Procharger proflow not holding boost! Help
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
Toss the silicone hose clamps you have and invest/replace with stainless t-bolt clamps. A set of 10 for about $20. The clamps you currently have destroy the silicone at each perforation under the band of the clamp.
I would also replace the silicone hose connectors with at least 3 ply. Four ply probably not necessary when running low boost.
When you have the piping apart also check to see if the pipe ends are bead rolled. If not I would have the ends bead rolled. The bead permits a much better seal with the clamp.
CX racing clamps IMO are just as good as more expensive clamps.
https://www.cxracing.com/silicon-hos...se-clamp-clamp
Good luck - looks as if you have found the reason for the diff in boost.
I would also replace the silicone hose connectors with at least 3 ply. Four ply probably not necessary when running low boost.
When you have the piping apart also check to see if the pipe ends are bead rolled. If not I would have the ends bead rolled. The bead permits a much better seal with the clamp.
CX racing clamps IMO are just as good as more expensive clamps.
https://www.cxracing.com/silicon-hos...se-clamp-clamp
Good luck - looks as if you have found the reason for the diff in boost.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 11
From: Port St. Lucie, Fl
Toss the silicone hose clamps you have and invest/replace with stainless t-bolt clamps. A set of 10 for about $20. The clamps you currently have destroy the silicone at each perforation under the band of the clamp.
I would also replace the silicone hose connectors with at least 3 ply. Four ply probably not necessary when running low boost.
When you have the piping apart also check to see if the pipe ends are bead rolled. If not I would have the ends bead rolled. The bead permits a much better seal with the clamp.
CX racing clamps IMO are just as good as more expensive clamps.
https://www.cxracing.com/silicon-hos...se-clamp-clamp
Good luck - looks as if you have found the reason for the diff in boost.
I would also replace the silicone hose connectors with at least 3 ply. Four ply probably not necessary when running low boost.
When you have the piping apart also check to see if the pipe ends are bead rolled. If not I would have the ends bead rolled. The bead permits a much better seal with the clamp.
CX racing clamps IMO are just as good as more expensive clamps.
https://www.cxracing.com/silicon-hos...se-clamp-clamp
Good luck - looks as if you have found the reason for the diff in boost.
Question: So that pin hole on the silicone during idle was bubbling, would that expand alot during boost. It was not cut or sliced just a pin hole when the windex was applied. Would this explain me loosing about 5lbs of boost?
I’ve taken turbo/blower plumbing apart on more than a few customer cars where the clamps were way over tightened and had crushed the alum pipe. Couldn’t see it at a casual glance.
Even took a hose off the throttle body and found the same!
I’d take it all apart and replace any hoses that are flimsy. Inspect the metal tubing and as was mentioned, get rid of the hose clamps.
Ron
Even took a hose off the throttle body and found the same!
I’d take it all apart and replace any hoses that are flimsy. Inspect the metal tubing and as was mentioned, get rid of the hose clamps.
Ron
No a pinhole leak or even a few of them will not account for 5psi of boost loss. The MAF coupler is a good place to look like you said. Years ago the instruction manual on the STS turbo kits instructed the installer to drill 2 holes in the bottom of the FMIC to allow condensation to come out...that's 2 leaks in the cold side and it's effect on boost was negligible.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 11
From: Port St. Lucie, Fl
No a pinhole leak or even a few of them will not account for 5psi of boost loss. The MAF coupler is a good place to look like you said. Years ago the instruction manual on the STS turbo kits instructed the installer to drill 2 holes in the bottom of the FMIC to allow condensation to come out...that's 2 leaks in the cold side and it's effect on boost was negligible.
Small pinhole leaks aren't going to hurt much. If you think you are missing lbs of boost... it's a big leak. Fixing 20 pin holes won't even give you another lb of boost. Have you calculated your impeller speeds and ensured you don't have belt slip? Did U cap the BOV yet?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 11
From: Port St. Lucie, Fl
Small pinhole leaks aren't going to hurt much. If you think you are missing lbs of boost... it's a big leak. Fixing 20 pin holes won't even give you another lb of boost. Have you calculated your impeller speeds and ensured you don't have belt slip? Did U cap the BOV yet?
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 11
From: Port St. Lucie, Fl
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 11
From: Port St. Lucie, Fl
OK Thanks I will look into it. actuall I seen that video and in the comments section someone described that this was not a valid test and posted another link from procharger why there is a gap in this unit to keep the butterfly from getting stuck. That's why there is a gap in the butterfly, but they stated that there is not a substantial leak.
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,148
Likes: 53
From: Saskatchewan, Canada - where arguing "DA" is for the slow and weak...
OK Thanks I will look into it. actuall I seen that video and in the comments section someone described that this was not a valid test and posted another link from procharger why there is a gap in this unit to keep the butterfly from getting stuck. That's why there is a gap in the butterfly, but they stated that there is not a substantial leak.
As for your issue, is it possible that there is frozen condensation or debris keeping the valve from fully closing?
It has to vent some air at idle otherwise the pressure will back up to the blower and put more strain on the bearings at idle. I've seen the same thing on my car. With that said, I pulled the bypass valve and capped the opening in the cold side....made a pull and it didn't change boost but in my instance I was fighting belt slip.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 11
From: Port St. Lucie, Fl
I did take it apart and inspect it, it was dusty but the spring looks new. The plastic on top was intact. I put it back together still has proper vaccum and holds pressure.
I didn’t even watch the video. I was suggesting you cap it and add shop air to one side to see if it holds air tight or leaks everywhere. It’s a valve that should be open or closed. Pretty simple concept, people over complicate it.
Not saying that’s the problem but it should be a 5-10 minute test to cap the BOV and go make a pass and see if your boost level went up. Those valve types are notorious for leaking.
Not saying that’s the problem but it should be a 5-10 minute test to cap the BOV and go make a pass and see if your boost level went up. Those valve types are notorious for leaking.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Not a damn thing wrong with those hose clamps. More often than not, t-bolt clamps where they are not needed, just result in users overtightening things and making things worse...and that's with good quality t-bolts.
Some of the ones out there are pure ***** instead ! lol
A good quality worm drive clamp will easily hold more boost than the user is talking about
Some of the ones out there are pure ***** instead ! lol
A good quality worm drive clamp will easily hold more boost than the user is talking about
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 11
From: Port St. Lucie, Fl
Not a damn thing wrong with those hose clamps. More often than not, t-bolt clamps where they are not needed, just result in users overtightening things and making things worse...and that's with good quality t-bolts.
Some of the ones out there are pure ***** instead ! lol
A good quality worm drive clamp will easily hold more boost than the user is talking about
Some of the ones out there are pure ***** instead ! lol
A good quality worm drive clamp will easily hold more boost than the user is talking about
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 11
From: Port St. Lucie, Fl
Mods Forged LS6 with D1SC blower and blower cam, ported 243 stage III patriot heads, Fast 102 7.5in crank pulley 4.38 blower pulley 1 3/4 headers with 3.42 gears. The car was suppositdly built right by a performance shop. A millionaire owned the car but did not take care of it here in south fla. The car needed alot of refreshing, now after this leak is fixed will run like a beast. It was tuned by a shop in Boca raton too.
Last edited by corvet786c; Jan 9, 2018 at 08:16 PM.