Factory ring gaps on a forged motor
TECH Regular
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 423
Likes: 21
But in no way whatsoever does installing and torquing the bearings up render them unusable. That is just nonsense.[/QUOTE]
When the soft Babbitt material gets distorted from the torquing sequence it doesn't bounce back when untorqued
I'm not on here to fight with anyone I just don't want simple mistakes to be made and cost a guy big bucks over a 11$ bearing
as for the guys attacking my posts personally if I'm wrong about this one then so was grumpy Jenkins who was good friends with Barry Maskery who was my engines teacher in college
or Bill Miller of Bill Miller connecting rods who taught Bill Cannon of awesome engines where I worked and built numerous 1000+ hp engines
haha the little tabs on the back of the bearing
a lot of good that is going to do
When the soft Babbitt material gets distorted from the torquing sequence it doesn't bounce back when untorqued
I'm not on here to fight with anyone I just don't want simple mistakes to be made and cost a guy big bucks over a 11$ bearing
as for the guys attacking my posts personally if I'm wrong about this one then so was grumpy Jenkins who was good friends with Barry Maskery who was my engines teacher in college
or Bill Miller of Bill Miller connecting rods who taught Bill Cannon of awesome engines where I worked and built numerous 1000+ hp engines
haha the little tabs on the back of the bearing
a lot of good that is going to do
When the soft Babbitt material gets distorted from the torquing sequence it doesn't bounce back when untorqued
I'm not on here to fight with anyone I just don't want simple mistakes to be made and cost a guy big bucks over a 11$ bearing
as for the guys attacking my posts personally if I'm wrong about this one then so was grumpy Jenkins who was good friends with Barry Maskery who was my engines teacher in college
or Bill Miller of Bill Miller connecting rods who taught Bill Cannon of awesome engines where I worked and built numerous 1000+ hp engines
haha the little tabs on the back of the bearing
a lot of good that is going to do
I'm not on here to fight with anyone I just don't want simple mistakes to be made and cost a guy big bucks over a 11$ bearing
as for the guys attacking my posts personally if I'm wrong about this one then so was grumpy Jenkins who was good friends with Barry Maskery who was my engines teacher in college
or Bill Miller of Bill Miller connecting rods who taught Bill Cannon of awesome engines where I worked and built numerous 1000+ hp engines
haha the little tabs on the back of the bearing
a lot of good that is going to do
So how do you explain the rod bearings that Happel has taken out of other motors, slammed into a different engine (with stock rods) using WD40 as engine assembly lube and ramming upper 20 psi of boost through, with a shot of spray and slamming almost 1100 at the wheel?
The amount of "crush" at you put it is nearly zero. It MIGHT be a 0.0001". Next time you assembly one of your world class engines, install the bearing and measure how much it sticks out past the rod/cap. That'll tell you how much "crush" you're getting. I bet it's negligible.
And don't send me any more PM's crying because you were told you were wrong on more than one occasion.
It's ok to be wrong. Accept it. You'll be way less stressed over little tiny details.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
But in no way whatsoever does installing and torquing the bearings up render them unusable. That is just nonsense. FACT.
When the soft Babbitt material gets distorted from the torquing sequence it doesn't bounce back when untorqued
I'm not on here to fight with anyone I just don't want simple mistakes to be made and cost a guy big bucks over a 11$ bearing
as for the guys attacking my posts personally if I'm wrong about this one then so was grumpy Jenkins who was good friends with Barry Maskery who was my engines teacher in college
or Bill Miller of Bill Miller connecting rods who taught Bill Cannon of awesome engines where I worked and built numerous 1000+ hp engines
haha the little tabs on the back of the bearing
a lot of good that is going to do
When the soft Babbitt material gets distorted from the torquing sequence it doesn't bounce back when untorqued
I'm not on here to fight with anyone I just don't want simple mistakes to be made and cost a guy big bucks over a 11$ bearing
as for the guys attacking my posts personally if I'm wrong about this one then so was grumpy Jenkins who was good friends with Barry Maskery who was my engines teacher in college
or Bill Miller of Bill Miller connecting rods who taught Bill Cannon of awesome engines where I worked and built numerous 1000+ hp engines
haha the little tabs on the back of the bearing
a lot of good that is going to do
So please explain how those people who will test build to get the bearing to crank clearances they want, by testing various bearings etc.....how could that ever be possible, if every set of bearings they tested by torquing up, then had to be thrown away ?
