Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Inter cooler Question

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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 07:16 PM
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Default Inter cooler Question

I have searched my question but have found no results to answer my question.

I am in the process of going from NOS BBC to LS turbo in my Fox Mustang. The car will only be used for 1/8 mile racing. The car is well built and has been fast with the NOS set up but have always wanted to try my hand with a turbo.

My question is about a air to water inter cooler. I have a CFM outlaw nose on the car so there will be no way to move enough air thru an air to air inter cooler to be effective and I don't want to cut the nose up.

Are there any ok cheaper air to water inter coolers out there or do I need to go with a Precision or higher end piece?

I'm going to start out with a stock bottom end LS 5.3 or 6.0 until we learn to tune a turbo engine. The turbo will be a Forced Induction S480. I am going to run the engine on C16 racing fuel and a FAST EFI.

If I don't have to spend the money on a top of the line ATW cooler I had rather not. If I cant get a handle on tuning the turbo set up I am going to go back to my BBC set up.
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 07:45 PM
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The cheap ones on ebay actually work very well. Quite a few people on here in the 8's with them. I am going to be building my own in a couple of months. Mostly for the experience.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 05:42 AM
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Call up Ron Shearer at Shearer Fabrications and he can make you anything to your hearts content.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 08:03 AM
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Thanks for the replies guys. I will give Ron a call.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 09:21 AM
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ive seen people use the frozen boost or whatever they are called with decent success. but if you run a quality air to air behind a closed bumper for 1/8th mile you would be fine. I ran a closed bumper on my import with a big garrett core and the tiny increase in iat was not worth cutting the bumper open for. you have to run a quality core that is sized appropriately
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 02:00 PM
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It's a race car.. A2W will bring you better results every time when setup right. My $80 China cooler which is the literal exact same thing as frozen boost got me a 15* rise from ambient on a 27lb rub in a 1/4 mile.That was with a shitty rule 2000 pump and a 5 gallon res. AND my cooler sitting behind the radiator.. They work great unless you are trying to pump 1200+HP through them.

Last edited by oscs; Oct 12, 2016 at 03:44 PM.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by oscs
It's a race car.. A2A will bring you better results every time when setup right.
I suppose you meant to say A2W?
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 93camaro_zzz
I suppose you meant to say A2W?
Whoops! Yes you are correct!
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 04:04 PM
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I want to also use the water tank to cool the engine. That is the main reason for wanting W2A. This will give me more room and more options for turbo placement. I haven't put a lot of thought into the horse power numbers until I have a chance to learn to tune it.

The big block I pulled out made just under 1100 hp before the spray. As I learn a little more about the turbo's we plan to get away from the stock bottom end and build a nice bullet. At that point I want to pull the mostly stock stuff from the race car and build a street car with it.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 04:06 PM
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I also wanted to say thanks to you guys for sharing your knowledge and builds. I spent hours reading before becoming a member and making my first post.

Last edited by BMC330; Oct 12, 2016 at 04:07 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BMC330
I also wanted to say thanks to you guys for sharing your knowledge. I spent hours reading before becoming a member and making my first post.
You're rare breed these days.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by BMC330
I want to also use the water tank to cool the engine. That is the main reason for wanting W2A. This will give me more room and more options for turbo placement. I haven't put a lot of thought into the horse power numbers until I have a chance to learn to tune it.

The big block I pulled out made just under 1100 hp before the spray. As I learn a little more about the turbo's we plan to get away from the stock bottom end and build a nice bullet. At that point I want to pull the mostly stock stuff from the race car and build a street car with it.
If you use the water tank for the intake to cool the motor, it will melt all the ice quicker and eventually the motor will warm the intake charge.

It would be best to keep these separate.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 09:49 AM
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Yeah using the water reservoir to cool the engine is really a thing that only 1/4mile pass at a time cars do. Unless you are penny pinching the weight of the car down to nothing, I would keep them seperate.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by cajundragger
If you use the water tank for the intake to cool the motor, it will melt all the ice quicker and eventually the motor will warm the intake charge.

It would be best to keep these separate.
If you do it right with valving, you can cool the engine after the pass and not while making a pass. If the water sits in the engine for an 1/8th or 1/4 mile pass it shouldn't be too hot to cause problems.

Most of the ice should be melted during the pass and if need be, more can be added to it to help facilitate cooling.

I don't have any photos of how we do ours, but we use a radiator with a single fan and use that to circulate water after a pass. If we have to cool it down in a hurry, can introduce some of the intercooler water to the engine cooling circuit (through valve/lines and the intercooler pump) We use two circuits, one for the intercooler and one for the engine. If its necessary to cool quick, short bursts of the intercooler circuit to the engine cooling circuit gets it cool in a hurry. Just don't want to introduce a ton of cold water at once, and risk thermal shocking the engine.

Granted what we did is for a dedicated race car, but when I get down to pick up the owner/driver on the golf cart, he's got the radiator pump and fan running to start cooling it down. Usually doesn't get above 125-130deg F water temp.

Last edited by a05c; Oct 13, 2016 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 04:16 PM
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I will take a look at some other options. I have a small radiator that I once ran on the NOS engine that I can use.

We also use a golf cart to move the car to staging and bring it back from the end of the track.





Originally Posted by a05c
If you do it right with valving, you can cool the engine after the pass and not while making a pass. If the water sits in the engine for an 1/8th or 1/4 mile pass it shouldn't be too hot to cause problems.

Most of the ice should be melted during the pass and if need be, more can be added to it to help facilitate cooling.

I don't have any photos of how we do ours, but we use a radiator with a single fan and use that to circulate water after a pass. If we have to cool it down in a hurry, can introduce some of the intercooler water to the engine cooling circuit (through valve/lines and the intercooler pump) We use two circuits, one for the intercooler and one for the engine. If its necessary to cool quick, short bursts of the intercooler circuit to the engine cooling circuit gets it cool in a hurry. Just don't want to introduce a ton of cold water at once, and risk thermal shocking the engine.

Granted what we did is for a dedicated race car, but when I get down to pick up the owner/driver on the golf cart, he's got the radiator pump and fan running to start cooling it down. Usually doesn't get above 125-130deg F water temp.
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