Finally got the D1SC to the track...Like a walk in the park
#26
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Last edited by ddnspider; 11-07-2017 at 07:02 AM.
#27
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To keep my 4l60e alive with 700rwhp and 3800lb weight I kept the shifts points at 6000 rpm and kept them firm. Also always ease into it when you downshift keeps the sprag alive. That or put it into gear before mashing it....
I probably could have broke 9's by raising shift points with my cam, but I wanted the trans to live more I guess lol
I probably could have broke 9's by raising shift points with my cam, but I wanted the trans to live more I guess lol
#28
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To keep my 4l60e alive with 700rwhp and 3800lb weight I kept the shifts points at 6000 rpm and kept them firm. Also always ease into it when you downshift keeps the sprag alive. That or put it into gear before mashing it....
I probably could have broke 9's by raising shift points with my cam, but I wanted the trans to live more I guess lol
I probably could have broke 9's by raising shift points with my cam, but I wanted the trans to live more I guess lol
#29
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Yes, but it is a rpm lvl 6 trans... It has been going strong for 4 years now with big power though. On another side I sold my 408 camaro with the same lvl 6 rpm transmission and the guy broke it within 4k miles, but he broke the sprag by letting it downshift while doing a hard low gear burnout.. Only cost him $300 to have the sprag replaced....
#30
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OP isn't using a turbo, you can get away with shortshifting a turbo car....i don't think that would work the same with a blower setup.
#31
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I know what it takes to run 10s, especially with a stick. Been there done that and still only ran 8psi to do it. This blower stuff is new territory for me. I've contemplated a wastegate blower setup. This way I can run a small pulley which gives me a steeper boost curve as well as allowing me to run a boost controller. If I keep the rpms down I could still run a smaller pulley and make less boost than if I revved out to 7k or something. I think first things first I need to move the shift rpm to the stock rev limiter and get a good mark on the spark plugs. I may have to move to an ls7 maf as I found the limit of the stock maf even scaling the tune significantly.
#33
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I know, I've rode in "fast" procharged cars. I can't say I get it, unless it's for a daily driver, you don't wanna have to hack up anything.
Then they go for a ride in a "fast" turbo car on pretty much the same mods aside from the forced induction type and they get converted lol.
Then they go for a ride in a "fast" turbo car on pretty much the same mods aside from the forced induction type and they get converted lol.
If you want to win races and "be the fastest around" turbo is the way to go hands down. I want to get in and be able to drive my car 16 hour round trip without thinking twice so I'm going with a d1sc on my 5th gen.
#34
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You just called it. Turbo's are overall more fun and make more power easier, but if it's a car you want to daily and not cut anything up then procharger is for you.
If you want to win races and "be the fastest around" turbo is the way to go hands down. I want to get in and be able to drive my car 16 hour round trip without thinking twice so I'm going with a d1sc on my 5th gen.
If you want to win races and "be the fastest around" turbo is the way to go hands down. I want to get in and be able to drive my car 16 hour round trip without thinking twice so I'm going with a d1sc on my 5th gen.
#35
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A/C would be number one. On top of that I mean I can just bolt the procharger kit on and take it on a 16 hr trip that weekend. Were with a turbo there is a lot more work into getting the kit sorted out and making sure you don't melt things. After that a turbo car can be practical, but it takes a lot more work and money in my experience.
I know with my f-body it took me awhile to get the car to stay cool. It never truly stayed cool during pulls until I added the big 3" radiator and HO Spal cooling fans...
For my car a centri made more sense also by the way it puts the power down. I plan on keeping stock drivetrain and street tires. It makes power linear so I won't melt the tires off everywhere. Turbo would make to much power if that makes any sense lol.
Each power adder has its place. I love turbo's and my favorite power adder by far in fun factor and ease of power... My second favorite power adder is a procharger because it's insanely simple to install and have running in a weekend. Put it on and forget about it.
I know with my f-body it took me awhile to get the car to stay cool. It never truly stayed cool during pulls until I added the big 3" radiator and HO Spal cooling fans...
For my car a centri made more sense also by the way it puts the power down. I plan on keeping stock drivetrain and street tires. It makes power linear so I won't melt the tires off everywhere. Turbo would make to much power if that makes any sense lol.
Each power adder has its place. I love turbo's and my favorite power adder by far in fun factor and ease of power... My second favorite power adder is a procharger because it's insanely simple to install and have running in a weekend. Put it on and forget about it.
#36
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After having a turbo setup and a blower setup, there are definite advantages to both. The torque wave of a turbo is awesome....but I also think it would kill my 4L60E
The linear power of the blower helps with traction. I don't like that it costs HP to turn the blower, but love how clean the install was and that I can run a normal header/exhaust setup and keep the hot side out of the engine bay. Being able to adjust the boost easily with a turbo setup is obviously a win. Just pluses and minuses to both. I'll probably have another turbo setup at some point, but for now the blower is a good time.
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#37
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Before the Th400 swap, I would do the same thing....drive anywhere in the country. The t56 was ultra highway friendly, even with 2:73 the rpm aren't ridiculously high.... But high enough to where I limit the drive distance to 2hrs which is the distance to the 1/4 mile track. As far as the pump, I just put new brushes in mine.... no worries there.