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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 11:12 AM
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Default First FI Build

I came across a 5.3 LM7 long block for $200 (in pieces) locally, and now I've stumbled into my first turbo build.

I dropped the block and crank off at the machine shop to get checked/prepped before I move any further with forged rods and pistons. My question pertains to heads. I have a set of PRC 225 62cc as cast on my n/a build now, and a spare set of 241s completely stock laying around. At what point would a bone stock pair of 241s limit me? When would head lift become an issue with the GM casting's limited deck height? Would I be better off using the 225s with their 3/4" deck height and boosting a 10.1:1 static comp. motor? (Im planning on running e85).

Ive done a lot of searching and reading, your input is appreciated; trying not to bother the guys at TSP anymore (they've been great). Thanks in advance.
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 12:49 PM
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As long as you have springs, I would expect you to be ok with a stock set of 241's until north of 1000 WHP. I'd recommend good MLS gaskets and quality head studs, I know some people using high levels of boost with stock heads, and they overtorque the head studs by about 10 ft lbs for more clamping force. I'm not recommending this, but others have had success with it. Your PRC225's I would expect to make more power at the same boost level, as they will be less restrictive, and boost is a measure of intake restriction to a degree. No doubt the PRC 225's with the thick deck are better in about every way, but lots of people are making stock heads work well with quite a little bit of boost.
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottyBG
As long as you have springs, I would expect you to be ok with a stock set of 241's until north of 1000 WHP. I'd recommend good MLS gaskets and quality head studs, I know some people using high levels of boost with stock heads, and they overtorque the head studs by about 10 ft lbs for more clamping force. I'm not recommending this, but others have had success with it. Your PRC225's I would expect to make more power at the same boost level, as they will be less restrictive, and boost is a measure of intake restriction to a degree. No doubt the PRC 225's with the thick deck are better in about every way, but lots of people are making stock heads work well with quite a little bit of boost.
thanks for the reply. I don't have a problem believing people have made it work, I've just read a lot of stuff on here suggesting its a poor idea. Id prefer not not rip apart my n/a build, but i don't want to lift a head either.
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Old Mar 12, 2017 | 10:55 PM
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What are your goals for the build ? If I could make one suggestion , as I'm fairly new to the turbo game myself , build it big the first time because it will never be enough 😂 I started out with a nitrous ls1 z28, then built a single turbo ls1 z28 that made 609/646 at the wheels uncorrected. I'm now currently building a 370 cubic inch forged lq4, twin precision 6266's and changing just about everything in the car minus the Holley efi, suspension, and a few other minor items. Shooting for 1200 rwhp . Go big and do it once cuz once the boost bug bites, it never goes away and the route I have taken has been much more expensive then shooting for the stars to begin with!
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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Dennis5374
What are your goals for the build ? If I could make one suggestion , as I'm fairly new to the turbo game myself , build it big the first time because it will never be enough 😂 I started out with a nitrous ls1 z28, then built a single turbo ls1 z28 that made 609/646 at the wheels uncorrected. I'm now currently building a 370 cubic inch forged lq4, twin precision 6266's and changing just about everything in the car minus the Holley efi, suspension, and a few other minor items. Shooting for 1200 rwhp . Go big and do it once cuz once the boost bug bites, it never goes away and the route I have taken has been much more expensive then shooting for the stars to begin with!
i appreciate your input, but I don't have the money to fund the parts needed to support a 1000+ rwhp build, nor do I have the skill as a driver to handle that kind of hp without killing myself. I'm just having fun with the build, looking to make some good, reliable power.
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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 93Rat
i appreciate your input, but I don't have the money to fund the parts needed to support a 1000+ rwhp build, nor do I have the skill as a driver to handle that kind of hp without killing myself. I'm just having fun with the build, looking to make some good, reliable power.
You sound like a very wise man. The gaskets, the fasteners, the fuel used (you using E85 so you have got that covered) and the tune, play more of a role than what the difference in those 2 heads offer in terms of staying attached to the block. Based upon the comments above, you seem to have good sense, and are not going to try to make stupid power with it. I'm sure you'll be fine with the stock 241s.
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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottyBG
You sound like a very wise man. The gaskets, the fasteners, the fuel used (you using E85 so you have got that covered) and the tune, play more of a role than what the difference in those 2 heads offer in terms of staying attached to the block. Based upon the comments above, you seem to have good sense, and are not going to try to make stupid power with it. I'm sure you'll be fine with the stock 241s.
good to know. Looks like I'm in the market for some dual springs. Thanks again
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