Finally got the D1SC to the track...Like a walk in the park
#43
8 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Nice job. Us drive to the track guys are always happy when we pull into the garage after a night of racing. I’ve been doing it for 20 plus years.
Centri’s are nice. Won’t overwhelm the tires at the launch and once the revs are up and going through the gears the power is there.
I tuned a lot of Hemis equipped with them.
The belt slip is an issue and will drive you nuts. Should be a fix for that.
Had a Jeep on the dyno with an F1A still 6 rib and it smoked the belt. Literally.
I have a Performabuilt level 2 in my Vette. It’s always been shifted at 6600-6900 depending on the tune. 200 plus passes. Still works excellent. So I’m not sure where the rpm fear comes from? It’s a low 11 second car. Ran one 10.99
Keep up the good work!
Ron
Centri’s are nice. Won’t overwhelm the tires at the launch and once the revs are up and going through the gears the power is there.
I tuned a lot of Hemis equipped with them.
The belt slip is an issue and will drive you nuts. Should be a fix for that.
Had a Jeep on the dyno with an F1A still 6 rib and it smoked the belt. Literally.
I have a Performabuilt level 2 in my Vette. It’s always been shifted at 6600-6900 depending on the tune. 200 plus passes. Still works excellent. So I’m not sure where the rpm fear comes from? It’s a low 11 second car. Ran one 10.99
Keep up the good work!
Ron
#44
Nice job. Us drive to the track guys are always happy when we pull into the garage after a night of racing. I’ve been doing it for 20 plus years.
Centri’s are nice. Won’t overwhelm the tires at the launch and once the revs are up and going through the gears the power is there.
I tuned a lot of Hemis equipped with them.
The belt slip is an issue and will drive you nuts. Should be a fix for that.
Had a Jeep on the dyno with an F1A still 6 rib and it smoked the belt. Literally.
I have a Performabuilt level 2 in my Vette. It’s always been shifted at 6600-6900 depending on the tune. 200 plus passes. Still works excellent. So I’m not sure where the rpm fear comes from? It’s a low 11 second car. Ran one 10.99
Keep up the good work!
Ron
Centri’s are nice. Won’t overwhelm the tires at the launch and once the revs are up and going through the gears the power is there.
I tuned a lot of Hemis equipped with them.
The belt slip is an issue and will drive you nuts. Should be a fix for that.
Had a Jeep on the dyno with an F1A still 6 rib and it smoked the belt. Literally.
I have a Performabuilt level 2 in my Vette. It’s always been shifted at 6600-6900 depending on the tune. 200 plus passes. Still works excellent. So I’m not sure where the rpm fear comes from? It’s a low 11 second car. Ran one 10.99
Keep up the good work!
Ron
#46
Nice job. Us drive to the track guys are always happy when we pull into the garage after a night of racing. I’ve been doing it for 20 plus years.
Centri’s are nice. Won’t overwhelm the tires at the launch and once the revs are up and going through the gears the power is there.
I tuned a lot of Hemis equipped with them.
The belt slip is an issue and will drive you nuts. Should be a fix for that.
Had a Jeep on the dyno with an F1A still 6 rib and it smoked the belt. Literally.
I have a Performabuilt level 2 in my Vette. It’s always been shifted at 6600-6900 depending on the tune. 200 plus passes. Still works excellent. So I’m not sure where the rpm fear comes from? It’s a low 11 second car. Ran one 10.99
Keep up the good work!
Ron
Centri’s are nice. Won’t overwhelm the tires at the launch and once the revs are up and going through the gears the power is there.
I tuned a lot of Hemis equipped with them.
The belt slip is an issue and will drive you nuts. Should be a fix for that.
Had a Jeep on the dyno with an F1A still 6 rib and it smoked the belt. Literally.
I have a Performabuilt level 2 in my Vette. It’s always been shifted at 6600-6900 depending on the tune. 200 plus passes. Still works excellent. So I’m not sure where the rpm fear comes from? It’s a low 11 second car. Ran one 10.99
Keep up the good work!
Ron
As far as belt slip I've got a dual pulley idler setup so I'm surprised I get belt slip too. Im thinking something is flexing just enough. The RPM is concern is what gameova said....stock 4L60E and RPM's don't like each other lol. On the plus side....if I keep the RPM's down, I could move to a smaller pulley
#49
Its an manual tensioner that I think is the stock Procharger supplied J bracket. I couldn't bring myself to spend another grand for the Aster bracket. If I was running double the boost then maybe. I would still expect to be able to run 7-10 psi without slip on an 8 rib setup with 2 idlers. Ive contemplated an extra bracket from the bottom of the J bracket to the motor, but haven't dug into it much yet.
I also can't get anyone to give me a good feel on what boost I SHOULD be making at 6k with my setup. I am assuming an F13 and 1 7/8 headers will eat some boost.
I also can't get anyone to give me a good feel on what boost I SHOULD be making at 6k with my setup. I am assuming an F13 and 1 7/8 headers will eat some boost.
#50
Super Hulk Smash
iTrader: (7)
I think you're probably about right. The cam is probably eating 1-2psi there. Ported heads and a FAST would eat another 2-3.
But you're right. The J setup and 8-rib shouldn't be slipping if you're using larger pullies.
It's one of those things that's driving me toward a turbo.
But you're right. The J setup and 8-rib shouldn't be slipping if you're using larger pullies.
It's one of those things that's driving me toward a turbo.
#51
I think you're probably about right. The cam is probably eating 1-2psi there. Ported heads and a FAST would eat another 2-3.
But you're right. The J setup and 8-rib shouldn't be slipping if you're using larger pullies.
