans, Rear end, and intercooling.
Last edited by Forcefed86; Oct 4, 2016 at 09:18 PM.
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Launching!
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
650RWHP through a 4L80E is no joke. My LS3 put down 750RWHP through the M6. I swapped to a 4L80E and a 3600 converter and it put down 550RWHP (different days and different dynos, but you get the point). Just something to keep in mind.
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Wow I got more replies than I thought I would. Thanks in advance for the help guys. As far as safety goes I do have a 6 point cage in the car with 6LE seats and a crow racing 5 point harness. Safety was the first thing I did. So from what I have read it seems like a 7875 is a good size turbo? I will leave the bottom end alone just do Stage 2 tick cam with MLS gasket and good head bolts. My ls1 intake is all set up for the EGR **** its easier to get a LS6 and be done with it. As far as a rear end goes i'm going to be installing a hawk 8.8 rear end. I know 4l80's are mean to peak numbers but like i said its just a goal I'm looking towards.