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Ceramic coating with wrap

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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 01:24 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 70c10
here are a couple more pictures on the engine bay.
..all that space
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 02:45 PM
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Wrap job itself looks well done. Looks like you have e-fans to keep pulling fresh air into the bay as well.

There seems to be a small gap between inner fender and firewall, can't tell if its big enough to flow enough back down the firewall and under your truck. Perhaps some well placed air dams will accelerate flow through the bay. Air dams are extremely effective when placed correctly.

Is the motor getting hot or just the engine bay? How's she running overall compared to similar setups? (overheating, running rich, running lean, boost spikes or surges, slow to spool, low on power, pulling timing, etc) Just looking for odd things that might point us in the right direction.
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by imma_stocker
Wrap job itself looks well done. Looks like you have e-fans to keep pulling fresh air into the bay as well.

There seems to be a small gap between inner fender and firewall, can't tell if its big enough to flow enough back down the firewall and under your truck. Perhaps some well placed air dams will accelerate flow through the bay. Air dams are extremely effective when placed correctly.

Is the motor getting hot or just the engine bay? How's she running overall compared to similar setups? (overheating, running rich, running lean, boost spikes or surges, slow to spool, low on power, pulling timing, etc) Just looking for odd things that might point us in the right direction.
Motor isn't overheating just seems to be running hotter then it should. Yes the engine bay is Hot as well. I've never had a turbo vehicle so I'm not sure what to expect heat wise in the engine bay.
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 06:01 PM
  #44  
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A working turbine glows red hot.... look up the temps for "red hot" and you'll be amazed. Actual temps will vary by application and duty, insanely hot regardless.
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 09:57 PM
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Getting there, little by little. Revised temps post cooling mods (best temps after 3 hr cruise):


- Header Surface temp: ~350*, did get as high as 500 after engine bay got heat soaked and car is admittedly running super rich but down from 6-700*+.
- Underhood Surface Heat (at Reg engine temps/idle): 130, down from 160*+
- IAT1 ~ 127*, down from (150-160*+)
- Eng Bay Ambient Temp:~120-130, down from 150*+
- Actual Ambient: 80* (in screenshot after long cruise

Mods: turbo blankets for low mount turbos, wrapping headers, wrapping A2W coolant lines.

Need to figure out how to shield inlet pipe (or vent) from heat entering engine bay from radiator and add air filter heat shields.

Setup: 427 ERL w/twin 6870's (Gen 2 CTS V)
Attached Thumbnails Ceramic coating with wrap-img_1797.jpg   Ceramic coating with wrap-img_1813.jpg  
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by EarlH
Need to figure out how to shield inlet pipe (or vent) from heat entering engine bay from radiator and add air filter heat shields.

Setup: 427 ERL w/twin 6870's (Gen 2 CTS V)
What do you mean by this?
Good results so far.
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by imma_stocker
What do you mean by this?
Good results so far.
The turbos are low/mid mount. The turbo filter inlet is positioned right under a 4" collector. Although wrapped, it gets plenty hot from road heat/exhaust radiant heat/and poor airflow.

RE: inlet...on Gen 2 V's, the cold air charge pipe (leading to TB/Intake) sits just above and behind the radiator fans and one fairly larger radiator hose...blowing 180* air/180* coolant right at it. This causes heat soak as there isn't sufficient ventilation even with heat extractor hood.
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 12:12 PM
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I went through the same process a couple weeks ago. Pointing the heat gun at the headers showed about the same unwrapped and wrapped. The Big difference is holding your hand 1" away. Radiant heat after was way lower. Wrapping coupled with better fans eliminated hot idle conditions.

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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by EarlH
The turbos are low/mid mount. The turbo filter inlet is positioned right under a 4" collector. Although wrapped, it gets plenty hot from road heat/exhaust radiant heat/and poor airflow.

RE: inlet...on Gen 2 V's, the cold air charge pipe (leading to TB/Intake) sits just above and behind the radiator fans and one fairly larger radiator hose...blowing 180* air/180* coolant right at it. This causes heat soak as there isn't sufficient ventilation even with heat extractor hood.
Ah gotcha, yea pulling in hot air does impact performance. In my experience the most noticeable effect is spool time and crossing boost threshold. IAT slight increase didn't affect performance since I was running straight methanol injection with a big nozzle.

Heard the reflective tape on charge pipes has good results, looks very track ready or ricer depending on setups. Personally put my hands on a road course track car with it, looked ricey but driver/owner said it really helped hot lapping. I'm about function first and looks when absolutely necessary, might try it on my next setup.

Also heard some sort of heat reflective coating on outside of charge pipes has benefit. Have zero experience there but my black wrinkle power coated charge pipes get very warm very quickly and don't cool off like my old bare aluminum. And intercooler coatings have no positive effect AFAIK.
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Old Aug 11, 2017 | 06:35 AM
  #50  
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Has anyone just tried to mount some type of small fan either up high, above their down pipe to push or down low to pull some of that hot air out of the engine compartment?


70C10 I was worried about the paint on the hood of my C10, so I installed an ABS hood insulation kit. It looks clean, but I don't think that it's going to hold up to the heat. It claims to be heat resistant, but it is already starting to deform directly about the turbo with probably less than 100 miles on my truck since I installed it.
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Old Aug 11, 2017 | 03:26 PM
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I used the VHT 2000 paint and primer, followed the oven curing instructions and its holding up well from what I can tell by the exposed parts and manifolds.

90% of the system is coated and wrapped
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Old Aug 11, 2017 | 07:49 PM
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Water injection (100% Distilled) can be used to reduce overall exhaust temperatures when necessary. Water is very cheap. I set it up using the normal progressive methods- but I also install a button I can manually press to activate the system, getting a reduction in EGT (and everything along with it in the process) whenever I want, even sitting at a light. Look down, "oh look 900*F at the turbine right now after that last little run?" tap the button and watch it drop to 600*F while sitting in traffic at a stoplight. Light turns green and I got rid of all that excess temp rise, ready to do it again. Remember that insulation keeps the temp INSIDE the pipes, where it gets even hotter now that you have reduced the radiating ability.
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Old May 17, 2021 | 07:25 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by LS6427
There's a long thread on here about this subject. It seems the best thing is to do both. Some guys just spray the headers with BBQ grill heat spray paint, then wrap them.

You already have ceramic coating....so just wrap them now.

.
Because i tried that it looks great and the temperature decreased
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Old May 18, 2021 | 02:27 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Twinturbo2002
Because i tried that it looks great and the temperature decreased
Exactly, the simplest and easiest things are usually the best.
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