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Everything clears with slight tweaks. Had to move the radiator a few inches forward because the 4th gen fans were sitting on the cross-over pipe. Depends on your radiator/fan set up, but not a huge hurdle.
It would definitely take some fab work to get the T6 turbo to fit as the t4 turbo just barely fits with very little clearance. Luckily the 78/75 turbo will fit nicely whenever I decide to upgrade.
I have over 1000 miles and counting on the set up. Might get a chance to run it at the track at the end of the month, will drop a little more tire air pressure, remove the front sway bar and turn up the boost a few clicks.
(Pics from the track in street trim)
Okie dokie yeah I was thinking about getting just the header kit cause it's the only thing out there specifically for a 3rd Gen and use my bw s475 t6. Oh well I'll just mount it in front of the water pump. Thanks for the reply man, car looks sexy!
hey cyber, got any pics of how close the crossover pipe is to the fans? I feel like I wont have enough room for one and Thinking I could run a 2-2 1/4" cross over on mine but my fans and rad will prob be in the way still or very close.
I'll try and snap a video tonight. The kit was designed around a 3rd gen radiator and 3rd gen fans so I had to mod mine a bit(running 4th gen cooling).
Damn that's tight lol. I also feel like my motor sits farther forward and most for some reason. I could set it back but the. I would have to shorten my very expensive driveshaft.
Your running a downpipe right and no muffler or catback? How loud is the system? I'm thinking of running a fender outlet but worried it will be loud esp when the wastegate opens. Might have to put a muffler on it or something. Otherwise connecting into the stock like catback routing will make it more $$ and expensive.
It's pretty tight. I was going to mount aftermarket fans on the opposite side if I ran into issues but all has been well. With both fans on I could maintain temperature under 200 degrees on a warm day. On cool days I'm right around 190 degrees with one fan.
I have the downpipe running through a full exhaust quieted by Corsa muffler for fbodies. It's almost too quiet at idle/cruise but screams along with the turbo at WOT.
I was able to sell my coated SSW headers + custom y-pipe to cover almost half of the entire turbo kit.
It's pretty tight. I was going to mount aftermarket fans on the opposite side if I ran into issues but all has been well. With both fans on I could maintain temperature under 200 degrees on a warm day. On cool days I'm right around 190 degrees with one fan.
I have the downpipe running through a full exhaust quieted by Corsa muffler for fbodies. It's almost too quiet at idle/cruise but screams along with the turbo at WOT.
I was able to sell my coated SSW headers + custom y-pipe to cover almost half of the entire turbo kit.
Gotcha, I appreciate the video and time. Pusher fans will not work as good and those 4th gens are pretty powerful as far as CFM goes. Your only going to upgrade if you put some massive spal fans on it but expect to pay $200 for each fan and since its a pusher you can't run a shroud. I think you good. I wish CX racing would have used a smaller 2.25" crossover. I also run truck accessories so mine sticks out 3/4" farther.
Ugh thats what I want! Might have to figure out how to run the exhaust out the back of the engine and to the catback.
I wouldnt make any money on my headers, ebay RI SS headers and I coated them. Also my GT45 turbo is much larger than the one your running (housing wise).
Gotcha, I appreciate the video and time. Pusher fans will not work as good and those 4th gens are pretty powerful as far as CFM goes. Your only going to upgrade if you put some massive spal fans on it but expect to pay $200 for each fan and since its a pusher you can't run a shroud. I think you good. I wish CX racing would have used a smaller 2.25" crossover. I also run truck accessories so mine sticks out 3/4" farther.
Ugh thats what I want! Might have to figure out how to run the exhaust out the back of the engine and to the catback.
I wouldnt make any money on my headers, ebay RI SS headers and I coated them. Also my GT45 turbo is much larger than the one your running (housing wise).
You could always move the rad forward and down to get it under the rad support. That's what I did, have lots of room now for cross-over and run the exhaust out in the normal spot for a cat back.
You could always move the rad forward and down to get it under the rad support. That's what I did, have lots of room now for cross-over and run the exhaust out in the normal spot for a cat back.
I have basically already. I trimmed the top rad support and pushed the rad all the way to that bar and lowered it 1.5". I run a 19x31 Rad tho bc I like the engine temps to be controlled.
Is it magic? care to explain? I hope its not something like "seal off the front of the radiator, put a pusher fan coupled with the puller fans etc".
Not really magic. Alot of race cars do it you just don't see street car guys doin it. Forced induction guys should do it.
What i did was come off all 4 steam ports with individual -4 lines and plum them to a surge tank. Then come off the bottom of the surge tank with a 5/8 hose into the upper rad hose. Mount the surge tank high enough and put a real high pressure cap on the rad to essentially block it off and do all your filling via the surge tank.
There are other ways you could plumb it to suit your needs or fitments.
Those steam ports move alot of fluid and help keep the rear cylinders cooler. .....a must for fi guys.
This also opens up other options for radiators because you don't have to deal with the filler neck. You can size it fit into you core support area instead of behind it making for much more room vs the slanted radiator or even a verticle behind the core support.
Another thing it helps are alot of guys lower the radiator to get it to fit. When they do that they don't get the engine full of fluid and thus causing popped head gaskets.
I'm confused, none of us are having cooling issues.
BUt what you have described is just an expansion tank. A remote pressurized filler allows higher than rad mounting and thus a fully bled system. However a real expansion tank bottom is tapped into the lower rad hose and it draws fluid out of the expansion tank and the top port on the expansion tank is routed to the highest point on the radiator (over flow nipple) and you block off the rad cap with a solid rad cap. I ran one for a few years and it worked great.
but still none of us are having cooling issues and the rad cap doesnt really add much height to the overall height depending on the rad manufacture. Most front mount turbo systems with a crossover have issues with the fans, low profile dont flow squat!
He had the rear steam port lines paired. I woulda had to remove his intake to do all 4 so i didn't. But basically run the 4 steam ports to this tank separately.
Then return them to the upper rad hose via fitting on bottom of tank.
With the reputation they have for taking out the rear cylinders this is the only way i would do a boosted car. Especially with the typical fuckery that comes with moving the rad and lines around. Also ends up holding more coolant and you don't need a overflow because you leave head room in the tank.
06-12-2017, 12:26 AM
