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Been a while since I updated, still only working on it about once a week but a lot has happened.
Got the harness all wired up, and got the relay box wired, just not mounted yet.
Also got the core support, Champion radiator, hoses (absolute parts store guesses but worked out), and the steam line finally connected to the radiator (missed on the fitting size for the -an fitting about 4 times)
And then there is the fun stuff for Christmas, the VS Billet 80 showed up
Originally the holes from our flange and the holes from the turbo didn't line up but one 32nd bigger drill bit did the trick. Our fault most likely because it shipped with a flange to use, but we already had a merge made.
All mocked up, looks like everything will work where we have it, now to figure out where I'm gonna sneak that exhaust through!
Drilling and tapping the pan was a bit of a hassle and as you can see from the pictures after I put the starter back on I got EXTREMELY lucky that the pan wasn't tossed in the garbage.
Also mounted the Vibrant vacuum block, gotta work on tying down the hose/making it look better.
Trick Turbo Log Update (catch can breather help needed)
Haven't updated in a while. Decided that the welds just weren't going to work on the hotside we tried to make. Went ahead and ordered a divided turbo log manifold from trick. It fits with a little shaving of the "trick" logo. I have to say this is probably my best purchase of the build....ha.
having to reclock turbo and shorten the drain line (not pictured)
I'm Having trouble figuring out what to do for a breather can, I got these proform valve covers because i liked the way they look, but there is only an oil fill hole on one side and then the two 3/8 barbs.....if im only shooting for 10psi would i just be able to run a breather can with 3/8 line? or would i need to weld on bungs? This area confuses me on what is adequate.
Been a while since I updated, still only working on it about once a week but a lot has happened.
Got the harness all wired up, and got the relay box wired, just not mounted yet.
Also got the core support, Champion radiator, hoses (absolute parts store guesses but worked out), and the steam line finally connected to the radiator (missed on the fitting size for the -an fitting about 4 times)
And then there is the fun stuff for Christmas, the VS Billet 80 showed up
Originally the holes from our flange and the holes from the turbo didn't line up but one 32nd bigger drill bit did the trick. Our fault most likely because it shipped with a flange to use, but we already had a merge made.
All mocked up, looks like everything will work where we have it, now to figure out where I'm gonna sneak that exhaust through!
Great looking build !! I'm doing a 71 C10 6.2 swap.Do you still have the part number or remember the vehicle bottom rad hose came from.It is a perfect fit.Thanks
Don't do any welding around any ECU and certainly not the Holley ECU, I remove mine before I weld anywhere on my truck.
Read a few post over the years where people thought that just unplugging the ECU is all that was needed and they ended up having to buy a new Holley ECU and since you own one you know how expensive they are.
Nice build by the way!
Originally Posted by jonesmak72
Weekend progress.
mounted up the ECU, liked this location better than up high on the floor under the dash.
it should only be affected by the high frequency (actually a high voltage pulse) start of a tig torch, and it goes really for anything with computer chips, boost controllers, bump boxes, etc
it should only be affected by the high frequency (actually a high voltage pulse) start of a tig torch, and it goes really for anything with computer chips, boost controllers, bump boxes, etc
Any welder or plasma except for gas welding obviously. It's been an issue when the first solid state parts were put on cars, All it takes is a poor ground and stray voltage can do some crazy stuff.
There was a huge thread over on Yellowbullet on the topic and quite a few people posted how they learned the hard way. Some say it shouldn't be a problem and they never disconnect anything and others have said they killed electronics at some point while welding.
I know I'm not going to chance destroying a nearly $2,000 non repairable ecu because I didn't take a few minutes to remove it from the car.
Last edited by LLLosingit; 07-21-2018 at 01:57 PM.
Right. I have had this discussion numerable times over the years. With chassis builders, engineers and other people I'd consider more knowledgeable than myself.
I agree with you on general principle, it is much easier to remove the ecu than replace it.
Do I see factory A/C on your motor and if so did you have to notch the frame ?
it is indeed factory, it’s the ctsv front accessory kit that is widely available. It was the tightest fitting to the block I could find. It would have fit without notching but I chose to shave it a bit because of where the fittings will come out. *this is alll dependent on what mounts you use* most adapter plates hit it as well
Great looking build !! I'm doing a 71 C10 6.2 swap.Do you still have the part number or remember the vehicle bottom rad hose came from.It is a perfect fit.Thanks
unforunately I don’t have the lower code, only the top. I can say it was some type of corvette hose that I cut in half.
12-26-2017, 12:34 PM
