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Best block to build a boosted motor

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Old Mar 22, 2018 | 09:17 PM
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Default Best block to build a boosted motor

I have a torn apart L33 which I was planning on using for a turbo build but I'm just looking for some opinions on if using this aluminum block is the right choice or should I look for a steel block? I liked 799 heads which is why I sourced out this block but before I spend all the money on a build Id like to hear some opinions. Thanks for the help.
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Old Mar 22, 2018 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew Walker
I have a torn apart L33 which I was planning on using for a turbo build but I'm just looking for some opinions on if using this aluminum block is the right choice or should I look for a steel block? I liked 799 heads which is why I sourced out this block but before I spend all the money on a build Id like to hear some opinions. Thanks for the help.
Gonna be tough to find a steel block, but aluminum is just fine for most any applications found in a street car. 799 heads here along with an aluminum block btw, seem to be doing fine.
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Old Mar 22, 2018 | 10:43 PM
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Yea cast iron block vs aluminum you would say I'll be fine with an aluminum?
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Old Mar 22, 2018 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew Walker
Yea cast iron block vs aluminum you would say I'll be fine with an aluminum?
Unless you are planning on deep 4 digit power, I don't know why an aluminum block would be a problem.
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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 03:01 AM
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Depends on your power goals and what you will use the car for.

The strongest, most bullet proof you'll get is an iron block....and then sleeve it with Darton sleeves. Just about indestructible.............

But even for builds under 1,000-900 RWHP, aluminum is fine, but still.....why not buy an extremely cheap $300 iron block LQ9......save more than $1,500 over going sleeved aluminum block. And the iron is MUCH stronger. More re-build able. Hurt a sleeve = EXPENSIVE fix. The extra weight is meaningless, so don't listen to that excuse. It makes zero difference in a street car. You will feel absolutely nothing from the extra 114 pounds up front. I went iron and my car handles and feels 100% identical from my aluminum.

.

Last edited by LS6427; Mar 23, 2018 at 04:28 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 06:36 AM
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You won't find anyone here who has ever split an L33 block despite them being a boost favorite.

Use it.
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Old Mar 24, 2018 | 02:26 PM
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Thanks for the advice guys. I know iron is stronger but this is the block I currently have apart and it had the heads I liked so from the sounds of it I'll be just fine building it into a street turbo'd motor for my c10.
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Old Mar 24, 2018 | 03:37 PM
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I would just run what you already got honestly I think you will be fine since you already got the aluminum I would use it.
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Old Mar 24, 2018 | 05:53 PM
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you "know" iron is stronger ?

I'd sooner take that alloy block over any of the factory iron blocks.
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Old Mar 24, 2018 | 10:58 PM
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yeah the L33 block is the king of the sbe
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 12:54 PM
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Whats the past use of the L33 block and has it been bored? should be fine unless its been built before and has thinner cylinder walls and passes a magna flux test for cracks, built that boost monster and do your best to break it! Just have fun along the way
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 02:10 PM
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The motor just came out of a stock 06 half ton that had a slight knock. Bearings actually came out looking fairly good too.
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew Walker
The motor just came out of a stock 06 half ton that had a slight knock. Bearings actually came out looking fairly good too.
So why was it knocking?
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 02:19 PM
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so did the motor have any bent rods?
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 03:06 PM
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I love my Dart billet
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by scottywheels
I love my Dart billet
Baller, did you mean Billet Block man that's Top Shelf Mark Micke level of power management !! What's your setup?
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
you "know" iron is stronger ?

I'd sooner take that alloy block over any of the factory iron blocks.
It's a facepalm. For sure
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Game ova
So why was it knocking?
it was a bearing I'm assuming because one was showing more wear than the rest but I havent been home to take the block, rods and head into the machine shop yet to get checked out
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudy72
Baller, did you mean Billet Block man that's Top Shelf Mark Micke level of power management !! What's your setup?

388 cu inch

Dart Billet Block
GRP Rods
Magnum Crank
Custom Diamonds
dry sump
TEA/Tooley 245s Cathedral
single 88
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 10:29 PM
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whats your hp goals ?
\
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