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Spark plug reading gurus

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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 03:23 AM
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Default Spark plug reading gurus

Installed a water meth kit and threw in a new set of plugs to get some extra insight as to what’s going on in the CC.
First question, the timing mark on the strap. Is it where the color change is from the tip to the first line or the line closer to the base? See pic

second, heat in the cylinder. Is it measured from looking at the dark area and how far it moves down the side of the plug?

Removed the intercooler and running 50/50 water meth.
E85 primary fuel
turbo @ 32lbs soon to turn it up to 40



32lbs
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 07:52 AM
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What is the engine/turbo combo?
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by svslow
What is the engine/turbo combo?
dont laugh..

its a polaris XPT.
1000cc
precision turbo.
Current record holder in the 300ft sand drags. This page and yellow bullet are the few sites I know people know their stuff. If I posted this in the SxS forums I would never get a response.
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 01:03 PM
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Timing mark looks good. How many pulls on it?

I usually cut the threads off to look at the porcelain. I can never really gauge heat right from the threads.
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 02:02 PM
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I agree on the timing mark. Wouldn’t go any farther though (that’s just me). Heat should be into the second thread. E85 can be hard to see at the base of the porcelain. I’d go hotter plug and pull some timing back out to start. Get the heat onto at least the first thread, if not the second and then put your timing back in it. Again, all just my opinion.
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by truckdoug
Timing mark looks good. How many pulls on it?

I usually cut the threads off to look at the porcelain. I can never really gauge heat right from the threads.
What is your method for cutting them off?
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 08:07 PM
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Chuck the plug in the drill and spin it against a hacksaw blade cuts the right off.
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by truckdoug
Timing mark looks good. How many pulls on it?

I usually cut the threads off to look at the porcelain. I can never really gauge heat right from the threads.

this was 4 WOT pulls roughly 3-400 ft.
Im working with a CVT clutch it goes to roughly 9500 rpm and holds the full pass.
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 10:32 PM
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I recently changed to a 10 heat range from a 9.

You guys think im leaving power on the table by not having enough heat in the cylinder? Is it a gauge to how much burn I’m getting?
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 10:48 PM
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Whats your cylinder head temp look like? At the RPM's you get on a ATV motor your going to have slightly more aggressive combustion and the ramp of the piston coming up starts the heat in the chamber before it fires, Also are you testing your E85? I'd expect that motor to behave a lot like a Midget engine(For other tuning comparisons..) , Have you considered E100? No substitute for pure Alcohol.(And its hard for someone in the supply chain to mess you up..) Post up a vid of that beastie!
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Old Mar 21, 2018 | 09:08 AM
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Heat looks good. General - You want the coldest plug that doesn't foul. Timing looks good, at the mid point of bend of strap.

How much timing will you pull at 40psi before you sneak back up? Are you using mph to monitor gains?

Why remove IC? Not working? Water/meth great to reduce CC temp but not much for air temp. Every 50F drop in IAT increases air density 10% (add supporting fuel = more hp) and helps drop CC temp.
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