Ceramic coating with wrap
There seems to be a small gap between inner fender and firewall, can't tell if its big enough to flow enough back down the firewall and under your truck. Perhaps some well placed air dams will accelerate flow through the bay. Air dams are extremely effective when placed correctly.
Is the motor getting hot or just the engine bay? How's she running overall compared to similar setups? (overheating, running rich, running lean, boost spikes or surges, slow to spool, low on power, pulling timing, etc) Just looking for odd things that might point us in the right direction.
There seems to be a small gap between inner fender and firewall, can't tell if its big enough to flow enough back down the firewall and under your truck. Perhaps some well placed air dams will accelerate flow through the bay. Air dams are extremely effective when placed correctly.
Is the motor getting hot or just the engine bay? How's she running overall compared to similar setups? (overheating, running rich, running lean, boost spikes or surges, slow to spool, low on power, pulling timing, etc) Just looking for odd things that might point us in the right direction.
- Header Surface temp: ~350*, did get as high as 500 after engine bay got heat soaked and car is admittedly running super rich but down from 6-700*+.
- Underhood Surface Heat (at Reg engine temps/idle): 130, down from 160*+
- IAT1 ~ 127*, down from (150-160*+)
- Eng Bay Ambient Temp:~120-130, down from 150*+
- Actual Ambient: 80* (in screenshot after long cruise
Mods: turbo blankets for low mount turbos, wrapping headers, wrapping A2W coolant lines.
Need to figure out how to shield inlet pipe (or vent) from heat entering engine bay from radiator and add air filter heat shields.
Setup: 427 ERL w/twin 6870's (Gen 2 CTS V)
RE: inlet...on Gen 2 V's, the cold air charge pipe (leading to TB/Intake) sits just above and behind the radiator fans and one fairly larger radiator hose...blowing 180* air/180* coolant right at it. This causes heat soak as there isn't sufficient ventilation even with heat extractor hood.
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RE: inlet...on Gen 2 V's, the cold air charge pipe (leading to TB/Intake) sits just above and behind the radiator fans and one fairly larger radiator hose...blowing 180* air/180* coolant right at it. This causes heat soak as there isn't sufficient ventilation even with heat extractor hood.
Heard the reflective tape on charge pipes has good results, looks very track ready or ricer depending on setups. Personally put my hands on a road course track car with it, looked ricey but driver/owner said it really helped hot lapping. I'm about function first and looks when absolutely necessary, might try it on my next setup.
Also heard some sort of heat reflective coating on outside of charge pipes has benefit. Have zero experience there but my black wrinkle power coated charge pipes get very warm very quickly and don't cool off like my old bare aluminum. And intercooler coatings have no positive effect AFAIK.
70C10 I was worried about the paint on the hood of my C10, so I installed an ABS hood insulation kit. It looks clean, but I don't think that it's going to hold up to the heat. It claims to be heat resistant, but it is already starting to deform directly about the turbo with probably less than 100 miles on my truck since I installed it.
90% of the system is coated and wrapped







