Boost bleed off results...
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From: Simi Valley, CA
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Downers Grove,IL
yeah your losing your power through drive loss and temps. This has been done many times and it always fails.
I have very good engine sim software. It shows my G-trim sucking 80hp at only 11psi at 6400rpm in drive system loss alone on my combo.
If you really are hell bent on controlling boost, then go with a throttled inlet.
This works much better as you limit the amount of air that is compressed in the first place. Then your drive losses are greatly reduced and you won't build unneeded charge heat. I ran a throttled inlet last year. Was pretty cool.
All you need to do is build a throttle blade before the inlet and then find a method of controlling it to limit boost output. Could be controlled by cable,an air actuator or stepper motor controlled.
Steve
I have very good engine sim software. It shows my G-trim sucking 80hp at only 11psi at 6400rpm in drive system loss alone on my combo.
If you really are hell bent on controlling boost, then go with a throttled inlet.
This works much better as you limit the amount of air that is compressed in the first place. Then your drive losses are greatly reduced and you won't build unneeded charge heat. I ran a throttled inlet last year. Was pretty cool.
All you need to do is build a throttle blade before the inlet and then find a method of controlling it to limit boost output. Could be controlled by cable,an air actuator or stepper motor controlled.
Steve
Thread Starter
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Simi Valley, CA
If you really are hell bent on controlling boost, then go with a throttled inlet.
This works much better as you limit the amount of air that is compressed in the first place. Then your drive losses are greatly reduced and you won't build unneeded charge heat. I ran a throttled inlet last year. Was pretty cool.
This works much better as you limit the amount of air that is compressed in the first place. Then your drive losses are greatly reduced and you won't build unneeded charge heat. I ran a throttled inlet last year. Was pretty cool.
Either way what I'm doing now isn't working, so I'm going to swap to a 3.4" pulley, and rig the setup to bleed off boost over 9psi. Hopefully I'll only be bleeding from 6000up, which should give me a much stronger power band, without the risk of overboost above 6000.
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From: Downers Grove,IL
I thought limiting the air inlet side of a blower was "really bad" for the compressor? What did you use as a control for your input? I like the idea, just don't know what parts I could throw together to really run it properly.
Vortech even states that is a good way to go for road racing and it also totally eliminates the need for a bypass valve.
You will need a good solid intake between the blower and the 2nd throttle blade as it's going to pull vacuum at the blower inlet while being throttled.
I had mine cable controlled. I welded a little tab onto the Gas Pedal to accept a 2nd cable. Then just ran the cable to the blower throttle and it was all handled by the gas pedal. Adjustability was on the linkage at the blower.I could set it up to activate at the same rate as the primary throttle or limit it to not open fully just by using different linkage holes.
All you need to do is make a throttle body. A piece of pipe, cut out a blade, it does not have to be a perfect fit to the pipe as it's just a restrictor.Then make a shaft and I used a couple of those nice mini ball bearings out of RC cars for the shaft to ride on. It was smoother than the stock TB.
It worked pretty cool. With the blower throttle set to mimic the primary throttle action ,the motor felt like it was totally N.A until you went full throttle and then wham! It was sort of a cool blower "toy". Of course it did nothing for performance really.
Pretty simple project if your fairly handy at making things.
Steve
