tire advice plz
09-17-2017, 09:43 PM
#1
tire advice plz hey guys i'm on the stock computer so i dont have as much control over power as I would like. I just cant make these nittos work for me, so i'm switching to m/t's
i have used the et drags in the past, but I have recently heard good things about the pro bracket radial as far as longevity and traction on marginal tracks like my local.
4.8-4l80e-7875 on pump & meth
weighs right at 3850 with me and a full tank.
4 link & double adjustable coilovers
3400 stall and 3.50 rear gears.
currently use a 28x10 but I could go taller. prefer to stick with a tire that'll fit my 15x10 wheels
i have used the et drags in the past, but I have recently heard good things about the pro bracket radial as far as longevity and traction on marginal tracks like my local.
4.8-4l80e-7875 on pump & meth
weighs right at 3850 with me and a full tank.
4 link & double adjustable coilovers
3400 stall and 3.50 rear gears.
currently use a 28x10 but I could go taller. prefer to stick with a tire that'll fit my 15x10 wheels
09-17-2017, 10:16 PM
#2
This was my first attempt at a prepped launch and I believe it's why it spun so bad. 75/25 TB and Mek, did my burnout but the tires never even smoked, i screwed up. 10# t brake launch
Pro bracket tire, turbo 6.0 3.31 gear
https://youtu.be/GJDLTBety4E
Here is a few weeks later. Car ran 6.9@101 in 6k d/a On 12#, 1.8 60'. I got antsy ant let off before Boost built. Tires hooked like glue.
https://youtu.be/Qv-euZ14UgY
terri le examples for you I know, but I tried.
Pro bracket tire, turbo 6.0 3.31 gear
https://youtu.be/GJDLTBety4E
Here is a few weeks later. Car ran 6.9@101 in 6k d/a On 12#, 1.8 60'. I got antsy ant let off before Boost built. Tires hooked like glue.
https://youtu.be/Qv-euZ14UgY
terri le examples for you I know, but I tried.
09-18-2017, 09:29 AM
#6
For my car, the 275 pro is the best tire I've ever used.
Doug and I run the same track and it's been a bit better of late. Or maybe my suspension tweaks are working.
As for longevity, I don't think the pro is very good. But I don't make that many runs in a year.
Doug and I run the same track and it's been a bit better of late. Or maybe my suspension tweaks are working.
As for longevity, I don't think the pro is very good. But I don't make that many runs in a year.
09-18-2017, 09:47 AM
#7
TECH Enthusiast
A low to mediocre prep, pro bracket radials, mediocre to excellent (radial prep) 275 pros
Since you don't have control over the power, i'd use the pro bracket radials.
Since you don't have control over the power, i'd use the pro bracket radials.
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09-18-2017, 10:57 AM
#9
TECH Enthusiast
In my experience, if you're on a marginal surface ; IE: light prep or even the occasional glue and drag, the pro bracket will work better.
But, if its a surface that will get sprayed and drug often (and the facility knows what they're doing), then the pro will be way faster.
Its a toss up, gotta know what you're doing in the power control department to keep the tire planted and get the power in as fast as it can happen.
Knowing the chassis, power control, and how to tune to the surface are priceless things to know.
But, if its a surface that will get sprayed and drug often (and the facility knows what they're doing), then the pro will be way faster.
Its a toss up, gotta know what you're doing in the power control department to keep the tire planted and get the power in as fast as it can happen.
Knowing the chassis, power control, and how to tune to the surface are priceless things to know.
09-18-2017, 09:35 PM
#11
I keep two sets of rear 15x10" rims
275 MT Pro Radials on one set. They work good with moderate to decent prep. My fastest ET was on them. That being said radials for me have been very inconsistent one pass I let go of the brake they will stick hard, the very next pass 30 mins later it'll knock the tires off.
But if your not opposed to it a 28x10.5 r15 stiff sidewall on a 10" rim has always been consistent for me regardless of whether the prep was good or bad. They are my go to tire whenever me or my friends cars are testing/logging because they go A to B everytime, and are great for getting data nothing worse than tuning a car that's pedaling to get down the track. Just keep an eye on the 330ft time if the car is 60ft'n well and the 330 falls off for no apparent reason the side wall is breaking down. Time for a new set.
