rivers09

Got an all out twin turbo 347ci need to know what's the best studs to put in the block? If ya can help what part number? I was thinking about these from Bryan tooley racing?

MY_2K_Z

iTrader: (1)

Your going to split a sleeve before those even matter but sure why not, you can reuse them in the next motor.

rivers09

It's an iron block so you think the block will fail before these will? And do you think I will have a problem blowing head gaskets?

stevieturbo

Define "all out" ?

And isnt $570 a little pricey for standard ARP head studs ?

Most other google results come back over $100 cheaper.

03sierraslt

iTrader: (19)

The lower grade ones are cheaper. Those are the mid grades and then they have the aged 625+

stevieturbo

Yes, and they all carry different part numbers ?

rivers09

All out as in drag car... iron Block 5.3l bored out to a 5.7l (3.903)
Callies Dragonslayer crank and ultra i beam rods, wiseco forged turbo pistons
AFR 230cc heads, BTR .660 springs, Johnson lifters, Jesel Rockers Holley Hi ram intake and EFI, Holley HP ENGINE management, twin 76-68's all going in a
2100lb 88 Cavalier 10.5 Car

So with that being said, what's the best Studs for a Gen 3 engine, because I've herd there bad about lifting heads or blowing a head gasket?

svslow

At a certain power level you will begin to reach the limits of the 4 bolt clamping force. To crutch this you can use 625+ studs or have the block machined for 1/2" studs.

03sierraslt

iTrader: (19)

Yes they do. I get ya, I was just pointing out. A quick price search reveals various prices.

JoeNova

ARP custom aged studs.

stevieturbo

If it genuinely is an all out build, then either the CA625 or go 1/2"

As CA625 requires no machining work...this would be the most convenient and apparently clamp harder than a regular 1/2" setup.

Damn they're pricey though

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

I love $1500 rods in a $100 block

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

I recall a clamp force test done to compare the CA625 vs. the 1/2" studs. The 1/2" studs had more clamping force but it wasn't by much. Either way is wash cost wise. The price on the CA625's is astronomical, but you then have the machining bill for the 1/2" conversion.

stevieturbo

And when I tried to buy CA625's over a year ago....waited and got fucked about for 5 months by one vendor. Eventually cancelled and ordered from another.

Waited 3 months with them and finally gave up.

Any studs will be better than fresh air. But ease of use, if you can get them the CA625's are probably best option.

Plus....dril/tap size for a lot of the 1/2" studs is actually a little smaller than 11mm. But with a bare block the hole OD for the threads is around 11mm.

So I'd be a little concerned about base strength in the block. Perhaps more so with alloy than iron

rivers09

I went with the ARP 2000 12 point pro series got them for $455

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

$1500 dollar rods in a $100 block thats been bored .120!

IMO if you are going all out don’t waste your time with a stock block, it’s the weak link… esp after you bored the beejebus out of it.

JoeNova

I personally don't see the point of overboring a 5.3 block that you plan on throwing a ton of boost at.

rivers09

We will shall see... y'all laughing now but don't sleep on me

coltboostin

Bingo. China studs (hell, stock head bolts) have been taken to the limit of a stock block/crank and IMO the limits of reliable clamping (7s@170 3000lbs car)
After that-you have to go 6 bolt.

That being said, why both spend the money? But your obviously not shy about that, so fire away! To answer your question, yes, those are the best available

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Not sure what that means, but I wasn't laughing at you. The meat between the cyls on the blocks once bored that far is pretty thin. It's likely to crack between the cyls around 1000-1300 crank hp depending on how lucky you got with your block thickness.