It's one of those things that's driving me toward a turbo.
But you're right. The J setup and 8-rib shouldn't be slipping if you're using larger pullies.
It's one of those things that's driving me toward a turbo.
#52
Super Hulk Smash
iTrader: (7)
I have.
Honestly, I could bolt a D1X on tomorrow, do a custom FMIC intercooler, and and it'd be pretty nice. And run well too.
The issue really is how loud the car would be. It's 80+db in the car all the time now. Going to a Procharger is going to make it worse. Much worse. And I want to keep the true duals. I just don't know how to quiet it down without killing flow given the space constraints and fitting a real muffler.
Turbo fixes that.
I know that's dumb. But it's the one thing that gives me pause with driving it everyday...
Honestly, I could bolt a D1X on tomorrow, do a custom FMIC intercooler, and and it'd be pretty nice. And run well too.
The issue really is how loud the car would be. It's 80+db in the car all the time now. Going to a Procharger is going to make it worse. Much worse. And I want to keep the true duals. I just don't know how to quiet it down without killing flow given the space constraints and fitting a real muffler.
Turbo fixes that.
I know that's dumb. But it's the one thing that gives me pause with driving it everyday...
#54
#55
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Its an manual tensioner that I think is the stock Procharger supplied J bracket. I couldn't bring myself to spend another grand for the Aster bracket. If I was running double the boost then maybe. I would still expect to be able to run 7-10 psi without slip on an 8 rib setup with 2 idlers. Ive contemplated an extra bracket from the bottom of the J bracket to the motor, but haven't dug into it much yet.
I also can't get anyone to give me a good feel on what boost I SHOULD be making at 6k with my setup. I am assuming an F13 and 1 7/8 headers will eat some boost.
I also can't get anyone to give me a good feel on what boost I SHOULD be making at 6k with my setup. I am assuming an F13 and 1 7/8 headers will eat some boost.
As far as a boost # its all in your combo. I went from a 346ci to a 383ci and lost 2.5 #'s of boost on the gauge and gained 78 hp at the tire. So many things can change the boost #, header size, cam size, cubic inches ect.
I'll snap you a pic of the brace I have going from my J bracket to the oil pan, and post it later. Not telling you to change anything because I know how it feels to get the combo working and enjoy it. But if your going to upgrade anything get a spring tensioner on the j bracket, either a used SDCE or the Aster. It makes all the difference, I have the SDCE spring tensioner J bracket and have zero belt slip... My belt is 2 years old.
#57
That is on the low side to have belt slip. What size crank and blower pulley are you running ? Once you slip the belt you'll fight it till the end... Swap it and move on. With the manual tensioner you'll be adjusting it more often to keep it tight as it stretches.
As far as a boost # its all in your combo. I went from a 346ci to a 383ci and lost 2.5 #'s of boost on the gauge and gained 78 hp at the tire. So many things can change the boost #, header size, cam size, cubic inches ect.
I'll snap you a pic of the brace I have going from my J bracket to the oil pan, and post it later. Not telling you to change anything because I know how it feels to get the combo working and enjoy it. But if your going to upgrade anything get a spring tensioner on the j bracket, either a used SDCE or the Aster. It makes all the difference, I have the SDCE spring tensioner J bracket and have zero belt slip... My belt is 2 years old.
As far as a boost # its all in your combo. I went from a 346ci to a 383ci and lost 2.5 #'s of boost on the gauge and gained 78 hp at the tire. So many things can change the boost #, header size, cam size, cubic inches ect.
I'll snap you a pic of the brace I have going from my J bracket to the oil pan, and post it later. Not telling you to change anything because I know how it feels to get the combo working and enjoy it. But if your going to upgrade anything get a spring tensioner on the j bracket, either a used SDCE or the Aster. It makes all the difference, I have the SDCE spring tensioner J bracket and have zero belt slip... My belt is 2 years old.
#58
Super Hulk Smash
iTrader: (7)
It's a big show pleaser at Cars and Coffee and ****.
But cruising at 80 it's like I can't hear my boss stereo system. LOL.
If I could get the Huron Twin kit to fit with A/C... I'd do that with a pair of 67s and do the 383 I want to build. Because why not.
And I'd invest in the Aster. It may be hard to justify the cost, but if you're slipping the belt, that's like running a turbo and one of the manifolds has a giant hole it it and you can't spin up the turbo...
But cruising at 80 it's like I can't hear my boss stereo system. LOL.
If I could get the Huron Twin kit to fit with A/C... I'd do that with a pair of 67s and do the 383 I want to build. Because why not.
And I'd invest in the Aster. It may be hard to justify the cost, but if you're slipping the belt, that's like running a turbo and one of the manifolds has a giant hole it it and you can't spin up the turbo...
#59
It's a big show pleaser at Cars and Coffee and ****.
But cruising at 80 it's like I can't hear my boss stereo system. LOL.
If I could get the Huron Twin kit to fit with A/C... I'd do that with a pair of 67s and do the 383 I want to build. Because why not.
And I'd invest in the Aster. It may be hard to justify the cost, but if you're slipping the belt, that's like running a turbo and one of the manifolds has a giant hole it it and you can't spin up the turbo...
But cruising at 80 it's like I can't hear my boss stereo system. LOL.
If I could get the Huron Twin kit to fit with A/C... I'd do that with a pair of 67s and do the 383 I want to build. Because why not.
And I'd invest in the Aster. It may be hard to justify the cost, but if you're slipping the belt, that's like running a turbo and one of the manifolds has a giant hole it it and you can't spin up the turbo...