Mungface78

Just ordered the 70050 system.... Will be a while before I can test it out.

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

How are any of you guys setting up the spark tables for boost? I try to use the spark table from the BIG table as I set timing for boost map areas but I don’t have access to set that timing and send to the ECM via the handheld. All I can send is the small table and that ends at 95kpa at 5500rpms. So if I set that at 15* will that leave me with a max of 15* above 95kpa? Otherwise I have to hook my laptop to the EcM and send the tune via that way but I have no idea how to do that.

This is one one thing I miss about HP tuners.

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Well I said screw it and started it up. I tried to communicate with the ECM via the laptop in Klink mode and it kept saying error when I tried to send the data to the ECM. I’m afraid to take drive it with the stock timing tables as they are pretty high in the boosted areas. Gotta figure that out ugh.

Anyways.... I cranked her over (hasn’t started in 3 months) and started on the first crank 3s in or so. Shot up to a nice idle and great AFR. I let it warm up to 180 and the fan came on and looked at the IAC counts which were high but it settles in to the idle of like 650-675 which I was commanding 650. I shut her off and turned the idle blade screw and next start IACs went down to 5-6 which is perfect. Throttle response is decent and it’s hanging alittle but it’s only need running 15min max in park lol. My only concern is spark. At idle it was showing 0* and never really got higher than 5-8* when I’m commanding 18.8* I believe. I also thought I set the tach to 4 cylinder but apparently I didn’t so that’s why it’s reading about double in the video. I fixed the tach and the idle AFR is now in the 14:1s on the 2nd start up.

mrfleet12

That's awesome, hoping fire mine up before the end of the year..

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Thank you, I’m still trying to figure out a few things. Mainly the timing and how I make sure I’m getting the correct lower timing so I don’t pop the motor going into boost. As for some reason I can’t communicate the large timing table through the laptop, handheld and PCM. The small table on the handheld is a joke as it stops at 95kpa and 5500. I have a 12psi wastegate spring installed and this thing should hit full boost by 3k. Also for some reason the idle timing was very low like 0*-5* and I might see 14* for a split sec. seems very odd as I’m commanding 18.8*.

Here is a quick video, second start up and has less than 15min run time. I got the IAC down to 5 counts and got the tach reading accurate. Throttle response is pretty good.

Mungface78

Congrats to you sir!

Hellsx

Man...... reading all those "little" problems and no one to help is making me second this big time!! I have read pretty much everywhere that the FTech kits are "special" in their ways of operating. That they arent like most big name/usual choices as far as tuning ways.... (not that id really have a clue!), but, thats what i read... i have a few deals on HP kits that showed up lately and ive passeed on em so far still.... i keep wishing Holley will lower their prices or put a few more in/outputs in the HP unit.

Hey, at least you got it running !!!!! Huge Congrats!!!! Thats always a big moment!! Im really happy for you!!

Im sure its just a little thing about your laptop yet again. Have you maybe tried it with another machine/laptop?? (Like maybe Borrow one that has another version??)

When you call FiTech, is it easy to reach somebody?? Or if its like trying to reach someone when calling the Governement departements?? LOL!!!

Pfffff. Meanwhile, I have so much stuff to do on the Nova still, that im not really at this point yet, but i try to keep up so im ready to move if a deal pops up or for when ill finally be there!!! I was /am building the cage theses days and (doin good!!) i stopped to do a project in the house. Its now cold outside too so its costing big $$$ to heat the big shop so i try to plan my work ahead to do it a few days at a time that way i only heat it for the days when im in there...

Oh well. Glad you started yours!!! Gives me a bit of a crank! Lol!!!

Keep us posted on development!!

Lead.

MUL8NO1

iTrader: (1)

Zero FiTech wiring / schematics caused start delay due to Cam sensor wires being pinned wrong. Taking note of what signals go where at my sensor, and working backwards, found pinout issued. Simple de-pin, re-pin.

Then, with no clear markings etc for Coils Harness, i had both banks exactly backwards. Fixed one side, vehicle at least started... that firing-Side header got very warm quickly - other bank 1-4cy header was not... sooooo, Swap 1-4 with 4-1.... and boom fired up.