25% MEK in summer time temps? Im no expert but I Think that is way too much, It'll soften the rubber so much it will literally come off the tire like grease and stay in that state for a few minutes Not to mention soften and break down the existing rubber on the track. 25% is for winter time 50 degrees road temps and below with no or very little rubber down. If your trying to thin your trackbite use isoproponal with a 5-10% MEK max.
275 MT Pro Radials on one set. They work good with moderate to decent prep. My fastest ET was on them. That being said radials for me have been very inconsistent one pass I let go of the brake they will stick hard, the very next pass 30 mins later it'll knock the tires off.
But if your not opposed to it a 28x10.5 r15 stiff sidewall on a 10" rim has always been consistent for me regardless of whether the prep was good or bad. They are my go to tire whenever me or my friends cars are testing/logging because they go A to B everytime, and are great for getting data nothing worse than tuning a car that's pedaling to get down the track. Just keep an eye on the 330ft time if the car is 60ft'n well and the 330 falls off for no apparent reason the side wall is breaking down. Time for a new set.
25% MEK in summer time temps? Im no expert but I Think that is way too much, It'll soften the rubber so much it will literally come off the tire like grease and stay in that state for a few minutes Not to mention soften and break down the existing rubber on the track. 25% is for winter time 50 degrees road temps and below with no or very little rubber down. If your trying to thin your trackbite use isoproponal with a 5-10% MEK max.
09-19-2017, 12:19 AM
#12
I keep two sets of rear 15x10" rims
275 MT Pro Radials on one set. They work good with moderate to decent prep. My fastest ET was on them. That being said radials for me have been very inconsistent one pass I let go of the brake they will stick hard, the very next pass 30 mins later it'll knock the tires off.
But if your not opposed to it a 28x10.5 r15 stiff sidewall on a 10" rim has always been consistent for me regardless of whether the prep was good or bad. They are my go to tire whenever me or my friends cars are testing/logging because they go A to B everytime, and are great for getting data nothing worse than tuning a car that's pedaling to get down the track. Just keep an eye on the 330ft time if the car is 60ft'n well and the 330 falls off for no apparent reason the side wall is breaking down. Time for a new set.
25% MEK in summer time temps? Im no expert but I Think that is way too much, It'll soften the rubber so much it will literally come off the tire like grease and stay in that state for a few minutes Not to mention soften and break down the existing rubber on the track. 25% is for winter time 50 degrees road temps and below with no or very little rubber down. If your trying to thin your trackbite use isoproponal with a 5-10% MEK max.
275 MT Pro Radials on one set. They work good with moderate to decent prep. My fastest ET was on them. That being said radials for me have been very inconsistent one pass I let go of the brake they will stick hard, the very next pass 30 mins later it'll knock the tires off.
But if your not opposed to it a 28x10.5 r15 stiff sidewall on a 10" rim has always been consistent for me regardless of whether the prep was good or bad. They are my go to tire whenever me or my friends cars are testing/logging because they go A to B everytime, and are great for getting data nothing worse than tuning a car that's pedaling to get down the track. Just keep an eye on the 330ft time if the car is 60ft'n well and the 330 falls off for no apparent reason the side wall is breaking down. Time for a new set.
25% MEK in summer time temps? Im no expert but I Think that is way too much, It'll soften the rubber so much it will literally come off the tire like grease and stay in that state for a few minutes Not to mention soften and break down the existing rubber on the track. 25% is for winter time 50 degrees road temps and below with no or very little rubber down. If your trying to thin your trackbite use isoproponal with a 5-10% MEK max.
09-19-2017, 11:31 AM
#14
OP what software are you using to tune with?
EFI live or HP tuners.
This will be a long write up.
Reason I ask is there are a few things you can do with the stock ECU and a good boost controller. For instance I use a stock ECU tuned with EFI live COS5. I have a Cameron converter that'll do 3200 on the foot brake and 4k+ on the transbrake. I have a LNC-003 two step that has two limiters I use the secondary limiter for the footbrake, signal comes from brake light switch, the primary is wired into my transbrake via a 4 pin relay. When staging I activate the two step and footbrake at the first bulb this usually nets 5-6 psi pretty quick, I then let up a little on the brakes and creep into the beams. Then activate the transbrake that puts me on my primary setting for the LNC-003 currently 3600rpm I also wired in a second 4 pin relay off the transbrake to ground red pin #56 of the ECU. This activates the nitrous tables in EFI live. I use the nitrous tables to add fuel and pull timing out, currently I pull my timing down to 8deg total adv and add 15% more fuel, this nets me 15 psi boost, if I pull more timing and splash more fuel I can get more. When I let go of the brake the two step and nitrous tables de-activate instantly and the ECU operates off the combination of Boost/main spark/ECT/IAT timing tables as it normally would.
