Bullseye s366 t4 .88
please don't ream me ! Iam having fun learning but iam struggling to comprehend all the information.iam looking for a faster spoiling turbo to run on a 5.3 that will not be pushed to hard or see high rpms. Trying to science a turbo that runs more like an oem than a racing turbo and buy second hand on the classified for a good price. I could buy for about 600. Thanks Charlie

 

bullseye from what I can tell buys borg warner turbos and polishes the covers and puts weird looking compressor wheels on them.

it probably has a 66mm compressor wheel and a non divided flange hot side with a .88 area/radius

it says its rated to 800hp.

maybe grab it and check it out and then report back on how it runs

 

This is the turbo I am using on my mostly OEM 5.3L LSx

https://www.full-race.com/store/turb...64-5mm-1.html/

I too desire OEM-like drivability, response, reliability. The turbo supports more power than a stock 5.3L can handle for 100k miles, and I want to drive it for at least 40k miles I suppose. My goal is 450~rwhp plus or minus 50~, using a stock looking, very quiet (multiple muffler) exhaust system, and of course a $500 junkyard engine. A twin scroll style exhaust housing, thermal coating, blankets, and wrap, are all very important for reliability and response. Water injection helps keep the EGT down when it counts. Use a high quality bypass valve, and a high quality air filter, to protect the compressor so it will last.

 

nice! Thanks for the advice! Do you have a "build thread" I'd like to follow along!?

 

Is this something that is already put together? I am interested because I like where you are going with this.

Andrew

 

I know it's alot to ask but you have a respected opinion here. would you be willing to give insight on the characteristics of the turbo he's going to use and why you " like where it's going". I can't seem to put together the balance between spool/back pressure and the relationship of turbine size/compressor size.(Sounds like I don't know anything huh?)

 

This is how I choose a turbocharger for an engine based on application:


This is the compressor map for the turbo I posted, and the red dots are a 5.3L V8 with reasonable VE charted to show where the compressor will "land" at each RPM interval at the pressure ratio designated on the left (2:1 = 2 atmospheres, or about 15psi of boost at sea level). I've owned several and tuned hundreds of turbocharge engines (never an LS though) and this is the most practical way to handle "the unknown" (rare or relatively new combinations or ideas for which you cannot find many details) as it takes much of the guess work out of the build. I can see clear as day that the compressor is still a bit "too large" for a completely stock 5.3 Truck engine (anemic cam) and will give me room to grow (slight to moderate cam/head/intake work will be supported at pump gas boost levels). The compressor is capable of flowing 80~lb/min which is close to 700 rear wheel horsepower- more than a stock 5.3L should be abused with Thus, this is the largest turbo I would ever install on a stock bottom end 5.3L truck engine, with respect to the constraints of the factory rotating assembly.

 

Do you mind posting the actual matchbot link?

Andrew

 

Here is one I just made, using an anemic 5.3 VE profile, with a fairly restrictive air filter and exhaust system, to show the "OEM side" of this turbo, or what I feel like a turbo selected by an OEM manufacturer would normally look like on a stock engine of this displacement before any VE mods or turning up the boost. For example, an S15 silvia 2.0L comes factory around 240bhp, while capable of 340bhp through VE mods and increased boost on the OEM turbo by pushing it to the edge. So this is kind of my "oem variety" selection for the 5.3L truck engine, if that makes any sense, it has headroom for VE mods and increased boost while still falling within an acceptable range for both situations.


http://www.turbos.borgwarner.com/go/VE0I4V

The one I posted earlier was actually done by Geoff at Full Race, who helped me find this particular turbo. I've never purchased a brand new turbo before for myself, so it was very nice to have him correlate my plans.

 

Here is one with a cam swap, a slightly reduced redline (5500), a bit more pressure drop, still using restrictive exhaust and air filter, and an extra psi~ of boost pressure.

http://www.turbos.borgwarner.com/go/SYNV0E

Power goes up more than 100 horsepower from the VE increase alone, even though we reduced redline and made the intercooler worse, and the turbo still has another 100 in it easy left on the table. Without even knowing the specs of the stock camshaft in the truck 5.3L I already can tell you it is worth the effort to change.

