ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Plenty of people on here have seen hot sides melt through brake/PS lines and wiring etc. That's not a negative? I said there are exceptions. People wrap the crap out of their hot side to prevent it but it happens to plenty of people and I can start listing members who it happened to. Its a fact of life something that gets to 1000* under the hood. Having had both, I can be subjective on the plus and minus of both, not just swinging on 1 side and ignoring the other.

dlandsvZ28

I explained in my second post that the location of the oil cooler is a compromise. Same as the compromise that just about every car\truck on the planet has with the AC condenser mounted in front of the radiator (this compromises the efficiency of the radiator).

Then to make it worse the factory installs the transmission cooler immediately in front of the AC condenser on those vehicles with a cooler (this compromises the efficiency of the AC condenser).

So to compromise, the factory sizes each larger to account for the less than 100 percent efficiency/effectiveness of each unit.

But as I said, it's a work in progress. Currently the engine doesn't overheat, the cabin is cool (better than stock) and the tranny oil temp is very low and far south of overheating.

And the Alky Control pump takes care of the somewhat elevated IAT's when in boost with a shot of methanol.

But there is still a temp differential compared to what it could be with the tranny cooler in a different location. To account for that will be moving the tranny cooler off of the face of the FMIC, fan assist it, and run some hose to direct air flow to it so it will be getting a good shot of fresh air.

That, I think, will cover all of the bases (radiator,ac condenser, tranny cooler, and FMIC).

I'm not here to argue whether one system is better or worse than the other. There are negatives and positives with each system. I pointed out one of the negatives with the ATI system (IMO). Note - I have an ATI supercharger.

The op will have to make his own decision as to which system to get.

necrocannibal

iTrader: (5)

I guess since I have never experienced it is why. I did wrap my hotside but to me that was just part of the turbo kit install.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

What if I said I've seen kits that were wrapped and still melted stuff? Again, it doesn't mean turbo's suck. But its not all unicorns and rainbows. Both sides have plus and minus. Have you had a blower setup?

King23

iTrader: (4)

Want to change boost on the fly with a push of a few buttons supercharger can't do that want, want to bust out a tool kit change pullies, belts ect. To get more boost sorry turbos can't do that lol

Game ova

I prefer to draw peoples attention by running out of their life at a furious pace, to the point that they didn't understand what just happened.... and ask me to pull over when I finally let up. With a SC you won't be doing people like that

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Actually you can. Ever heard of a wastegated blower setup?

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

I've scared plenty with a blower. Don't forget the track vid I posted of me driving away with my little blower on a turbo 5.3. Dont be so jaded!

Game ova

I'm sorry! I'm a little biased!

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

haha

JoeNova

-Fbody problems
-Sounds like F-body problems
-Fbody problems.
-Anti-lag.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

Some of it comes down to intended use/driving style and even transmission.
I like my LSA supercharger and 6-speed, The instant boost makes acceleration smooth between shifts with not a hint of lag. My truck is also setup for handling with wide tires and big brakes. If I were to go with more of a drag setup with an auto trans then I would probably go with a turbo or maybe a centri.
You can make good power with any of them so like others have said you have to look at what works best for you and go with it.

If you want to go old school pro street look you can run an old roots style blower also.... Not very practical compared everything else available now but you can still make good power and have some bling sticking out of the hood lol

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Whats the title of the thread? "99 TA LS"...Fbody.

NSFW

That's the second time someone in this thread has denied the existence of boost control for supercharged setups, after describing how useful boost control is.

Why is it so rare? In theory it should just work and it should allow for a boost ****, boost coming on sooner, boost per gear... Does it not work well in practice? Or is it just that superchargers can work well enough without, so hardly anyone bothers?

I've been leaning that direction for my own car, but it seems to be rare... So i have to wonder if there's a good reason so few people do it, or if its just under-appreciated.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

Look at it from the view that a centrifugal supercharger is basically a belt driven turbo you should be able to control boost without issue.
Hell I can even control boost on my LSA supercharger a little. It has an internal wastegate that I can control with the Holley EFI I'm running. I can't dial in the amount of boost so much but I can control the wastegate enough to turn boost on and off, I'm not sure that it would act fast enough or well enough to keep boost at a set pressure. I could hook up a faster acting actuator but I use all the boost I have now so it's pointless.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Basically you place a wastegate in the cold side instead of the hot side and use a boost controller like usual. You pulley it for max boost you want to see ever and it just bleeds boost in the cold side to your desired boost level.

The complaint people have is that you're overdriving the blower for a given boost level....i.e. the blower may be spinning for 10psi but youre only actually using 5psi with the controller. I still haven't heard of anything breaking or blowing it up by doing this. The added benefit of doing this is the lowend/area under the curve is also increased because the blower is spinning faster.

NSFW

Does "overdriving the blower" really matter? (Provided you stay under the blower's max RPM, of course.) I mean, if airflow 5psi is vented (in that hypothetical example), so what if it's spinning fast enough that it would make 10psi without the wastegate? I'm guessing that stress on the belt/gears/bearings/vanes is more closely related to the actual boost than to the blower's speed. Seems like the earlier boost onset would be worth it.

On a related note, when tuning my Subaru it was really nice to be able to set the boost level with a manual boost controller. That gave me the ability to do repeated consistent pulls at any boost level, to dial in fueling and timing across the whole table. Or re-test the whole range just by twisting the **** between pulls. Now I wouldn't want to tune forced induction without that sort of convenience.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

I think the argument is just more wear and tear and potentially more heat generation, but in general, I agree that unless you're above the blowers max rpm it really shouldn't matter.

AZD

dlandsvZ28

Talk to the WS6 store about upgrading your fuel system to support your rwhp goals.
You will need to find a good tuner.

After these two items - you now have about $9k left

It adds/subtracts real quick. See the post in the sticky about the costs for forced induction.