Now here is the tricky part that is different from combo to combo. To me I always try to build as much boost as possible when on the line because pulling timing is instant and so is putting it back in when using the main spark tables it takes time to build boost. The other added benefit of pulling timing during launch is a higher boost ramp rate due to increased EGT's if you don't leave on the wastegate, the same process that spools my turbo when staging. My combos gearing is similar to the OP being I have a 3.54 gear in my S60 and TH400 I shift my car 1-2 at 7k rpm and after the shift I see a 1400-1500 rpm drop this puts the engine RPM around 5600 after the shift.
So as a recap I launch at 3600rpm and after the 1-2 shift I am at 5600rpm. Knowing this I go into the main spark tables and pull timing in this range to get the car off the line and have it all back in by 5600 rpm. This also represents the first 80-100ft of the track with my gearing. There is no good set value to give here as it depends on the combo and it's available traction. So what you need to know is your laundry rpm and and 1-2 shift RPM. Combine this technique with a good boost controller with boost by gear feature and the stock ECU will work fine. It just doesnt have the safety features of an aftermarket setup.
EFI live or HP tuners.
This will be a long write up.
Reason I ask is there are a few things you can do with the stock ECU and a good boost controller. For instance I use a stock ECU tuned with EFI live COS5. I have a Cameron converter that'll do 3200 on the foot brake and 4k+ on the transbrake. I have a LNC-003 two step that has two limiters I use the secondary limiter for the footbrake, signal comes from brake light switch, the primary is wired into my transbrake via a 4 pin relay. When staging I activate the two step and footbrake at the first bulb this usually nets 5-6 psi pretty quick, I then let up a little on the brakes and creep into the beams. Then activate the transbrake that puts me on my primary setting for the LNC-003 currently 3600rpm I also wired in a second 4 pin relay off the transbrake to ground red pin #56 of the ECU. This activates the nitrous tables in EFI live. I use the nitrous tables to add fuel and pull timing out, currently I pull my timing down to 8deg total adv and add 15% more fuel, this nets me 15 psi boost, if I pull more timing and splash more fuel I can get more. When I let go of the brake the two step and nitrous tables de-activate instantly and the ECU operates off the combination of Boost/main spark/ECT/IAT timing tables as it normally would.
Now here is the tricky part that is different from combo to combo. To me I always try to build as much boost as possible when on the line because pulling timing is instant and so is putting it back in when using the main spark tables it takes time to build boost. The other added benefit of pulling timing during launch is a higher boost ramp rate due to increased EGT's if you don't leave on the wastegate, the same process that spools my turbo when staging. My combos gearing is similar to the OP being I have a 3.54 gear in my S60 and TH400 I shift my car 1-2 at 7k rpm and after the shift I see a 1400-1500 rpm drop this puts the engine RPM around 5600 after the shift.
So as a recap I launch at 3600rpm and after the 1-2 shift I am at 5600rpm. Knowing this I go into the main spark tables and pull timing in this range to get the car off the line and have it all back in by 5600 rpm. This also represents the first 80-100ft of the track with my gearing. There is no good set value to give here as it depends on the combo and it's available traction. So what you need to know is your laundry rpm and and 1-2 shift RPM. Combine this technique with a good boost controller with boost by gear feature and the stock ECU will work fine. It just doesnt have the safety features of an aftermarket setup.
09-19-2017, 07:24 PM
#15
i use HP tuners, and in the current version there are no parameter outputs other than stock ones. I let the computer shift the 80e, so there is no boost by gear for me I think.
I was suggested the idea of using the fan 1 output (controllable by vehicle speed) to limit boost in 1st gear.
I do force third gear on the line ala the "sloppy brake" to build boost.
you guys running the QTP's, have you ever had a a problem with roll out?
i am reading lots of good things about them.
man, there are a lot of seemingly good options out there.
I was suggested the idea of using the fan 1 output (controllable by vehicle speed) to limit boost in 1st gear.
I do force third gear on the line ala the "sloppy brake" to build boost.
you guys running the QTP's, have you ever had a a problem with roll out?
i am reading lots of good things about them.
man, there are a lot of seemingly good options out there.