RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

You will have no issues with that

rt338b

iTrader: (4)

My battery voltage drops every run also as low as 12.1. Anybody have a answer as it is a truck alt also that has been dynoed by the reman builder in Texas.

slowlsx

iTrader: (28)

I put the 160 amp alternator from the newer trucks but problem is there's something in the newer trucks that makes the voltage fluctuate. On my car it holds 13.4 no matter what zero fluctuations. Wonder if I need to step down to the 145 amp and try to achieve 13.9-14.1 at WOT

Cwarta

iTrader: (12)

I hope you are right, I have zero experience with them

3 window

iTrader: (1)

I have a new 145 amp "gm take off" alt on my Nova. It was brand new and taken off a bus so the company could install a bigger alternator. A couple things you want to make sure of with the gm alternators, don't run it as a "one wire." Hook up your idiot light to activate the field. It'll charge without it, but not as well. Second, use a "sensing" wire. This wire comes from anywhere in the fuse box and goes to the alternator plug. All it does is allow the alternator to sense that additional draw is bieng placed on the alternator so it can adjust the output accordingly. I see 14.5-14.8 idling and no less than 13.6ish making a rip. Thats with everything running (fan, dual pumps, headlights, etc). I wouldn't go after a fuel regulator until the voltage to the pump(s) is adequate. As far as regulators Fore F2i FTW.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

I tried 2 reman 105 amps and a 145 - all 3 cut out at high rpm even with a larger pulley installed. Very frustrating. Next to try is an expensive unit to see if a higher quality unit will straighten out the issue.

3 window

iTrader: (1)

What kind of rpms Vince?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

FWIW I’ve had good luck with the 1 wire self-exciting LS1 style (smaller case) 160a alternators on e-bay. Tried the 105A stuff first and it couldn’t keep up with my amp draw.

Do you use an electric fan controller that cuts fan power at WOT? That made a big difference on my setup as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-G...pT47sZ&vxp=mtr

rt338b

iTrader: (4)

I assume you mean to wire it into the s wire on the plug. I already have the idiot light wired to the f wire. Thanks hope this is the cure.

3 window

iTrader: (1)

Yes into the "s" terminal. Good luck.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

I have a factory 2000 Camaro harness in the nova. So mine is wired stock.
The net result is I'm measuring with hpt so the volts are taken from somewhere in the ecu.

my buddies wagon has a psi harness.

Should mention both both have the batt in the trunk with a 4ga charge wire.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Above 5500 voltage sometimes drops to battery voltage, which will start to drop real fast at wot when everything is singing.

I disconnected the meth pump, shut off the cooling fan, head lights etc. No change.

Perhaps we're pulling more amps that we realize at wot???

Monte4ever

iTrader: (2)

Voltage drop issues is a big problem with LS based cars. I've noticed that the ECM reads close to 1 volt less than what's coming off the Alternator charge stud.

MY_2K_Z

iTrader: (1)

I started having charging issues the other day on my 3rd alternator in 6 months. I called a local alternator rebuild shop and they said it would cost $75 to convert my alternator to self regulated. I guess I'm gonna give it a shot, how is yours working so far?

GotBoostRacing

iTrader: (1)

So far my leash combo has worked great. Having it log boost as well is a nice quick check after a run without having to dive into your data logs from the EFI system.