corvet786c

iTrader: (6)

When the car was getting tuned on a dyno, the operator said that it was making about 5lbs of boost with bad springs getting alot of valve float up top, but now the problem is fixed.

stevieturbo

You say you already pressure tested the system and found no leaks....that says they are ok.

As long as the clamps are sensibly tight and the couplers are not blowing off....then they're working fine.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Does that mean you swapped valvesprings? Valve float doesnt go away on its own.

corvet786c

iTrader: (6)

We had to swap out valve springs the old one's where patriot golds, so we switch to brian tooleys dual platinum I believe the .650's one's

These one's

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Nice, I have the same springs.

corvet786c

iTrader: (6)

I was reading one of your stick's about the 4l60e survival. My tranny temps never see temps above 170 degrees, but about a year ago that was not the case. I have a huge cooler now

On a side note when the tranny gets lock in 4th it seems to kind of shifts hard, I don't like how it shift just in 4th. The tranny fluid has been changed and the previous owner said that this tranny is pro built he spent 4 grand to have it built up. Any thoughts?

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

There are min and Max torque converter lockup tables that determine the amount of slip. If someone has touched these they likely set the min and Max close to each other and close to 100 which will prevent torque converter clutch slippage which is good but it will make it more harsh when it locks up...almost like shifting into another gear. I usually have it tuned like this too to prevent wear and tear. Something else that could be done is wait to lock it up until a higher mph so it's not as violent by dropping to too low of an rpm when it locks.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

PS...nice to see people actually read those things haha.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

As mentioned, that’s a pretty small blower for that engine anyway… you should calculate the max rpm you can spin it to and shoot for that. I believe it’s 68k on the D1SC.

3.42 gears seem pretty tall too. Since boost is RPM based, I’d think you’d want more gear in it? Then once you spin the blower spinning faster, belt slip rears its ugly head. Good luck with it. I’ve had nothing but problems with them. The F1 is the unit I’d be looking at!

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Pretty sure people have made 800w on a D1SC. The P1 is the small 1 for a 5.7.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I was thinking more along the lines of… an LS6 is 400+hp from the factory… Add the ported heads, intake, and cam it should be around 500+HP na. Also If it’s forged… has it also been bored/stroked? I’m just saying it’s a healthy engine to start with for that head unit. And the D1SC production kits don’t have the best reputation for belt slip when spun near max RPM.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

I agree, but with a huge blower pulley like hes running, the D1SC isnt working hard at all. Im shocked it was making as much boost as it is given how big his pulley is.

corvet786c

iTrader: (6)

Guess what guys, I fixed it, It wasn't a major leak at all, I mean still needed those 2 45's rubber elbows, but my problem was belt slippage. The car was serviced 6 months ago with a new green back belt, well by now it was broken in and needed to be tighned and slipping. On the A&A newer bracket I have it in the middle on the green back, Is this ok? I don't want to brake another tensioner again.

Now showing more that 5 lbs more like 7 where its supposed to be. The car absolutly rips now. Any other suggestions

Thank You all for your help and comments well appreciated.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

1st post I was wondering about belt slip lol. Its really easy to assume its something else and ends up being belt slip...I went down the same road as you thinking it was my bypass valve. Added a 2nd bracket that a member on here made for me and all of a sudden I was making more boost. Glad you found it.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

I'm glad to see you found the boost leak Chris. A lot of very knowledgeable forum members added their input to this thread! Bob

corvet786c

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Bob,

Ok here's the story, yesterday I was hitting about 7.5 lbs of boost after tightening the adjustment nut on the procharger bracket, its in the middle section on the same belt that I had on about 6 months now, its broken in. Its a gates greenback 060930HD, the ribs look good on the inside, but you can tell it was stretched on the green part, well today I go wideopen throttle on the street and the boost is not holding again, it dropped off just after 5lbs, so I think I am slipping again up top, should I just go ahead and buy a new belt. I liked the micro v 060930. Does it matter should the current belt still hold or has it lost its rigidity. Thoughts

Also when the car locks up in 4th, its smoother but there is still some flex slight shaking even thought the belt is tight now on the crank. When I had the micro v belt the shift in 4th was clean and smooth. It just seems like this current belt is rubbery, does this make sense, anyone know what I am talking about. Whereas when I had the micro v belt it was not so rubbery but more solid. I don't know how else to explain it.

Would it make a difference to buy another belt vs the one I have on now? This is on a 6 rib setup.

dlandsvZ28

Is your crank pulley pinned or not?

Back in the day (2005 or so) the six rib pulley's slipped a lot. As a result ATI came out with an 8 rib pulley along with a way to pin the pulley to the crankshaft . Key it in a sense with a roll pin to keep the pulley from slipping on the crankshaft.

That said, even the 8 rib belts slip when going over 8 lbs or so.

Bob has the pinning kit as a loaner I think.

Whew - that's a long belt - 93 or so inches - sure that's the right number?

Gates numbers are usually K060930 - with the 6 meaning it's a 6 rib.

corvet786c

iTrader: (6)

Yea the crank has been pinned it's 7.5 inches. I was making around 10lbs of boost in 60 degree weather here in fla with the micro v belt. But the current one I have on now is rubbery, I wonder if it is glazed, anyway to tell? The inside of the ribs look like new no cracks, but has been loose for a few months and slipping until I recently tightened it. its the outside green part, that I could turn the belt over 90 degree with my hand where the alternator sits.

stevieturbo

Blower belts need to be tight....screw than 90deg ****, they need to be tighter than that

And they need to have a proper tensioner, no feeble **** or fixed tensioners.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Once a belt has slipped for awhile, it gets glazed and is more prone to slippage. I'd put a new belt on it and take it easy on it for an hour to let it break in, then re-tighten it. Bob