Regular truck to TBSS intake
Anyway i really dont know what a fair price on these things would be, but hit me on email and we will figure something out
Last edited by Lsxford; Apr 29, 2018 at 06:20 PM.
Added that for any future members searching. I try and post searchable content these days as I find most of what Im after by search. Kinda freaky though when I search something and find the answer in a thread I posted in eons ago. Thats a new weird one to experience lol
Last edited by cam; Apr 29, 2018 at 11:34 AM.
I may would consider it, i have a 4th coming soon lol. I started a new job a few weeks ago and previously they have replaced 100s of gen4 5.3s with used engines. Coil packs and intakes galore, i even snagged some low mile 243s for nothing. My most recent score is a gen4 rotating assy 4.8 with low compression on #5.
Anyway i really dont know what a fair price on these things would be, but hit me on email and we will figure something out
Anyway i really dont know what a fair price on these things would be, but hit me on email and we will figure something out
funny enough they never seem to have sold well. now they got the denmah stamp i'll be upping my prices lol
side note: to this date the best selling item is the early truck 4 corner steam tube. $60 buy it now and it's never up more than a day
It's a funky deal if I could post pictures of it from my phone I would, Just picture a Gen III intake, With a 4 bolt 90MM opening. Then you have this SSR intake, Likely does very little for performance but who knows
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Verdad Gallardo when i get them, i sell them for ~ 80 empty and ~200 with injectors rails and tb
funny enough they never seem to have sold well. now they got the denmah stamp i'll be upping my prices lol
side note: to this date the best selling item is the early truck 4 corner steam tube. $60 buy it now and it's never up more than a day
funny enough they never seem to have sold well. now they got the denmah stamp i'll be upping my prices lol
side note: to this date the best selling item is the early truck 4 corner steam tube. $60 buy it now and it's never up more than a day
Good to know Doug thanks! Yea now that they are sloppy approved they will be moving like crazy. And all 4 of mine are complete injectors, rails throttle body, and i believe they even have part of the harness on them. 1 even has a TB spacer!!! Thats like an extra 25 rear wheel right there lol
EDIT- i should prob add i have plans for 3 of these intakes.
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 531
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I paid $40 for my TBSS intake with square ports. If anyone that has some L92 or sqaure port heads and wants to trade their cathedral port TBSS intake straight across let me know.
I couldn't see paying more than $50 for any stock intake regardless. But then I paid about $350 for both of my Gen III 6.0s.
That 4 port steam tube is ******* impossible to find. I have found ONE in all of my yard trips. It's on my turbo truck and it started leaking several months ago. I brazed it back together and it's good again.
I couldn't see paying more than $50 for any stock intake regardless. But then I paid about $350 for both of my Gen III 6.0s.
That 4 port steam tube is ******* impossible to find. I have found ONE in all of my yard trips. It's on my turbo truck and it started leaking several months ago. I brazed it back together and it's good again.
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,177
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From: Florida
TBSS manifold was super impressive on my 5.3 as well. Compared to my other LS1 and even the LS6 intakes on similar 5.3s Ive built.
You can drill and press in the MAT sensor in the side (1/2 bit). I used the ICT billet 4 to 3 adapter as well with the 78mm TB. Heres some pics for any swappers out there. Factory returnless rails and all with DEKA 80s. Aftermarket cheapie rising rate regulator in the trunk.
China plastic spacers so the injectors would bolt up. M6x12x10mm I believe
The 4 port vent rage chaps my ****... lol! Its another issue of the bigger and more is better mentality. But its wrong...
GM used small diameter tubing to keep velocity up. Whole reason for plugging the aft vents was to bump system velocity up even more so it could scrap air bubbles that collected in the heads and push them out of the system more efficiently. That as the reasoning for getting rid of the 4 port vent design in the first place. Going back to a less efficient design makes no sense. Then the aftermarket companies came out with the large vent lines which make even less sense. Bringing back the 2 aft ports and adding a ton of diameter to the lines so velocity slows down to a crawl.
Vent rant over.
You can drill and press in the MAT sensor in the side (1/2 bit). I used the ICT billet 4 to 3 adapter as well with the 78mm TB. Heres some pics for any swappers out there. Factory returnless rails and all with DEKA 80s. Aftermarket cheapie rising rate regulator in the trunk.
