Ceramic coating with wrap
We got a 2010 Camaro single turbo with a Huron kit in the shop last week. Purchased off eBay. Came from Florida. We are in Oregon.
Whoever assembled it semi wrapped the manifolds and crossover with **** wrap. No wrap on the downpipe. So instead of properly wrapping the pipes, they tried to protect everything else with **** heat tape, socks etc. had to laugh when I noted they used nylon zip ties to hold things on.......
I was just going to dyno tune it as it ran poorly. But after looking it over, I determined it to be a fire hazard!
after removing everything, I found AC lines burned to a crisp, wire looms melted, heater hoses melted, fuel lines right up against the manifold etc.
So I get to rebuild everything. I've no clue what the manifolds etc are made of but they are getting wrapped and everything I can move will be.
Ron
Whoever assembled it semi wrapped the manifolds and crossover with **** wrap. No wrap on the downpipe. So instead of properly wrapping the pipes, they tried to protect everything else with **** heat tape, socks etc. had to laugh when I noted they used nylon zip ties to hold things on.......
I was just going to dyno tune it as it ran poorly. But after looking it over, I determined it to be a fire hazard!
after removing everything, I found AC lines burned to a crisp, wire looms melted, heater hoses melted, fuel lines right up against the manifold etc.
So I get to rebuild everything. I've no clue what the manifolds etc are made of but they are getting wrapped and everything I can move will be.
Ron
We got a 2010 Camaro single turbo with a Huron kit in the shop last week. Purchased off eBay. Came from Florida. We are in Oregon.
Whoever assembled it semi wrapped the manifolds and crossover with **** wrap. No wrap on the downpipe. So instead of properly wrapping the pipes, they tried to protect everything else with **** heat tape, socks etc. had to laugh when I noted they used nylon zip ties to hold things on.......
I was just going to dyno tune it as it ran poorly. But after looking it over, I determined it to be a fire hazard!
after removing everything, I found AC lines burned to a crisp, wire looms melted, heater hoses melted, fuel lines right up against the manifold etc.
So I get to rebuild everything. I've no clue what the manifolds etc are made of but they are getting wrapped and everything I can move will be.
Ron
Whoever assembled it semi wrapped the manifolds and crossover with **** wrap. No wrap on the downpipe. So instead of properly wrapping the pipes, they tried to protect everything else with **** heat tape, socks etc. had to laugh when I noted they used nylon zip ties to hold things on.......
I was just going to dyno tune it as it ran poorly. But after looking it over, I determined it to be a fire hazard!
after removing everything, I found AC lines burned to a crisp, wire looms melted, heater hoses melted, fuel lines right up against the manifold etc.
So I get to rebuild everything. I've no clue what the manifolds etc are made of but they are getting wrapped and everything I can move will be.
Ron
I figured the factory didn't wrap them so there shouldn't be anything close enough to get fried regarding the manifold heat.
I have yet to fry anything as well and I'll tell you what , the passenger side pipe runs right next to my AC compressor and the down pipe is very close to my rack and pinion.
If I hadn't wrapped them stuff would be melted by now especially with the long drives I take.
I would've coated it too but I didn't have the funds for it and I don't think it would've made that much more difference.
I get not wanting to wrap for fear of cracking but that pales in comparison to the car catching fire lol.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
There is no reason anything should catch fire, unless you put flammable stuff near the hot parts.
And of the cars I've seen go on fire...the cause is usually ATF getting onto a wrapped manifold and bursting into flames.
Wrap is dangerous in that respect.
And of the cars I've seen go on fire...the cause is usually ATF getting onto a wrapped manifold and bursting into flames.
Wrap is dangerous in that respect.
Just curious what kind of under the hood temps you came up with. I am just finishing up with at 72 C10, 5.3 Turbo install and I am concerned about the same thing.
I ceramic coated everything as well and I also wrapped my crossover pipe which runs below the engine.
I am leaning toward wrapping the down pipe now, but I really hate to. That stuff is just really messy.
I ceramic coated everything as well and I also wrapped my crossover pipe which runs below the engine.
I am leaning toward wrapping the down pipe now, but I really hate to. That stuff is just really messy.
Just curious what kind of under the hood temps you came up with. I am just finishing up with at 72 C10, 5.3 Turbo install and I am concerned about the same thing.
