MEAN GTO

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys, I've burnt up my Precision 6265 journal bearing turbos on the last engine build, using a high volume Melling oil pump (I think I used the spring for the highest pressure) for the first time. Turbos were previously just fine, before the engine with this new Melling oil pump, but as soon as I fired them up with the Melling pump they were both smoking. Tried oil restrictors, as I was unwilling to yank the engine back out and put in another oil pump. The restrictors did not help, until I finally made my way down to the smallest jet in the Vibrant kit, and with the smallest jet on the restrictor of each turbo I was able to get them to stop smoking.

So anyhow, I now have a brand new engine being built, with a stock oil pimp (like I've run in the past) and the turbos are both being rebuilt right now to the tune of $1,200 for both. With that said, I don't want to trash these turbos again, due to contaminated oil from the new motor.

Is anyone successfully running a single -4AN filter on a twins setup (before the oil feed Y fitting that splits to the turbos)?? On a stock oil pump?? Is there any recommendation for how I should try to setup an inline oil filter(s) on this setup to prevent destroying these rebuilt turbos? Any solid help would really be appreciated it!

Thanks,
Andrew

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

Take oil from the pedestal, plug bypass on pan. Use non bypass filter..... No chance of anything but filtered oil going to turbo or main gallery

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

If you pull your oil supply from the spot right above the oil filter your supplying filtered oil to your turbos.

svslow

Are you sure about that?

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

It's not guaranteed to be filtered if the bypass is left functional

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

Wouldn't the filter have to be plugged for the bypass to be activated?

I found this diagram of an LS oil pressure circuit so that's what I was basing my info off of.

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

Yes have to be restricted to open. That's the point you never never know when it is

It's very easy to delete the bypass on a stock pan

ImprovedRacing

The oil exiting the pedestal above the oil filter is filtered, as long as it's not being bypassed by either the bypass valve in the filter or the bypass valve in the pan.

Bypassing usually occurs when oil is cold and more viscous.

So as already mentioned if you use a filter without a bypass valve and you remove the filter bypass valve in the oil pan and plug it, you will guarantee you get filtered oil only to the turbos.

Just be careful about revving or loading the engine until the oil is up to temp.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

What bypass-less filters are you all using? I've heard the Fram PH4825 is one? Anyone verify that? Can't find that PN on amazon or local.

The pan bypass (esp an old one) is very easily activated in my experience. A cold startup will do it. Higher than factory pressures, etc. I found evidence of bearing material on my turbo bearing many times because of it. I plug it now.

I tap the main galley pre filter (just because it's easy) and run an additional 1QT spin on hydraulic filter without a bypass. Adds a quart of oil to the system and ensures the turbos get a clean supply. Pretty easy to install as well cost me around $50.

Usually smoking turbos are due to an inadequate drain line. Might make sure you are squared away there as well. No reason not to stick a ¾” ID drain on them if you have the room. Make sure the fittings don’t neck way down as well.

stevieturbo

Ever think you killed the turbos from restricting their oil supply ?

What is this fascination with restricting oil journal turbos oil supplies ?? That need oil flow for both lubrication and heat removal. They need lots of oil.

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

Wix 1042 and 1522 are non bypadd. I use the 1522, bit longer

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Thanks! U just buy them online? None of the auto supply places in the Midwest (KS) carry WIX that I'm aware of?

transam69230

iTrader: (49)

NAPA and O'riley carries wix, if you are close to one of them.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

Great info, is there anymore info on bypassing the valve itself or is it all done in the filter?

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

Yup, napa gold is wix. Those are napa numbers. Actual wix has a 5 prefix






Remove that, replace with soft plug

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

Beautiful, I take it you've done this mod before without any serious side effects? (exploding filters lol)
Did you notice any changes in pressure or pressure stability?

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

Yes I have had this 4 years now iirc

Motor is perty loose, 3thou + on the mains. I run 20w50 on the xxx96 melling with the high pressure spring. I let it warm up completely before I hit it. It has been over 100psi well more than a couple times and never kicked a the filter oring or anything like that

I'm perty **** what goes to the bottom end sinceI have a billet winberg crank

Hot idle I make 50psi. Cold initial start I make 65psi.... over 100psi even at 3500rpm if it is cold. Usually around 75-80 psi at the top of high gear (7500) hot

Nali6.2

fp makes a inline turbo filter. they are trick little pieces and small enough to fit anywhere

MEAN GTO

iTrader: (1)

Hi everyone thanks a bunch for all of the replies. I am pulling oil from the port above the filter. Sounds like plugging this bypass valve is what I need to do, because there was definitely a sign of trash on one of the turbine shafts. The other turbo hasn't been torn down yet.

My oil pan is at the machine shop a ways up the road and I won't have my hands back on it until the engine is ready to be picked back up, at which point I'll be scrambling to get it dropped in. So that I'm prepared, can anyone tell me what is needed to remove the bypass valve, and what to plug it with? I do see some filter parts #'s mentioned above so that will be great.

Will a filter like the WIX 1522 be good enough to filter out miniscule particles from making it to the turbos? I suppose so, if it does the same for the rest of the engine, just want to make sure I'm not leaving any room for failure here, if I really should still add an inline filter to the mix still. Thanks again!

MEAN GTO

iTrader: (1)

Yes, they are quite possibly the cause for some damage here. However, the most recent turbo of the two that was smoking was found to have some metal get into the oiling system, so.... there's that too. But as I mentioned in the post, I couldn't get the turbos to stop smoking without installing the restrictors. Wasn't going to be practical to replace the oil pump with a stock oil pump, after spending a week busting my *** to get everything installed and running. I also don't have the real estate to install two -12 AN fittings on the oil pan so I can upgrade from my current -10 AN drains... If I did -12 I wouldn't be able to fill my oil up to the proper level in the pan because the level would raise up to the bottom of the fittings. A lot more difficult trying to gravity drain two turbos with -12 drains than one (ie: can't easily use bungs in the stock timing cover, etc.)

Also, the current -10 lines are nice and short, and don't have any dips or bends in them. So now that the engine is back out, I'm going back to a stock pump and no restrictors, which has proven to work perfectly fine with these turbos and their drains in the past.

Needing "lots of oil" isn't necessarily an easy statement to just go off of. Someone told me that before, and suggested I get a Melling and run the highest pressure spring so I can keep these turbos nice and lubricated-- I think you see what that did for me lol.