Looking at pistons and rods for my build, here's what (to me) looks like the best combo so far.
Any ideas or suggestions... is this a solid combo?
I'm all ears as I'd like to do this right the first time and I'm willing to sacrifice hp for longevity.
thanks!

I called Wiseco and this is what they recommend:

Wiseco PN K444X7 (resized) 4.065 drop in sized pistons
Piston Style: Flat top, with two valve reliefs
Piston Material: Forged aluminum
Compression Distance (in): 1.300 in.
Piston Head Volume (cc): +11.00cc
Wrist Pin Style: Press-fit or floating
Pin Diameter (in): 0.927 in.
Gapless: No
File Fit: Yes
Top Ring Thickness: 1.2mm
Top Ring Material: Steel
Top Ring Facing Material: Gas nitrided
Second Ring Thickness: 1.2mm
Second Ring Material: Cast iron
Second Ring Facing Material: Phosphate coated
Oil Ring Thickness: 3.0mm
Oil Ring Material: Chrome plated carbon steel

K1 Rods PN 012AE25613/ CH6125ALLB-LS8-A
Connecting Rod Beam Style: H-beam
Connecting Rod Material: Forged 4340 steel
Connecting Rod Finish: Shot-peened
Wrist Pin Style: Floating
Clearanced for Stroker: No
Cap Retention Style: Cap screw
Connecting Rod Bolt Brand: ARP
Connecting Rod Bolt Diameter: 7/16 in.
Connecting Rod Bolt Material: ARP2000 alloy
Fastener Yield Strength (psi): 200,000 psi
Connecting Rod Bolt Head Style: 12-point
Approximate Connecting Rod Weight (g): 660
Rod Journal Diameter (in): 2.100 in.
Big End Bore Diameter (in): 2.2250 in.
Pin End Bore Diameter: 0.927 in.
Big End Width (in): 0.940 in.
Pin End Width (in): 1.010 in.
Weight Matched Set: Yes
Remanufactured: No
Magnafluxed: Yes
Quantity: Sold as a set of 8.
Notes: With bronze wrist pin bushings. Custom pistons required when using connecting rods with custom wrist pin diameter and longer than stock length.

Also the upgraded pins- S718 for added insurance

Here's the rest of the planned build so far-
LS9 supercharger
L92 6.2 block w/ BTR oil squirters
L92 crank
L92 heads
BTR stg 3 pd cam w/ matching valvetrain

 

Using a 0.020" below deck measurement and 0.040" compressed gasket thickness, you're looking at 9.2:1 compression ratio. A little lower than I would think needed.

Of course you haven't told us what the engine is going to be used for, what your goals are, etc. Essentially you've given us a parts list. I have no idea what you're going to do with it or what you want out of it so I can't even begin to assume this is going to be adequate.

If you're looking for 600 HP, then don't waste your money and build a stock short block. If you want 1200 HP, you're supercharger isn't going to cut it without IATs through the roof.

 

Thanks & Good point- and I will be using ls9 head gaskets.
My goals are:
#1. have the car still streetable and will not be using race gas or E85.

#2. Longevity. I prefer to have a car thats overbuilt and use less of its potential/headroom vs running a smaller N/A build and using it to it's maximum.

#3. I do do High Performance Driving Events at Road America and hope to see Mid Ohio & Road Atlanta too. RA is a high hp track and that's where the high hp will be put to use. Typical cars in advanced classes I run in are 600+ and speeds of 160+ will happen. So with this, upwards of 700hp is what I'm after.
I also plan on participating in the Optima Batteries Ultimate Street Car Challenge.
The car is not going to be drag raced.

#4. Unique build. My car is a 93 T/A and besides the GM owned 02 Camaro, I dont know of any LS9 supercharged 4th gens. My trans will be a Powertrain Control Solutions controlled paddle shift 6L80E.

 

I, too, race at RA.

I would suggest higher compression and lower boost with your goals in mind. The less air that's compressed will lower IATs and also increase longevity IMHO. Any time you shove a bunch of hot air in the engine, I can't imagine it helping things along.

I would look at some pistons that put you in the 10.5 CR area. You will also need to balance the piston volume with piston to valve clearance.

 

thanks! I don't remember what CR they figured- thats written down at work & will look at that Monday, but the piston they recommended follows the same principle. They avoided the lower resulting CR ones.
For cooling- didn't mention that yet, but I'm going to address that pretty heavily with coolers/resivoir and heat extractors in the hood. I dont want this thing baking itself either

 

I'm running a cheap CX Racing oil/trans cooler on my car. Temps don't ever top 240 running Amsoil dominator 15/50. Make sure you run an oil cooler for sure.

 

Have my notes and the 3 options of pistons they have would be approx these compression ratios- 10.7:1, 9.8:1 or 8.5:1. The one one in the middle is the one they're suggesting.

 

There are bunch of Gen2 CTSv guys that road race their cars and one can only run so much boost before you simply can't exchange more heat. e85 will help it to run 10-15* cooler if you choose to go that route...

As cool as it sounds to have the blower on here.... when you factor in all the additional heat exchangers, water tank, lines, HX pump... and that blower weight sitting up high and HX components at the furthermost part of the car.... adding that 100lbs doesn't seem so great any more.

An engineer would give his left nut to remove 100lbs from the front of a track car. If it were me.... I would build the biggest cubic inch engine you can afford with the highest compression fuel you can run/afford/find and stick with that.

My street car was a 2800lbs RX-7 (315f/335r without driver) with a 520rwhp LS7 and it kicked butt on the road course. Aside from the light setup and good power the best improvement I did was to add a big front splitter and rear wing on the car. A vented hood also helped to plant the front end before I did the aero bits.

A 416 with good heads, compression, intake can easily make 550rwhp and be very very reliable. 93 octane can support 12:1 or a little more... e85 can do 13.5:1. You could also spike your fuel with Torco octane booster.
http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/un_acce.html

 

As was suggested, NA is going to be much better on a road course, but if you are dedicated to running the supercharger, I would run the 10.7 pistons and lower the boost so that intake temps aren't crazy.

Realize that you will probably still have heat soak issues depending on how long you push the car.

Might want to look into DeWitt's radiators.