I ceramic coated everything as well and I also wrapped my crossover pipe which runs below the engine.
I am leaning toward wrapping the down pipe now, but I really hate to. That stuff is just really messy.
I ceramic coated everything as well and I also wrapped my crossover pipe which runs below the engine.
I am leaning toward wrapping the down pipe now, but I really hate to. That stuff is just really messy.
After a few short trips in the truck this weekend I think I'm going to wrap all of the hot side parts except the manifolds. I have a 160 T-Stat and the 1st fan is set to come on at 180, not sure about the 2nd but it does come on and stays on. While driving around the temp is around 200-210 it seems with both fans on. When I open the hood it feels like it's a thousand degrees in there. You can hardly stand over the engine bay until it cools down.
Headers cracking are typically due to too thin of metal in the primaries, corrosive environment with or without wrap, and using the primaries to support unnecessary weight.
Personally on my cars, over 200k combined miles daily driven and raced with ceramic coat and header wrap. Re-did wrap job at 50k intervals just to check on things and no more wear than customers who didn't have wrap over ceramic. Those were typical fiberglass type wraps using largest width possible. All wraps were sprayed with black hi-temp silicone rattle can stuff after initial curing process.
Personally on my cars, over 200k combined miles daily driven and raced with ceramic coat and header wrap. Re-did wrap job at 50k intervals just to check on things and no more wear than customers who didn't have wrap over ceramic. Those were typical fiberglass type wraps using largest width possible. All wraps were sprayed with black hi-temp silicone rattle can stuff after initial curing process.
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Verdad Gallardo Headers cracking are typically due to too thin of metal in the primaries, corrosive environment with or without wrap, and using the primaries to support unnecessary weight.
Personally on my cars, over 200k combined miles daily driven and raced with ceramic coat and header wrap. Re-did wrap job at 50k intervals just to check on things and no more wear than customers who didn't have wrap over ceramic. Those were typical fiberglass type wraps using largest width possible. All wraps were sprayed with black hi-temp silicone rattle can stuff after initial curing process.
Personally on my cars, over 200k combined miles daily driven and raced with ceramic coat and header wrap. Re-did wrap job at 50k intervals just to check on things and no more wear than customers who didn't have wrap over ceramic. Those were typical fiberglass type wraps using largest width possible. All wraps were sprayed with black hi-temp silicone rattle can stuff after initial curing process.
I think that I am going to do the same thing, but I hate to, because I just don't like the way it looks.
But I am with you, when you open the hood it is HOT.
yeah I love the way my engine bay looks now, but at this point it has to be functional over looks. I picked up the wrap last night. Tonight I will drive it around and get it up to operating temp take some readings, then wrap and repeat. I will post up the results when I'm done. Not sure I'll finish wrapping tonight though. This is just a weekend driver.
I had already wrapped my crossover pipe, but nothing else.
I saw where On3 had a downpipe blanket for their kit listed on their sight. Looking at it, it looks like it may work with mine, but they don't have any in stock and say the won't for probably 6 weeks.
Looks like I'll be wrapping mine this weekend as well.
I saw where On3 had a downpipe blanket for their kit listed on their sight. Looking at it, it looks like it may work with mine, but they don't have any in stock and say the won't for probably 6 weeks.
Looks like I'll be wrapping mine this weekend as well.
I had already wrapped my crossover pipe, but nothing else.
I saw where On3 had a downpipe blanket for their kit listed on their sight. Looking at it, it looks like it may work with mine, but they don't have any in stock and say the won't for probably 6 weeks.
Looks like I'll be wrapping mine this weekend as well.
I saw where On3 had a downpipe blanket for their kit listed on their sight. Looking at it, it looks like it may work with mine, but they don't have any in stock and say the won't for probably 6 weeks.
Looks like I'll be wrapping mine this weekend as well.
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 41
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Thats disappointing. My headers are being wrapped as we speak. I will have an additional data point to add next week. As a prelim test (b4 wrap), I used the thermo-tec heat shield blankets to "block" off the exhaust manifold heat and I was able to reduce underhood temps by about 30 degrees.
On a recent trip (20 mins on the road) after wrapping coolant lines, addt'l heat shielding and adding undertray back to vehicle.
