Trunk mounted meth reservoir/pump issues
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
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From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Trunk mounted meth reservoir/pump issues Im considering this meth kit. Because of space I think I'll have to get a longer steel braided line and move the reservoir and pump to the trunk. Doing some research apparently I need to add a solenoid when doing this because under vacuum it can suck the line empty? Is the solenoid then boost activated as well? Seems like more stuff to go wrong. Any pointers here? https://www.snowperformance.net/prod...-20010-brd.htm
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Did you put the solenoid near the nozzle then to hold the line full or in the rear near the pump?
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Keeping the pump/line full and primed as well as not allowing meth/water to be sucked into the intake under vacuum are the concerns. With that in mind any solenoid or check valve needs to be located close to the nozzle. The pump should have some kind of check valve in it so it doesn't allow meth to be sucked past it under vacuum as well.
If a check valve closes under vacuum what keeps it from closing when being pushed from behind by meth/water? Snow recommends and includes their upgraded solenoid with their trunk mount kit with longer lines...there has to be a reason for this.
If a check valve closes under vacuum what keeps it from closing when being pushed from behind by meth/water? Snow recommends and includes their upgraded solenoid with their trunk mount kit with longer lines...there has to be a reason for this.
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From: Norn Iron
There is no need for a check valve or solenoid, unless the nozzle is in the intake. OR if you have mounted the tank higher than the nozzle, so it could gravity drain out.
And those asking how a check valve can stop either of the above......need to google what a check valve is.
Clearly it isnt an open pipe !
But yes a solenoid is another option.
And ideally either the check valve or solenoid if they are actually needed would be located as close to the nozzle as possible.
And those asking how a check valve can stop either of the above......need to google what a check valve is.
Clearly it isnt an open pipe !
But yes a solenoid is another option.
And ideally either the check valve or solenoid if they are actually needed would be located as close to the nozzle as possible.
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A check valve has a designed in crack pressure below this pressure either positive pressure from the pump or vacuim from the intake tube it wont flow meth/water. The devils own check valve has a 16 psi crack pressure. Is -16 psi possible. Maybe but not very likely in an intake tube unless you have a screwed up turbo or a very plugged air filter and are to stupid to feel a total lack of power from your vehicle. 16 psi of intake restriction would be very noticable.
Last edited by jordoza; Feb 13, 2018 at 07:31 AM. Reason: Phone mistakes
^ what he said…
It’s also suggested not to inject behind the TB as the vac signal will be much stronger there. If you do, you’ll need a healthier spring to hold the valve closed. (or a solenoid) I’ve run a ton of remote mount systems. A check valve at the nozzle located pre-TB has never given me an issue. I setup a few post TB and needed a stronger spring in the check valve to prevent siphoning.
It’s also suggested not to inject behind the TB as the vac signal will be much stronger there. If you do, you’ll need a healthier spring to hold the valve closed. (or a solenoid) I’ve run a ton of remote mount systems. A check valve at the nozzle located pre-TB has never given me an issue. I setup a few post TB and needed a stronger spring in the check valve to prevent siphoning.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
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From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Ok thanks guys it all makes sense now. I work with check valves in my job as a waste water treatment operator that allow flow one way only so that's what threw me for a loop. I also work with press in hose fittings. They don't come loose very often but it can happen so I'm wanting the steel braided an fitting lines.
I will be injecting after intercooler before iat sensor before throttle body. Car is procharged.
I will be injecting after intercooler before iat sensor before throttle body. Car is procharged.
It’s personal preference really but I don’t like injecting pre-sensor.
All that’s going to do is saturate the sensor bulb, which will then report false cool readings. This will make many think they are running intake temps much cooler than they actually are. Which makes it more likely you’ll tune incorrectly and break something.
On the other hand it does let you know the water/meth is active. So it can be setup as a sort of failsafe if you have that ability. Just be educated enough to realize those super low reported charge temps are false data.
All that’s going to do is saturate the sensor bulb, which will then report false cool readings. This will make many think they are running intake temps much cooler than they actually are. Which makes it more likely you’ll tune incorrectly and break something.
On the other hand it does let you know the water/meth is active. So it can be setup as a sort of failsafe if you have that ability. Just be educated enough to realize those super low reported charge temps are false data.
Last edited by Forcefed86; Feb 13, 2018 at 08:39 AM.
Ok thanks guys it all makes sense now. I work with check valves in my job as a waste water treatment operator that allow flow one way only so that's what threw me for a loop. I also work with press in hose fittings. They don't come loose very often but it can happen so I'm wanting the steel braided an fitting lines.
I will be injecting after intercooler before iat sensor before throttle body. Car is procharged.
I will be injecting after intercooler before iat sensor before throttle body. Car is procharged.