Forge my Ls1 or build 6.0
Forge my Ls1 or build 6.0 Ok gents I took my turbo ls1 c10 truck to get dyno tuned over the weekend. Long story short my catch can was smoking pretty bad afterwards. Did a compression test yesterday and the results were not good. Cylinder #7 came in at 60#. Now I need to figure out what to build. I would like to use as much as possible from the old motor as I don't have endless funds. A local engine builder quoted me $1,500 to install new rods, pistons, honing, balancing and polishing the crank if necessary. I can subtract $250 for the polishing if it's not needed (I don't think it's needed) my tuner recommended the following
ARP main studs
Wiseco Forged -3.2cc Dished Pistons for 3.905" Bore, 3.622" Stroke, Part Number K398X3905, includes file fit GFX rings and .927" diameter pins. 1.304" compression height for 6.125" long rods.
Callies Compstar H-Beam Rods; 6.125" LT, 2.100" Rod Journal, .927" Pin
Between parts and labor it would be around $3,500. TSP has a Gen 3- 370 iron short block right around $4,000. Could I bolt everything from the Ls1 to that and be done? Are all the sensors ect the same?
Turbo is a master power T-70 with a .96 ar housing
C6 manifolds flipped upside down
Speed in Tu1 turbo cam
Pac 1218 Springs/pushrod/retainer kit
ARP main studs
Wiseco Forged -3.2cc Dished Pistons for 3.905" Bore, 3.622" Stroke, Part Number K398X3905, includes file fit GFX rings and .927" diameter pins. 1.304" compression height for 6.125" long rods.
Callies Compstar H-Beam Rods; 6.125" LT, 2.100" Rod Journal, .927" Pin
Between parts and labor it would be around $3,500. TSP has a Gen 3- 370 iron short block right around $4,000. Could I bolt everything from the Ls1 to that and be done? Are all the sensors ect the same?
Turbo is a master power T-70 with a .96 ar housing
C6 manifolds flipped upside down
Speed in Tu1 turbo cam
Pac 1218 Springs/pushrod/retainer kit
I would think the little T-70 would run out of steam pretty quick on the 370 motor. Although it should easily make the power you're looking for & spool instantly. Another option would be a built 5.3, pretty sure Thompson Motorsports has them for under $3k
Yeah that's what I'm trying to figure out. Build a 5.3 , 6.0 or freshen up the ls1 with rods and pistons in case I ever want to turn it up. Seems if I go with pistons and rods in the ls1 I'll save some money. The truck is just a cruiser and will probably never see the track. I would be happy with 500-550 whp. I just want to do it the correct way. I don't want to deal with this again.
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From: san Diego
Gen 4 shortblock (pick one) and use everything else from old engine. I'd think that's the most cost effective for you goals and would have you back running quickly. Unless you must have a forged engine.
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700fwhp here, stock 2000 shortblock. With a T70 and a goal with anything that has a 5 in front, i.e. 5xx, you don't need to forge anything. For piece of mind get a 5.3 shortblock as others said,but even that's not needed. Tune is more important than anything else.
Agreed. The tune is the most important part. You can have a forged motor with a **** tune and still melt pistons on every pass. There's a guy here in Houston that has melted number 7 five times now in a forged 408 running in the 10s But then there's guys running stock 5.3s in the 8s and 9s with now problems.
I thought about a gen 4 block but read I would have to change some electrical connections etc. Don't want to hassle with that if I don't have to. Are the cylinderwalls any different from a gen 3 to a 4? I plan on forging the bottom not sure it would make a difference, It's my understanding that the gen 4 has stronger rods and pistons but I'd take those out anyways.
Last edited by 70c10; Apr 23, 2017 at 12:59 PM.
Now that I've got the motor out I'm going to upgrade a few things so I can turn up the power. Right now Im running a 255 intank walbro with a corvette filter regulator and 60# injectors. I was looking at the walbro 450 and a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator. How much Power do you think the the 60# injectors are good for? Summit sells a gen 3 5.3 block for $300, it cost more then that to ship a complete shortblock. They also have 5.3 that is bored to a 5.7. The block that is Bored to a 5.7 says that it does not have Provisions for the power steering pump and alternator though. I thought all gen 3 5.3 blocks were the same? Is there any big advantage to boring out a 5.3 being that I'm going to boost it anyways. Do you think my speed Inc tu1 cam would do well in a 5.3?
Well guys It broke a piston. I attached a picture of the dyno graph as well. Power seems to drop off early. I'm guessing because of the broken piston. Any thoughts on what caused the break?
Last edited by 70c10; Apr 26, 2017 at 04:22 PM.