Tis quite rev happy given I just popped in a few engine details... and it started.

No more starting until coolant tank shows up and I install the radiator (all cooling system), fan, etc... then get to a dyno to break new motor in and time etc

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Yea, believe me... these are small problems lol. Every system has it quirks, whether its the stock stuff, Holley etc its all the same really. The only thing is the instructions and knowledge base is so minimal with the Fitech stuff that it makes it hard. Within a year or two there will be a ton of youtube videos taking all the guesswork out to setting one up.

I think I might have found all my issues were just communication issues between the laptop and the PCM.

Heres what I've found:

1.) windows 10 you need to disable the driver verification in order for the driver to install from the FItech programs.

2.) all information, instruction manual and all the driver/procal software is located in the handheld. When you download the procal software it puts it under the Fitech (86x) you will need to pick the right driver to install for the Klink to communicate. Not hard, either the 32 or the 64 or something. If you pick the wrong one it will tell you it wont work and to use the other one on that computer.

3.) An issue I was having was that I couldnt get the laptop to communicate to the PCM even tho I thought I was. Apparently both the USB powers the handheld when connected to the laptop which I knew but that you also need the handheld plugged into the power from the car side. Nothing changes on the handheld but it will allow the car to now communicate with the PCM for some reason. So that solved my one issue.

4.) When connecting to the PCM via Klink you need to plug both the power and 3.5mm jack into the handheld, as well as the USB to computer. MAke sure the key is switched on, Then put the handheld in Klink mode. Then open the procal software and make sure the Klink button is checked under calibration. Then you go under calibration and go to communicate with dash, make sure the gauges are up on the bottom of the screen, you should see them come alive (engine coolant temp, battery voltage, MAP etc) if you depress the pedal you will see the TPS sensor % sweep as you press the pedal, thats how you know your constantly connected. you can now read and send tune data to the PCM.

5.) I would recommend reading the PCM for every block of data before you edit and after you save to make sure it took.

6.) Timing tables were fun trying to figure out. I would lose the connection to the PCM via the dash on the bottom (pressing the pedal and verifying the % change) when I had the LARGE or BIG spark table open. Then when I tried to send date it would FAIL. Once i closed the table out the TPS% would work as I pressed the pedal. AFter some choice words and tons of ****** around I found that If I had the small spark table open and then opened the BIG table it would allow me to read the tune in the PCM as well as send data to the BIG table!!! Dont ask my why... it seemed to work so I sent the data and verified by reading the PCM with that table open and making sure it came back the same. I have it commanding 18* at 150kpa I believe and 13-14* at 250kpa. I could be mistaken but I will upload a pic of the table on my phone after typing this up. Make sure you set the table to 0-small spark if you want to keep timing adjustments on the handheld, or set it to 1-Big table if you want to use the large timing table (boosted areas) and will need the laptop to make all timing adjustments.

7.) make sure you close it out on the laptop and disconnect the PCM from the handheld with it still connected to the car wiring. Once disconnected from the laptop the handheld will go back to the normal menu. I would click the dash option and look at the values, remember you key ignition i still on during all this. Once your back on the dash on the handheld and see all the sensor data you want to turn the key of and wait for all the data on the dash screen to dissapear. Thats how you know its been shut down correctly.

A couple of other things i noticed is that the handheld once connected to the power cable from the PCM/car harness side it will be constantly powered (basically constant 12v source) so as long as its plugged in on the power side it will stay on. I wish they would have used a keyed 12v source. But the handheld will go into a sleep mode after being left alone for a while which is fine but i wish it would shut off completely... something about electronics running constantly leads to issues or shorter lifespan.

I also found 2 other things which in my situation was probably the culprit. The spark timing was at 0* roughly after warmed up at idle... after downloading the data from the PCM to the laptop I think it was originally set to 0.0* at idle, the jumping of 5-6* was the PCM adjusting timing to meet my desired idle. This was a communication issue as I wasn't aware of and thus didn't know the idle timing was cleared. Yet the engine still ran and idled fine at 0.0*. I also had a funky MAP reading with Engine Off Key OFF (EOKO) it was reading like 110kpa and last night messing around it was reading 112-113kpa EOKO. So i increased the Negative offset on the MAP sensor from 25 to 74 to get the 100kpa MAP reading at EOKO.

