Best ARP head stud for boost?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 76
Likes: 5
Best ARP head stud for boost? Got an all out twin turbo 347ci need to know what's the best studs to put in the block? If ya can help what part number? I was thinking about these from Bryan tooley racing?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 76
Likes: 5
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 76
Likes: 5
Callies Dragonslayer crank and ultra i beam rods, wiseco forged turbo pistons
AFR 230cc heads, BTR .660 springs, Johnson lifters, Jesel Rockers Holley Hi ram intake and EFI, Holley HP ENGINE management, twin 76-68's all going in a
2100lb 88 Cavalier 10.5 Car
So with that being said, what's the best Studs for a Gen 3 engine, because I've herd there bad about lifting heads or blowing a head gasket?
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Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
All out as in drag car... iron Block 5.3l bored out to a 5.7l (3.903)
Callies Dragonslayer crank and ultra i beam rods, wiseco forged turbo pistons
AFR 230cc heads, BTR .660 springs, Johnson lifters, Jesel Rockers Holley Hi ram intake and EFI, Holley HP ENGINE management, twin 76-68's all going in a
2100lb 88 Cavalier 10.5 Car
So with that being said, what's the best Studs for a Gen 3 engine, because I've herd there bad about lifting heads or blowing a head gasket?
Callies Dragonslayer crank and ultra i beam rods, wiseco forged turbo pistons
AFR 230cc heads, BTR .660 springs, Johnson lifters, Jesel Rockers Holley Hi ram intake and EFI, Holley HP ENGINE management, twin 76-68's all going in a
2100lb 88 Cavalier 10.5 Car
So with that being said, what's the best Studs for a Gen 3 engine, because I've herd there bad about lifting heads or blowing a head gasket?
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
If it genuinely is an all out build, then either the CA625 or go 1/2"
As CA625 requires no machining work...this would be the most convenient and apparently clamp harder than a regular 1/2" setup.
Damn they're pricey though
As CA625 requires no machining work...this would be the most convenient and apparently clamp harder than a regular 1/2" setup.
Damn they're pricey though
I recall a clamp force test done to compare the CA625 vs. the 1/2" studs. The 1/2" studs had more clamping force but it wasn't by much. Either way is wash cost wise. The price on the CA625's is astronomical, but you then have the machining bill for the 1/2" conversion.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
And when I tried to buy CA625's over a year ago....waited and got fucked about for 5 months by one vendor. Eventually cancelled and ordered from another.
Waited 3 months with them and finally gave up.
Any studs will be better than fresh air. But ease of use, if you can get them the CA625's are probably best option.
Plus....dril/tap size for a lot of the 1/2" studs is actually a little smaller than 11mm. But with a bare block the hole OD for the threads is around 11mm.
So I'd be a little concerned about base strength in the block. Perhaps more so with alloy than iron
Waited 3 months with them and finally gave up.
Any studs will be better than fresh air. But ease of use, if you can get them the CA625's are probably best option.
Plus....dril/tap size for a lot of the 1/2" studs is actually a little smaller than 11mm. But with a bare block the hole OD for the threads is around 11mm.
So I'd be a little concerned about base strength in the block. Perhaps more so with alloy than iron
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 16
From: Avon, Ohio
After that-you have to go 6 bolt.
That being said, why both spend the money? But your obviously not shy about that, so fire away! To answer your question, yes, those are the best available
Not sure what that means, but I wasn't laughing at you. The meat between the cyls on the blocks once bored that far is pretty thin. It's likely to crack between the cyls around 1000-1300 crank hp depending on how lucky you got with your block thickness.