Some passes after multiple changes finally
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,732
Likes: 815
From: Portland, OR
I put the 160 amp alternator from the newer trucks but problem is there's something in the newer trucks that makes the voltage fluctuate. On my car it holds 13.4 no matter what zero fluctuations. Wonder if I need to step down to the 145 amp and try to achieve 13.9-14.1 at WOT
I put the 160 amp alternator from the newer trucks but problem is there's something in the newer trucks that makes the voltage fluctuate. On my car it holds 13.4 no matter what zero fluctuations. Wonder if I need to step down to the 145 amp and try to achieve 13.9-14.1 at WOT
I tried 2 reman 105 amps and a 145 - all 3 cut out at high rpm even with a larger pulley installed. Very frustrating. Next to try is an expensive unit to see if a higher quality unit will straighten out the issue.
FWIW I’ve had good luck with the 1 wire self-exciting LS1 style (smaller case) 160a alternators on e-bay. Tried the 105A stuff first and it couldn’t keep up with my amp draw.
Do you use an electric fan controller that cuts fan power at WOT? That made a big difference on my setup as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-G...pT47sZ&vxp=mtr
Do you use an electric fan controller that cuts fan power at WOT? That made a big difference on my setup as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-G...pT47sZ&vxp=mtr
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Verdad Gallardo I have a new 145 amp "gm take off" alt on my Nova. It was brand new and taken off a bus so the company could install a bigger alternator. A couple things you want to make sure of with the gm alternators, don't run it as a "one wire." Hook up your idiot light to activate the field. It'll charge without it, but not as well. Second, use a "sensing" wire. This wire comes from anywhere in the fuse box and goes to the alternator plug. All it does is allow the alternator to sense that additional draw is bieng placed on the alternator so it can adjust the output accordingly. I see 14.5-14.8 idling and no less than 13.6ish making a rip. Thats with everything running (fan, dual pumps, headlights, etc). I wouldn't go after a fuel regulator until the voltage to the pump(s) is adequate. As far as regulators Fore F2i FTW.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,732
Likes: 815
From: Portland, OR
I have a factory 2000 Camaro harness in the nova. So mine is wired stock.
The net result is I'm measuring with hpt so the volts are taken from somewhere in the ecu.
my buddies wagon has a psi harness.
Should mention both both have the batt in the trunk with a 4ga charge wire.
The net result is I'm measuring with hpt so the volts are taken from somewhere in the ecu.
my buddies wagon has a psi harness.
Should mention both both have the batt in the trunk with a 4ga charge wire.
Above 5500 voltage sometimes drops to battery voltage, which will start to drop real fast at wot when everything is singing.
I disconnected the meth pump, shut off the cooling fan, head lights etc. No change.
Perhaps we're pulling more amps that we realize at wot???
Originally Posted by Forcefed86
FWIW I’ve had good luck with the 1 wire self-exciting LS1 style (smaller case) 160a alternators on e-bay. Tried the 105A stuff first and it couldn’t keep up with my amp draw.
Do you use an electric fan controller that cuts fan power at WOT? That made a big difference on my setup as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-G...pT47sZ&vxp=mtr
Do you use an electric fan controller that cuts fan power at WOT? That made a big difference on my setup as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-G...pT47sZ&vxp=mtr
