New forged motor question?
New forged motor question? Just got my new motor running and had a question regarding my catch can. Motor has new weisco 3.905 pistons and callies compstar H beam rods. Fist thing is the thermostat won't open. Both the top and bottom hoses are cold and the temp rises fast. I think I know what I did wrong there. I didn't fill the system from the top hose, only filled the radiator. I will try that tomorrow and see what happens. Any tips on that? 2nd issue which is what got me a new motor in the first place was the catch can smoking like a chimney. Long story short broken ringland on the famous #7. Well it still smokes but no where near as bad as before. Is this normal, or should I be concerned. The machine shop did ask how much boost I was running so they could gap the rings appropriately. Could this be normal blowby because of the new rings? Let me know what you think from the video below, thanks.
Last edited by 70c10; Jul 4, 2017 at 01:53 AM.
70c10,
About the topping off of the coolant....
Pop the upper radiator hose off and fill the block/heads from there. Then pop it back onto the water pump port. Then again, top off the radiator. Then, with the radiator cap off, start it up and stand there until you see the coolant start to flow....T-stat opened.....when the level drops top it off immediately. Then stand there and wait for it to open a second time and top it off again. Do it a third time if you need to if the level keeps dropping.
Make sure you don't sit there and over heat while waiting for it to open the first time, there could be an air bubble on the engine side of the t-stat and won't ever open.
If this happens, as the engine is idling, squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses rapidly many times each, this should move the air bubble through the t-stat and allow the hot coolant to touch it so it will open. Once it opens one time......you're good, just keep topping it off as I said above.
This is also a good time to stop using Dexcool and go GREEN coolant. I did this many years ago and my engine absolutely runs cooler all around. And it stays very clean......
.
About the topping off of the coolant....
Pop the upper radiator hose off and fill the block/heads from there. Then pop it back onto the water pump port. Then again, top off the radiator. Then, with the radiator cap off, start it up and stand there until you see the coolant start to flow....T-stat opened.....when the level drops top it off immediately. Then stand there and wait for it to open a second time and top it off again. Do it a third time if you need to if the level keeps dropping.
Make sure you don't sit there and over heat while waiting for it to open the first time, there could be an air bubble on the engine side of the t-stat and won't ever open.
If this happens, as the engine is idling, squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses rapidly many times each, this should move the air bubble through the t-stat and allow the hot coolant to touch it so it will open. Once it opens one time......you're good, just keep topping it off as I said above.
This is also a good time to stop using Dexcool and go GREEN coolant. I did this many years ago and my engine absolutely runs cooler all around. And it stays very clean......
.
70c10,
About the topping off of the coolant....
Pop the upper radiator hose off and fill the block/heads from there. Then pop it back onto the water pump port. Then again, top off the radiator. Then, with the radiator cap off, start it up and stand there until you see the coolant start to flow....T-stat opened.....when the level drops top it off immediately. Then stand there and wait for it to open a second time and top it off again. Do it a third time if you need to if the level keeps dropping.
Make sure you don't sit there and over heat while waiting for it to open the first time, there could be an air bubble on the engine side of the t-stat and won't ever open.
If this happens, as the engine is idling, squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses rapidly many times each, this should move the air bubble through the t-stat and allow the hot coolant to touch it so it will open. Once it opens one time......you're good, just keep topping it off as I said above.
This is also a good time to stop using Dexcool and go GREEN coolant. I did this many years ago and my engine absolutely runs cooler all around. And it stays very clean......
.
About the topping off of the coolant....
Pop the upper radiator hose off and fill the block/heads from there. Then pop it back onto the water pump port. Then again, top off the radiator. Then, with the radiator cap off, start it up and stand there until you see the coolant start to flow....T-stat opened.....when the level drops top it off immediately. Then stand there and wait for it to open a second time and top it off again. Do it a third time if you need to if the level keeps dropping.
Make sure you don't sit there and over heat while waiting for it to open the first time, there could be an air bubble on the engine side of the t-stat and won't ever open.
If this happens, as the engine is idling, squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses rapidly many times each, this should move the air bubble through the t-stat and allow the hot coolant to touch it so it will open. Once it opens one time......you're good, just keep topping it off as I said above.
This is also a good time to stop using Dexcool and go GREEN coolant. I did this many years ago and my engine absolutely runs cooler all around. And it stays very clean......
.
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Verdad Gallardo Take your oil fill cap off....see if any air is puffing out of it while its idling. Give it a rev too and see if that causes air to puff out. If puffs of air do puff out that usually means a broken ring.
You can also try to pull the PCV vacuum line off the intake vacuum port and cap the vacuum port off. See if that same smoke comes out of the oil filler neck with the cap off. If its stops coming out you have a bad PCV valve thats stuck open.
.
You can also try to pull the PCV vacuum line off the intake vacuum port and cap the vacuum port off. See if that same smoke comes out of the oil filler neck with the cap off. If its stops coming out you have a bad PCV valve thats stuck open.
.
I have no PCV at all right now. Both valve covers are vented to a mighty mouse catch can only. Forgot to mention my set up.
The smoke looks more like steam to me as is goes away pretty fast and its not blue which is oil smoke. You dont have any puffing, its pretty steady. I think you are building condensation in the engine when it cools down and its being burned off. My new engine did the same thing and had about the same amount you are having. It quit after getting it on the road and putting some miles on it. My ring gaps are pretty big as well. I wouldnt worry unless it gets worse or turns blue from oil. You can also try removing the oil fillc ap as mentioned above to check another location.
Take your oil fill cap off....see if any air is puffing out of it while its idling. Give it a rev too and see if that causes air to puff out. If puffs of air do puff out that usually means a broken ring.
You can also try to pull the PCV vacuum line off the intake vacuum port and cap the vacuum port off. See if that same smoke comes out of the oil filler neck with the cap off. If its stops coming out you have a bad PCV valve thats stuck open.
.
You can also try to pull the PCV vacuum line off the intake vacuum port and cap the vacuum port off. See if that same smoke comes out of the oil filler neck with the cap off. If its stops coming out you have a bad PCV valve thats stuck open.
.
The smoke looks more like steam to me as is goes away pretty fast and its not blue which is oil smoke. You dont have any puffing, its pretty steady. I think you are building condensation in the engine when it cools down and its being burned off. My new engine did the same thing and had about the same amount you are having. It quit after getting it on the road and putting some miles on it. My ring gaps are pretty big as well. I wouldnt worry unless it gets worse or turns blue from oil. You can also try removing the oil fillc ap as mentioned above to check another location.
When will you take it for its first drive? 20-30 min drive will burn all the moisture that might be present in the crank case.
.
Last edited by LS6427; Jul 4, 2017 at 03:28 PM.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 48
Ive had more than one motor do that, and they were perfectly fine.... no busted rings. The one in my car right now does it..... it's fine. Now if it was like his other vid.... then there's a problem, but his new motor vid is nothing to worry about.
