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Factory ring gaps on a forged motor

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Old Feb 15, 2018 | 02:06 PM
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Default Factory ring gaps on a forged motor

Trying to get a general idea of how much boost factory ring gaps can tolerate on a forged motor?

Motor Spec:
347 - 3.905 bore
9.5:1
228-332 cam
D-1SC
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Old Feb 15, 2018 | 09:31 PM
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I wouldn't go over say 6-8psi with factory ring gaps
I know I'll get crucified for saying that on here but why destroy good parts if you don't have to
probably open them up to 0.026" top and 0.024" second
that would probably give you enough leeway for 15psi
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 06:11 AM
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Why would you build a forged motor with "factory ring gaps"?
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 07:14 AM
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gap them to your piston manufacturers' recommended specs for boost.
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 08:00 AM
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My motor's ring gaps are .0195" top and .0215" bottom. This is per Weiscos recommendation for "street moderate boost" however this is pretty close to the GM factory LS1 gaps (top ring 0.009-0.017 and 2nd ring 0.017-0.027). After speaking with a few engine builders, I'm being told that my gaps are too tight for boost but I see alot of folks boosting stock bottom ends without issue. Here's an apples to oranges comparison but the LS9 factory gaps are the same as the factory LS1 gaps and that seems to be tolerable for the forged pistons in the LS9 @ 10.5lbs of boost. Different beast I know... oil squirters probably aid in keeping piston temps lower.
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 02:20 PM
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And you can bet GM did the R&D to see if it was ok...and have very competent people building and tuning them


Clearly the engine is not built yet...only a fool risks too tight a gap unless they've tested to know for sure it will work, or they are doing the testing.

And all rings are not the same, and all pistons are not the same...so you cannot really compare one against another even if the number variances are very small anyway
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
And you can bet GM did the R&D to see if it was ok...and have very competent people building and tuning them


Clearly the engine is not built yet...only a fool risks too tight a gap unless they've tested to know for sure it will work, or they are doing the testing.

And all rings are not the same, and all pistons are not the same...so you cannot really compare one against another even if the number variances are very small anyway
Yes, clearly a fool... My engine is built. Following the manufacturers recommendations is foolish. Got it. Thank you for your opinion.
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 06:54 PM
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too tight. pull it apart and open them up.
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by truckdoug
too tight. pull it apart and open them up.
agreed
no big deal just put new rod bearings in when it goes back together as they lose their crush after being torqued once
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Heartland
My motor's ring gaps are .0195" top and .0215" bottom. This is per Weiscos recommendation for "street moderate boost" however this is pretty close to the GM factory LS1 gaps (top ring 0.009-0.017 and 2nd ring 0.017-0.027). After speaking with a few engine builders, I'm being told that my gaps are too tight for boost but I see alot of folks boosting stock bottom ends without issue. Here's an apples to oranges comparison but the LS9 factory gaps are the same as the factory LS1 gaps and that seems to be tolerable for the forged pistons in the LS9 @ 10.5lbs of boost. Different beast I know... oil squirters probably aid in keeping piston temps lower.
That's about .005" per inch of bore, which I would think is ok since you're running a D1SC blower. If you had a bigger blower capable of higher power levels, then I would probably suggest opening them up more.

Originally Posted by orange88ls1s-dime
agreed
no big deal just put new rod bearings in when it goes back together as they lose their crush after being torqued once
I don't know why you think that, but that is not true. If it were, you would have to replace the bearings after torquing them up to check the clearance.
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by orange88ls1s-dime
agreed
no big deal just put new rod bearings in when it goes back together as they lose their crush after being torqued once
No they dont.
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
No they dont.
I guess you guys are right
I mean what the hell do I know
I've only built 600 motors over the past 20 years
been doing it wrong all along
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 07:25 AM
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LOL after 600 engines and 20yrs you still think rod bearing have a "crush" factor. Did you learn that from Youtube? what is the world coming to?
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by orange88ls1s-dime
I guess you guys are right
I mean what the hell do I know
I've only built 600 motors over the past 20 years
been doing it wrong all along

Well from your posts...it does seem you have been. Unless everyone is misinterpreting what you're saying ?
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by toytech93
LOL after 600 engines and 20yrs you still think rod bearing have a "crush" factor. Did you learn that from Youtube? what is the world coming to?
what do you think holds the bearing in the rod?
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 10:16 AM
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 11:27 AM
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welp, that escalated quickly.

OP, my suggestion to open the gaps up are based on my own personal experiences. minimum factory gaps work great when everything goes perfect.

my experience has been murphy's law. a flaw in the tune. a bad tank of gas.

the extra ring gap is just a safe bet with little downside, and I think most experienced FI guys would agree with me.

good luck with your rig. a forged 347 with a blower will be all sorts of awesome!
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by orange88ls1s-dime
what do you think holds the bearing in the rod?
I could have sworn is was the little retainer tabs in the bearing. Hence the name "retainer tab".

Looks like you've done it wrong 600 times over 20 years.

Just because that's the way you've always done it doesn't make it right.
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by orange88ls1s-dime
I guess you guys are right
I mean what the hell do I know
I've only built 600 motors over the past 20 years
been doing it wrong all along
Damn 600 motors and still clueless as ****.
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Black89Z51
I could have sworn is was the little retainer tabs in the bearing. Hence the name "retainer tab".

Looks like you've done it wrong 600 times over 20 years.

Just because that's the way you've always done it doesn't make it right.
The little tabs are purely for alignment within the rod. They do not prevent the bearing spinning nor are they to secure it from spinning...and nor will they. The fact the bearing is a tight...or "crush" as some have put it is what secures the bearing in the rod and why you should always install with the backs dry, no oil.

But in no way whatsoever does installing and torquing the bearings up render them unusable. That is just nonsense.
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