Ambient: 68
IAT1: 130
IAT2: 53
Before the changes, best I could get was:
Ambient: 85
IAT1: 160
IAT2: 95-105
I am expecting better with header wrap and CAI/Heat shield above turbo inlet
On a recent trip (20 mins on the road) after wrapping coolant lines, addt'l heat shielding and adding undertray back to vehicle.
Ambient: 68
IAT1: 130
IAT2: 53
Before the changes, best I could get was:
Ambient: 85
IAT1: 160
IAT2: 95-105
I am expecting better with header wrap and CAI/Heat shield above turbo inlet
Looking for same angle as first picture with current wrap.
Under side picture of engine bay from the floor to see what's routed where and any splash trays you may have.
Complete engine bay from either side.
What I'm looking for is where air travels once it passes through your radiator. Heat will build up substantially without enough air flow. If you read before and after temps with an IR temp gun than that's a very different issue.
After wrapping hot pipes (with or without ceramic coat) I can hold my hand a couple inches from pipes after a run and it feels hot but not like sticking your hand in an oven. In fact I've bumped into them and didn't get burned. My wrap jobs are typically 2" wrap at 25-30% overlap pulled tight as possible. Soaking wrap in a bucket of water helps stretch it tighter.
Are you using a temp gun with adjustable emissivity? If not, that may explain your temps not changing much. I see around 100 degrees difference on a bare pipe to a wrapped pipe before heat soak on my set-up. The biggest change was a turbo blanket where I see 700 degrees on the bare housing vs. 200 on the blanket.
Can you share a few more pictures?
Looking for same angle as first picture with current wrap.
Under side picture of engine bay from the floor to see what's routed where and any splash trays you may have.
Complete engine bay from either side.
What I'm looking for is where air travels once it passes through your radiator. Heat will build up substantially without enough air flow. If you read before and after temps with an IR temp gun than that's a very different issue.
After wrapping hot pipes (with or without ceramic coat) I can hold my hand a couple inches from pipes after a run and it feels hot but not like sticking your hand in an oven. In fact I've bumped into them and didn't get burned. My wrap jobs are typically 2" wrap at 25-30% overlap pulled tight as possible. Soaking wrap in a bucket of water helps stretch it tighter.
Looking for same angle as first picture with current wrap.
Under side picture of engine bay from the floor to see what's routed where and any splash trays you may have.
Complete engine bay from either side.
What I'm looking for is where air travels once it passes through your radiator. Heat will build up substantially without enough air flow. If you read before and after temps with an IR temp gun than that's a very different issue.
After wrapping hot pipes (with or without ceramic coat) I can hold my hand a couple inches from pipes after a run and it feels hot but not like sticking your hand in an oven. In fact I've bumped into them and didn't get burned. My wrap jobs are typically 2" wrap at 25-30% overlap pulled tight as possible. Soaking wrap in a bucket of water helps stretch it tighter.
Can you share a few more pictures?
Looking for same angle as first picture with current wrap.
Under side picture of engine bay from the floor to see what's routed where and any splash trays you may have.
Complete engine bay from either side.
What I'm looking for is where air travels once it passes through your radiator. Heat will build up substantially without enough air flow. If you read before and after temps with an IR temp gun than that's a very different issue.
After wrapping hot pipes (with or without ceramic coat) I can hold my hand a couple inches from pipes after a run and it feels hot but not like sticking your hand in an oven. In fact I've bumped into them and didn't get burned. My wrap jobs are typically 2" wrap at 25-30% overlap pulled tight as possible. Soaking wrap in a bucket of water helps stretch it tighter.
Looking for same angle as first picture with current wrap.
Under side picture of engine bay from the floor to see what's routed where and any splash trays you may have.
Complete engine bay from either side.
What I'm looking for is where air travels once it passes through your radiator. Heat will build up substantially without enough air flow. If you read before and after temps with an IR temp gun than that's a very different issue.
After wrapping hot pipes (with or without ceramic coat) I can hold my hand a couple inches from pipes after a run and it feels hot but not like sticking your hand in an oven. In fact I've bumped into them and didn't get burned. My wrap jobs are typically 2" wrap at 25-30% overlap pulled tight as possible. Soaking wrap in a bucket of water helps stretch it tighter.
Last edited by 70c10; Aug 8, 2017 at 01:30 PM.