Inline oil filter for twin turbo setup, with new engine??
Inline oil filter for twin turbo setup, with new engine?? Hi guys, I've burnt up my Precision 6265 journal bearing turbos on the last engine build, using a high volume Melling oil pump (I think I used the spring for the highest pressure) for the first time. Turbos were previously just fine, before the engine with this new Melling oil pump, but as soon as I fired them up with the Melling pump they were both smoking. Tried oil restrictors, as I was unwilling to yank the engine back out and put in another oil pump. The restrictors did not help, until I finally made my way down to the smallest jet in the Vibrant kit, and with the smallest jet on the restrictor of each turbo I was able to get them to stop smoking.
So anyhow, I now have a brand new engine being built, with a stock oil pimp (like I've run in the past) and the turbos are both being rebuilt right now to the tune of $1,200 for both. With that said, I don't want to trash these turbos again, due to contaminated oil from the new motor.
Is anyone successfully running a single -4AN filter on a twins setup (before the oil feed Y fitting that splits to the turbos)?? On a stock oil pump?? Is there any recommendation for how I should try to setup an inline oil filter(s) on this setup to prevent destroying these rebuilt turbos? Any solid help would really be appreciated it!
Thanks,
Andrew
So anyhow, I now have a brand new engine being built, with a stock oil pimp (like I've run in the past) and the turbos are both being rebuilt right now to the tune of $1,200 for both. With that said, I don't want to trash these turbos again, due to contaminated oil from the new motor.
Is anyone successfully running a single -4AN filter on a twins setup (before the oil feed Y fitting that splits to the turbos)?? On a stock oil pump?? Is there any recommendation for how I should try to setup an inline oil filter(s) on this setup to prevent destroying these rebuilt turbos? Any solid help would really be appreciated it!
Thanks,
Andrew
I found this diagram of an LS oil pressure circuit so that's what I was basing my info off of.
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The oil exiting the pedestal above the oil filter is filtered, as long as it's not being bypassed by either the bypass valve in the filter or the bypass valve in the pan.
Bypassing usually occurs when oil is cold and more viscous.
So as already mentioned if you use a filter without a bypass valve and you remove the filter bypass valve in the oil pan and plug it, you will guarantee you get filtered oil only to the turbos.
Just be careful about revving or loading the engine until the oil is up to temp.
Bypassing usually occurs when oil is cold and more viscous.
So as already mentioned if you use a filter without a bypass valve and you remove the filter bypass valve in the oil pan and plug it, you will guarantee you get filtered oil only to the turbos.
Just be careful about revving or loading the engine until the oil is up to temp.
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What bypass-less filters are you all using? I've heard the Fram PH4825 is one? Anyone verify that? Can't find that PN on amazon or local.
The pan bypass (esp an old one) is very easily activated in my experience. A cold startup will do it. Higher than factory pressures, etc. I found evidence of bearing material on my turbo bearing many times because of it. I plug it now.
I tap the main galley pre filter (just because it's easy) and run an additional 1QT spin on hydraulic filter without a bypass. Adds a quart of oil to the system and ensures the turbos get a clean supply. Pretty easy to install as well cost me around $50.
Usually smoking turbos are due to an inadequate drain line. Might make sure you are squared away there as well. No reason not to stick a ¾” ID drain on them if you have the room. Make sure the fittings don’t neck way down as well.
The pan bypass (esp an old one) is very easily activated in my experience. A cold startup will do it. Higher than factory pressures, etc. I found evidence of bearing material on my turbo bearing many times because of it. I plug it now.
I tap the main galley pre filter (just because it's easy) and run an additional 1QT spin on hydraulic filter without a bypass. Adds a quart of oil to the system and ensures the turbos get a clean supply. Pretty easy to install as well cost me around $50.
Usually smoking turbos are due to an inadequate drain line. Might make sure you are squared away there as well. No reason not to stick a ¾” ID drain on them if you have the room. Make sure the fittings don’t neck way down as well.
Last edited by Forcefed86; Sep 19, 2017 at 01:51 PM.
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Ever think you killed the turbos from restricting their oil supply ?
What is this fascination with restricting oil journal turbos oil supplies ?? That need oil flow for both lubrication and heat removal. They need lots of oil.
What is this fascination with restricting oil journal turbos oil supplies ?? That need oil flow for both lubrication and heat removal. They need lots of oil.
Did you notice any changes in pressure or pressure stability?
Yes I have had this 4 years now iirc
Motor is perty loose, 3thou + on the mains. I run 20w50 on the xxx96 melling with the high pressure spring. I let it warm up completely before I hit it. It has been over 100psi well more than a couple times and never kicked a the filter oring or anything like that
I'm perty **** what goes to the bottom end sinceI have a billet winberg crank
Hot idle I make 50psi. Cold initial start I make 65psi.... over 100psi even at 3500rpm if it is cold. Usually around 75-80 psi at the top of high gear (7500) hot
Motor is perty loose, 3thou + on the mains. I run 20w50 on the xxx96 melling with the high pressure spring. I let it warm up completely before I hit it. It has been over 100psi well more than a couple times and never kicked a the filter oring or anything like that
I'm perty **** what goes to the bottom end sinceI have a billet winberg crank
Hot idle I make 50psi. Cold initial start I make 65psi.... over 100psi even at 3500rpm if it is cold. Usually around 75-80 psi at the top of high gear (7500) hot
Last edited by rotary1307cc; Sep 19, 2017 at 05:13 PM.
Hi everyone thanks a bunch for all of the replies. I am pulling oil from the port above the filter. Sounds like plugging this bypass valve is what I need to do, because there was definitely a sign of trash on one of the turbine shafts. The other turbo hasn't been torn down yet.
My oil pan is at the machine shop a ways up the road and I won't have my hands back on it until the engine is ready to be picked back up, at which point I'll be scrambling to get it dropped in. So that I'm prepared, can anyone tell me what is needed to remove the bypass valve, and what to plug it with? I do see some filter parts #'s mentioned above so that will be great.
Will a filter like the WIX 1522 be good enough to filter out miniscule particles from making it to the turbos? I suppose so, if it does the same for the rest of the engine, just want to make sure I'm not leaving any room for failure here, if I really should still add an inline filter to the mix still. Thanks again!
My oil pan is at the machine shop a ways up the road and I won't have my hands back on it until the engine is ready to be picked back up, at which point I'll be scrambling to get it dropped in. So that I'm prepared, can anyone tell me what is needed to remove the bypass valve, and what to plug it with? I do see some filter parts #'s mentioned above so that will be great.
Will a filter like the WIX 1522 be good enough to filter out miniscule particles from making it to the turbos? I suppose so, if it does the same for the rest of the engine, just want to make sure I'm not leaving any room for failure here, if I really should still add an inline filter to the mix still. Thanks again!
Also, the current -10 lines are nice and short, and don't have any dips or bends in them. So now that the engine is back out, I'm going back to a stock pump and no restrictors, which has proven to work perfectly fine with these turbos and their drains in the past.
Needing "lots of oil" isn't necessarily an easy statement to just go off of. Someone told me that before, and suggested I get a Melling and run the highest pressure spring so I can keep these turbos nice and lubricated-- I think you see what that did for me lol.
Last edited by MEAN GTO; Sep 20, 2017 at 02:41 PM.