I just bought a car that was 98 miles away. They where PISSED lol.
SCT carnage....(pics and video)
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TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2015
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Oh I am. After the very brief time that it pulled yesterday, I've decided that I really need to beef up the drivetrain. I've seen it said that the stock input shaft/forward drum can support 1,000hp, but knowing my luck it will let go (now that I'm hooking) even though I'm about 250 under that. Personally, I think it's more a function of torque that is the hardest on parts, but for whatever reason... it seems most things are rated in terms of horsepower instead of torque. That's one of the main reasons I didn't spring for the billet piece the first time... didn't think the motor made enough power to justify it. With all that said, I agree with your suggestion.
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TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 48
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 48
The way that looks, you might want to check and see if the rear end is rotating. It looks like it may have bound up. It doesn't look twisted off. What kind of suspension parts do you have. Heim joints hold everything in place the best with the least movement. Just sayin.
I understand what he's saying, he's saying it looks like the pinion rotated up ebough that it bound the rear U joint, it's pretty common and looks similar with the diesel trucks. It destroys **** every time, doesn't matter how good the parts are if that's what it's doing
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TECH Fanatic
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^^^^Exactly^^^^ You definitely need to go to hiem joints. The rubber bushed ends will allow your rear end to move way more than you can imagine. After it broke the rear end yoke, is probably when it took out the trans. Better take the drive shaft somewhere to see if it got bent too. Now you know why you should build the chassis before you build the motor. Make damn sure you put a blanket on that trans so it don't kill you too. Not trying to be a smart alec either. Best of Luck
Bummer, but one way of finding the weak points, lol
Years ago I was at a race, car launched but didn't move more than a foot, blew the rear U joint, the cup went thru the floor (thin tin section) and exited thru the roof, crazy the speed it was going.
Years ago I was at a race, car launched but didn't move more than a foot, blew the rear U joint, the cup went thru the floor (thin tin section) and exited thru the roof, crazy the speed it was going.
Sucks that happened man. Car looks great though.
Honestly, I'd steer clear of a 9" because they expensive and heavy as ****. 8.8s are dirt cheap and hold up to some serious power.
Honestly, I'd steer clear of a 9" because they expensive and heavy as ****. 8.8s are dirt cheap and hold up to some serious power.
Awe shitty man, I wasn't intending to jinx it.
I thought it would last a lot longer than that just based on what the local guys are doing.
Hopefully the damage is relegated to just the broken yoke.
Looked like it was leaving hard AF though!
I thought it would last a lot longer than that just based on what the local guys are doing.
Hopefully the damage is relegated to just the broken yoke.
Looked like it was leaving hard AF though!
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TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2015
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Losing the yoke probably hurt the low roller clutch, even though it still works...im going to pull it and take a look, was going to pull it in the fall anyways to beef up 2nd gear. I seen the video with the on3 car leaving off the t-brake, I should have took a page from him. Even though he was on the brake, when he released it... he still finessed out the hole. Silly me, got greedy.... got up on the converter a little bit, and just matted it. Even went so far as to turn the gate pressure way up, so that it lit off near instantly. Oh well, this won't happen again.
Do you still have a factory torque arm? I've torn up a few of those and that will shoot the rearend up and take out a yoke.
I don't think you will be happy with the basic 8.8 swap, do it once and be done. 9" or S60 with your weight and power IMO. And I'm sure eventually you will turn it up even more. The 8.8 will last a little while I'm sure, but at the end of the day you are connecting a TA to something not designed for it and it WILL flex to some degree. Not to mention the small factory housing ends and still having c-clips.
I don't think you will be happy with the basic 8.8 swap, do it once and be done. 9" or S60 with your weight and power IMO. And I'm sure eventually you will turn it up even more. The 8.8 will last a little while I'm sure, but at the end of the day you are connecting a TA to something not designed for it and it WILL flex to some degree. Not to mention the small factory housing ends and still having c-clips.
Do you still have a factory torque arm? I've torn up a few of those and that will shoot the rearend up and take out a yoke.
I don't think you will be happy with the basic 8.8 swap, do it once and be done. 9" or S60 with your weight and power IMO. And I'm sure eventually you will turn it up even more. The 8.8 will last a little while I'm sure, but at the end of the day you are connecting a TA to something not designed for it and it WILL flex to some degree. Not to mention the small factory housing ends and still having c-clips.
I don't think you will be happy with the basic 8.8 swap, do it once and be done. 9" or S60 with your weight and power IMO. And I'm sure eventually you will turn it up even more. The 8.8 will last a little while I'm sure, but at the end of the day you are connecting a TA to something not designed for it and it WILL flex to some degree. Not to mention the small factory housing ends and still having c-clips.
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TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3,012
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Do you still have a factory torque arm? I've torn up a few of those and that will shoot the rearend up and take out a yoke.
I don't think you will be happy with the basic 8.8 swap, do it once and be done. 9" or S60 with your weight and power IMO. And I'm sure eventually you will turn it up even more. The 8.8 will last a little while I'm sure, but at the end of the day you are connecting a TA to something not designed for it and it WILL flex to some degree. Not to mention the small factory housing ends and still having c-clips.
I don't think you will be happy with the basic 8.8 swap, do it once and be done. 9" or S60 with your weight and power IMO. And I'm sure eventually you will turn it up even more. The 8.8 will last a little while I'm sure, but at the end of the day you are connecting a TA to something not designed for it and it WILL flex to some degree. Not to mention the small factory housing ends and still having c-clips.
Ever have any issues with the ring or pinion, doing that with the 9 inch? I'm really not sure WHAT to do, I've read of some of the Turbo Buick guys going faster than I probably ever will. Then others say the 8.8 isn't that great. Since I have no experience with either unit.....its tough to make up my mind.
The TA still acts as your "upper link". Having heims on the lowers will take out some of the "slop", but no it won't take any load off the rotational force put on the TA. If anything it would probably make it worse since there is no soft rubber to cushion the hit. I've ripped the top bolt holes off a stock TA with just some 1.5x sixties