Hope this helps you guys as i was problem solving last night in the 20* weather trying to figure all this out lol.

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Well guys timing at idle according to the handheld is still 0-6* fluctuating. Verified im commanding 18.8 at idle and since I adjusted my MAP sensor value to read 100kpa EOKO that my idle vacuum now reads 11-11-5” where it’s normally pulled 13-14.5” originally and with the supercharger 5.3.

Still haven’t figured out that part of it. I might have to call into FItech after the holidays and see what they say.

Bowtiedford

iTrader: (9)

ok guys I finally bought the 70051, will be interesting as I run my car at the track so I'll see how it handles my setup. killer deal for the kit at KMJ performance 10% off, that's big considering the price lol. Black Friday gotta love

Bowtiedford

iTrader: (9)

and the only reason why I bought it was because of this forum and the help I'll be able to get if I have any questions. thanks guys

Mungface78

Awesome man!

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Still didn’t get it to work right. I found some tables that are for idle spark advance if using the big table. I edited it so it would command 18ish at idle. Made some small other changes and cranked her over. She started and died immediately. First time it’s ever done that. I kept cranking and it took a while but it started and idled but was running MUCH more rough than before. Checked timing and it was at about 10* and vacuum was down to 11-11.5” also the idle rpm was alittle higher like 750ish and I was almost at operating temp. Decided to shut it down.

Spent about 6hrs today building and engine test stand! Working out pretty good, I’d say it’s 70% done minus the electronics etc.

tonight i I decided to set it back to what it was. That spark table for idle (when commanding big table for main timing) showed 9.75 degrees across the board (whole table) so I just put it back. But if it’s commanding only 9.75 degrees and I’m seeing 0-6* then it’s yanking timing to keep my idle at the 650 mark. Maybe it should idle alittle higher like 700-750. But cam motion said it should be happy idling in the 600 range. I personally never got it to idle lower than 700-750 with HP tuners and the stock PCM. Didn’t crank it over bc it’s past midnight here but will do it tmrw.

Side note... weird *** thing with the FItech procal software. I set injector size to 60lb via the handheld and send to the ECM, verified it by reading the ECM on the handheld and the value comes back as 60.1 which is fine. I connect via the laptop and read the pcm and it says under basic setup the injectors are 89lb. Then i go to injector table and check there and it says they are 90lb. Now if I set it to 60lb and send it to the ECM and then read the ECM on the laptop it shows it as 60lb when I read it. But if I unplug the laptop and access the sizing on the handheld it shows it was 40lb lol wtf!? So what I have been doing is setting the Injector sizing only with the handheld and keeping laptop stuff just for timing and other stuff the handheld doesn’t have access too. Will report back if I make any headway.

cula8r

iTrader: (2)

First off I've subscribed to this post cause I think I'll learn from the more experienced masses here. A little background, I'm an old school SBC guy that's in the process of piecing together a 6.0L iron LS3 head and intake, normally aspirated engine for my 1st Gen Camaro swap.
Is the 70050 system a good enough system to use for this swap? From a tuning capabilities, ease of making changes to tuning and of course cost basis for my swap.
Just want to consider another option to custom wiring harness, re-flashing stock ECM, then having a engine tune from a qualified personnel.

Any input would be appreciated as I want to purchase the kit and get the Black Friday/ Cyber Monday deals that are going on.

Found this link for tuning, but its for a carb fuel injected based engines but maybe some of the theories can be applied to LS based FI.

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

not even close to the same system. The handhelds look the same but that’s as far as they go. The handheld tables are completely different as well. For example there are no boost timing and fuel tables like the TB style versions or that would just make my life way easier.

Mungface78

Have you seen anything about nitrous control while scrolling through the procal?

Joeking1025

iTrader: (1)

Can’t wait to get more input on the fitec systems !

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

honestly I haven’t. I’ve basically been though every table and haven’t seen anything related to nitrous.

BLACK-00-WS6

iTrader: (11)

I'm thinking about buying the 70050 for a twin turbo 4.8 project. Any feedback on turbo applications?