customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Hello guys!

I got my 5.3 LS swapped and running in my 87 TA. Im running a torqstorm centri pushing 10-11psi, it sports a custom cam 218/228 and ported stock heads. I'm currently running a large CX racing A2W intercooler, 44mm BOV, 750ml Shot of 50/50 meth/water for intercooling. My A2W setup is a 1 gallon surge tank that feeds a davis craig EBP 40 with 3/4" lines into a large dual pass heat exchanger that goes into the intercooler and back to the surge tank. Air is bled via an expansion tank thats 1qt. I put total capacity around 2-3gallons.

I run this car only on the street and only when its warm but I drive the **** out of it. When I say warm I mean NJ summers 75-105*F and humid like florida. I monitor IAT temps via a glowshift dual intake temp gauge which shows me pre IC temp and after intercooler (after my meth nozzle so I can see it activate). My Current IATs arent bad at all usually lower than 130*F when pre IC are 150-170*F.

My EBP40 is new and it seems to be working (runs with the key on) but wanted to bump the pressure/flow a bit. I've thought about running a 2nd pump in series. I know adding another pump in series will double the pressure and increase the flow like 25%. If I run the 13/14 GT500 pierburg CWA50 pump in my original pumps location below the reservior that I could add the EBP 40 after my heat exchanger and going into the intercooler. I can't really increase capacity anymore so I think all i can do is add flow.

Thoughts?

transam69230

iTrader: (49)

Need more capacity, not sure how much additional flow is going to help you to be honest.

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

3 gallons is more than most OE setups no? Only thing I can think of is putting a rear tank in of like 3-5 gallons and run that to this front tank. And just circulate it through both tanks? The EBP 40 is capable of 37 litre/min and 12.35psi head pressure. But the CWA50 pump is capable of slightly more flow and more pressure but word is you can't run them at 100% without a special controller so I would put output at around 40 liters a min.

I still think that the rear tank water will just eventually heat up... it will just take a bit longer.

jimmyg

Put fans on heat x and run distilled water, anti freeze 70/30 with water wetter. Also try to get the blower some cooler air.

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the response.

I guess I forgot to add those things have already been completed.

Heat exchanger uses an additional 11" SPAL pusher fan. The intercooler system uses 70/30 coolant distilled water mix with water wetter already. I like to get it to about -10 as we get close to that in winter here.

Only way to get cooler air to the blower it to route the filter into the fender... and that would be ALOT of cutting and more bends which I dont want to do. I did build a heat sheild for it to block heat from the headers and the headers are ceramic coated.

Maybe I'm over thinking this. But on my way home yesterday (160ish engine temp and like 10 min into her running) I was seeing 120-130*F charge temps out of the supercharger before the intercooler and 90*F out (meth had not been activated yet). Ambient temps were like 70ish degrees.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Would be a cool test and pretty cheap and easy to do. I say try it.

Also just a thought, but why run the system all the time? Wouldn’t it heat up the water less if you only ran the pump in boost? Or say over 50% TPS or something? I’d think circulating it all the time would just add heat to the system in a daily driver configuration. If you used a larger reservoir and only activated the pump(s) when in boost, I’d think it would cool the charge more efficiently. While cruising hotter air is better for fuel atomization anyway.

Also if the IC pumps were only on for short bursts, you wouldn’t need that special controller. Same with things like your fans or heat exchanger... which could probably be removed.

My friends truck uses a 5 gallon igloo cooler in his setup. It only circulates the water in boost and cools the charge down to around ambient. No separate fluid heat exchangers in the system. AS long as you aren’t in boost constantly, the water in the 5 gal tank stays relatively cool.

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

I would agree to most of that. I did test the IC pump only running in boost. I had purchased a programable time delay relay. Had it set to come on when I hit boost and activated when my meth activated via the TPS sensor. They relay would activate and keep the pump running for 90 seconds and then shut off and wait to be activated again. What I found was I had slightly cooler temps when it ran constantly.

The issue i'm finding is that my supercharger makes boost so easily that I can be in boost below 2k. So when i'm on the street if I goose it like more than 1/3 the pedal I'm in boost and I'm creating heat. So I feel like its always getting hot and thats why the pump being on all the time helps more. And since I drive the car aggressively (always goosing it when I have the chance) it seems to always be in boost. IAT temps will drop if I'm cruising and have the converter locked, otherwise the 2400stall is always stalling and i'm creating heat.

I didn't want to run a rear mount tank but I'm limited by how much I can carry in the engine bay.