 

And Geoff got back to me with his matchbot, more or less the same thing but with more VE, less exhaust restriction, less air filter restriction, and a stormy day's pressure at sea level. The reason I put so much restriction in the exhaust and air filter is because I intend to use a highly muffled system (several mufflers if necessary) and a restrictive, paper element (eventually) if possible, both for high quality filtration and to help the crankcase pressure drop during boost thanks to PCV action at the compressor inlet, due to restrictive air filter.

http://www.turbos.borgwarner.com/go/J4EQCP

I do not believe this accurate reflects the stock camshaft/VE profile so it is more for updated camshaft engines.

 

Why not the 80mm exhaust wheel? It'll still respond well and reduce back pressure.

Andrew

 

A bit confused by the graph on the very bottom that is meant to help with turbine size. Would anyone be willing to help explain. Would you be willing to explain why 80 would be good and the relationship between size and backpressure? I would appreciate it!

 

ok this is a big red flag but where in the tables are you referencing camshaft profile? And thank you for all the information you have been sharing it does really help to educate. And lastly, I had not heard mention of excessive crank case pressure and Turbos? Nor had I read about pcm at compressor inlet. Could you help me understand this also lol! Want to build my car too after all this leaves me feeling unqualified!?thanks

 

Camshaft profile affects engine VE through the RPM range. Most stock style, heavy vehicle camshafts taper VE strongly after peak torque region because they are designed to give the heavy, daily driver vehicle a strong low to mid-range torque profile and good economy, strong vacuum in that region. I adjust VE as I see fit (it is not exact, more like what I expect from the engine based on it's previous life) through the RPM range to conduct overall flow how I think the engine will behave in a worst case scenario (the minimum flow). VE stands for volumetric efficiency. When you modify parts like camshaft, head, and intake, you are hoping to gain VE somewhere, or at least shift it somewhere to suit the application.


this is advanced tuning topics, several books can be written about crankcase setup. Briefly, on a turbo engine, the only place to find pressure below atmospheric during boost is at the compressor inlet. One way to adjust the pressure in this space (between the compressor and air filter) is by adjusting air filter flow, that is, a more restrictive filter gives a lower pressure between that filter and the compressor. On a daily driver, you will desire PCV action during boost, so there is supposed to be (on all OEM turbo setups, there is, but often people neglect this when customizing a turbo install) a hose which connects the compressor inlet to the crankcase, and some form of restrictor or venturi effect in place to facilitate the pressure differential the engine desires which will pull on the crankcase during boost. This will cost some horsepower (restrictive filters cost power) but it will help keep the oil cleaner, the engine will last longer, and filtration is improved at the filter element when using high quality paper style. In other words, we give up some power in exchange for a cleaner, healthier engine, which is my number one priority, an engine setup which is equivalent to OEM and will achieve a high mileage.

 

I am pretty sure I have the 80mm exhaust wheel, and iirc its a 0.91 area/radius twin scroll housing.

https://www.full-race.com/store/turb...64-5mm-1.html/

Turbine Specifications
Turbine Type: Inconel S300SX Turbine Wheel
Turbine Wheel OD: 80mm
Housing Material: D5S sandcast

 

ok got it, the VE table and associated rpm! Of course! I assume that either manufacturers or experience allows you these numbers? You've already answered all these question iam sure but iam a slow learner sorry! Wow you really have quite a grasp on these subjects, impressive! Where are you and are you involved in motor sports? Ok so if you have any more patience, how are you meant to interpreate the final graph on the page that helps tune turbine size? Pvc went over my head. Will research lol! Thank you for your time it is greatly appreciated!

 

There have been several threads here and other sites about the new sx-e chargers from borg. They have the same size turbine 80mm but they are a full turbine wheel vs the older non sx-e s300s that have a clipped turbine. The older ones actually make more power from what everyone is reporting. So the turbo the op posted would be fine depending on his goals.

 

The linked Matchbot from Geoff shows the smaller 74mm turbine...

I adjusted his to the 80mm wheel and it improved your Engine Delta P somewhat.

http://www.turbos.borgwarner.com/go/I281Q8

Andrew

 

Personally I think a S366sxe is a better match...

http://www.turbos.borgwarner.com/go/11FQ5L

Andrew