They test a set....undo to measure, check plastiguage or whatever and find it's perfect....but no, have to throw them away they're now scrap. So you'd be in a groundhog day of forever throwing away bearings because you could never install the ones you wanted....because they're scrap.
It's just silly.
In no way whatsoever is there an issue with torquing up bearings 1, 2, 3 however many times is needed.
And no idea what you're referring to about the alignment tabs.....but that is all they are for, many modern engines have no tabs at all.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 168
Likes: 14
Wonder what ring gaps are set to on the B15 which is built for 15PSI (but known to tolerate over 20)? Sounds like it wouldn't be the same as an LS9 or LSA if those motors use the same ring gap as a factory LS3 (and use oil squirters) or I doubt they would be capable of pushing over 1000hp with 20+ PSI like a few have done.
When you build an engine, assuming you check clearances, do you replace the bearings after you've torque the rod or main housing bore to check the bearing clearance?
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Wonder what ring gaps are set to on the B15 which is built for 15PSI (but known to tolerate over 20)? Sounds like it wouldn't be the same as an LS9 or LSA if those motors use the same ring gap as a factory LS3 (and use oil squirters) or I doubt they would be capable of pushing over 1000hp with 20+ PSI like a few have done.
Ring material, and whatever heat/trauma you impart into them will determine how long they live. ( and of course what heat you can also pull away via the piston etc )
The only generic rule you can apply....is never gap them too tight ! Always err on the side of caution.
TECH Regular
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 423
Likes: 21
When you build an engine, assuming you check clearances, do you replace the bearings after you've torque the rod or main housing bore to check the bearing clearance?[/QUOTE]
connecting rod ID - crank journal - bearing thickness×2 = clearance ÷2
connecting rod ID - crank journal - bearing thickness×2 = clearance ÷2
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 48
I torqued all 8 rods 3 times (stepped) each to 75ft/lbs when I built my motor (Ls2). Also had other motors (sbc and bbc) apart, and have yet to spin a bearing.... or have any other issues. Who taught you this nonsense? Seems that having done all 8 this way, I would have at least thrown 1 rod by now. This current motor has been together for 2 years, been on the dyno.... and to the track more than a few times btw.
Last edited by Game ova; Feb 19, 2018 at 01:25 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 168
Likes: 14
Boost is only a number and largely meaningless.
Ring material, and whatever heat/trauma you impart into them will determine how long they live. ( and of course what heat you can also pull away via the piston etc )
The only generic rule you can apply....is never gap them too tight ! Always err on the side of caution.
Ring material, and whatever heat/trauma you impart into them will determine how long they live. ( and of course what heat you can also pull away via the piston etc )
The only generic rule you can apply....is never gap them too tight ! Always err on the side of caution.
Maybe that guy was thinking rod bolts, if they're torque to yield like the head bolts on the LS engines aren't they a use once and replace item?
And I agree with those that recommend opening up the ring gaps to give yourself room to up the boost later as we all know you will at some point.
And I agree with those that recommend opening up the ring gaps to give yourself room to up the boost later as we all know you will at some point.
Maybe that guy was thinking rod bolts, if they're torque to yield like the head bolts on the LS engines aren't they a use once and replace item?
And I agree with those that recommend opening up the ring gaps to give yourself room to up the boost later as we all know you will at some point.
And I agree with those that recommend opening up the ring gaps to give yourself room to up the boost later as we all know you will at some point.
I'm not sure what cars come with TTY rod bolts, if any. Maybe some newer domestic 4 cyl? German maybe?
Maybe that guy was thinking rod bolts, if they're torque to yield like the head bolts on the LS engines aren't they a use once and replace item?
And I agree with those that recommend opening up the ring gaps to give yourself room to up the boost later as we all know you will at some point.
And I agree with those that recommend opening up the ring gaps to give yourself room to up the boost later as we all know you will at some point.