truckdoug

iTrader: (26)

so I took a quick peek at your tune. basically what others have said, there is quite a bit of timing in it for a turbo motor. also the VE table needs work. do you have a log file from just driving around and rolling into it?


i have my spark heading to down around 12-13 as soon as I go above 100kPa

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

I'm a tuner. So even though I do not know the OP, it's likely my fault.
It's always the tuners fault.

Need to see an actual log of the dyno runs. That would help immensely.

I looked at the tune.

Ron

80/TA/LT1

iTrader: (2)

HEY DOUG, THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO LOOK AND GIVING ME ADVICE I REALLY APPRECIATE IT.

I DONT HAVE A DATA LOG YET AS ITS BEEN COLD AND / OR RAINING JUST ABOUT EVERYDAY. I AM HOPING TO GET ONE THIS WEEK THOUGH AS SOON AS I GET MY BRAKES SORTED AND WEATHER ALLOWS.

I'LL POST A COUPLE AS SOON AS I GET THEM FOR SURE.

THX FOR STICKING WITH MY THREAD

80/TA/LT1

iTrader: (2)

hey ron, lol, thx for chiming in.

I didn't start this thread for people to kick the tuner in the nuts, although it seems to have gone that way....

I just see others with the exact same setup making more power/ turning boost up a few more psi and don't know why i can't.

This isn't a max effort race car, just something for the street and strip that me and my son can enjoy. Don't get me wrong, i want it to be as fast as it can be but reliably.

I know i have the bottom of the barrel ebay setup and if i am expecting too much out of it, please tell me and i'll put something else together this winter as i've already been looking at the 7875 turbo and bought another 5.3 with the stronger rods

i posted because i thought it was something i had done wrong as this is the first turbo car i have built, and it may still be the case even though guys think its not.

The only thing i have from the dyno is the final printout of my last dyno run, will that help ??? If so i'll put it up no problem.

Maybe i am just getting too caught up on dyno numbers and letting them discourage me.

Maybe i should just take it to the track when it opens and see how it runs.

After all it was a mustang dyno and from what i have read, they are typically approx 50 hp or more lower than others,.... I don't know.......

Again thank you, too bad you're not closer.......

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

You're welcome.
Before you drive it, we should get that timing lower in the boost area. Like Doug said, something around 8-10 degrees is a good place to start.
Then get some logs of short spurts into boost to see what's going on.
Need air fuel data as well.
Do you have a wideband in the car? It's a must.

We can get ya going I'm sure.

ron

80/TA/LT1

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I'll get some logs ASAP, I should have the brakes done tomorrow. I'll bring the timing down too. Yes I have a wideband I have the aem uego. Thx again

stevieturbo

In this instance based on the evidence ( and lack of ) that has been provided....then yes it is fair to assume it is the tuners fault.

However....the very first question I asked and has not really been answered which is all critical here, is exactly how was this tuner determining knock ?

On the info provided....it seems they were not taking any proper measures for detecting actual knock or detonation.

So yes, the topic within this thread on the info provided is the tuners fault.

RealQuick

iTrader: (14)

did you say you are running meth?

truckdoug

iTrader: (26)

HEY WHY ARE WE YELLING

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

It's a moot point now.
Let's just help this gentleman out.

Ron

80/TA/LT1

iTrader: (2)

No meth. I wasn't yelling lol, I can't see without my glasses, caps helps

stevieturbo

And we need clarification on points to do that, as well as some testing.

The bottom line is still the same before proceeding. How was it determined that there was knock ? And if it was knock...why ? And if not, what was the person hearing ?

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

I don't think it's been mentioned, so here it is:

when I am tuning a car and have this situation... Is it knock? is it real knock? As others have said, use all available tools of course, generally we try the easiest things first (like pulling timing for example) but one of the other easiest things that is being overlooked is the fuel octane. You can change fuel octane quite easily, just pour in race fuel and go again. If the addition of a high octane fuel eliminates the suspected knock... you have evidence that it was indeed true knock.