China plastic spacers so the injectors would bolt up. M6x12x10mm I believe
The 4 port vent rage chaps my ****... lol! Its another issue of the bigger and more is better mentality. But its wrong...
GM used small diameter tubing to keep velocity up. Whole reason for plugging the aft vents was to bump system velocity up even more so it could scrap air bubbles that collected in the heads and push them out of the system more efficiently. That as the reasoning for getting rid of the 4 port vent design in the first place. Going back to a less efficient design makes no sense. Then the aftermarket companies came out with the large vent lines which make even less sense. Bringing back the 2 aft ports and adding a ton of diameter to the lines so velocity slows down to a crawl.
Vent rant over.
I drilled the vacuum port out that's right above your IAT location. Had to cut it down a bit to get the sensor into the air flow but I think it will work great. Picked my intake up complete with rails and injectors for 78 Canadian.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 531
Likes: 5
TBSS manifold was super impressive on my 5.3 as well. Compared to my other LS1 and even the LS6 intakes on similar 5.3s Ive built.
You can drill and press in the MAT sensor in the side (1/2 bit). I used the ICT billet 4 to 3 adapter as well with the 78mm TB. Heres some pics for any swappers out there. Factory returnless rails and all with DEKA 80s. Aftermarket cheapie rising rate regulator in the trunk.
China plastic spacers so the injectors would bolt up. M6x12x10mm I believe
The 4 port vent rage chaps my ****... lol! Its another issue of the bigger and more is better mentality. But its wrong...
GM used small diameter tubing to keep velocity up. Whole reason for plugging the aft vents was to bump system velocity up even more so it could scrap air bubbles that collected in the heads and push them out of the system more efficiently. That as the reasoning for getting rid of the 4 port vent design in the first place. Going back to a less efficient design makes no sense. Then the aftermarket companies came out with the large vent lines which make even less sense. Bringing back the 2 aft ports and adding a ton of diameter to the lines so velocity slows down to a crawl.
Vent rant over.
You can drill and press in the MAT sensor in the side (1/2 bit). I used the ICT billet 4 to 3 adapter as well with the 78mm TB. Heres some pics for any swappers out there. Factory returnless rails and all with DEKA 80s. Aftermarket cheapie rising rate regulator in the trunk.
China plastic spacers so the injectors would bolt up. M6x12x10mm I believe
The 4 port vent rage chaps my ****... lol! Its another issue of the bigger and more is better mentality. But its wrong...
GM used small diameter tubing to keep velocity up. Whole reason for plugging the aft vents was to bump system velocity up even more so it could scrap air bubbles that collected in the heads and push them out of the system more efficiently. That as the reasoning for getting rid of the 4 port vent design in the first place. Going back to a less efficient design makes no sense. Then the aftermarket companies came out with the large vent lines which make even less sense. Bringing back the 2 aft ports and adding a ton of diameter to the lines so velocity slows down to a crawl.
Vent rant over.
I thought the 4 port steam tube setup was best for purging air out and eliminating hot spots, have I been wrong in thinking this?
Have to wonder why GM would eliminate the 4-port and go to the 2-port if the 4-port was better? The 4 port “demand” is more band wagon BS IMO. Unless you are running an all-out race setup with extremely high coolant pressures, a 2-port is better.
Should be in the same league as needing ARP rod bolts and 3” hot-sides on turbo kits.
Should be in the same league as needing ARP rod bolts and 3” hot-sides on turbo kits.
Pratt & Miller (Pratt & Miller Engineering New Hudson Michigan) and Dr. Jamie Meyer (head of GM Performance) both say that the rear two should stay blocked off.
I used to advocate having fittings that went to -4an on all 4 steam vents feeding into a coolant swirl pot, which then drained back into the lower hose or return heater line... this is a setup that was used successfully by a few race teams, but it looks like this was a band-aid once I got 'real' information from REAL race teams.
The issue is not flow - the coolant passages flow plenty - it's pressure.* When driven hard, engines need coolant pressure to "scrape" the steam bubbles that form on hot spots in the head off the wall of the passage.* With all 4 ports open, there's not enough pressure locally (in the head) to promote proper heat transfer unless you run your overall coolant pressure extremely high (30psi or so).* Indy and F1 cars run MUCH higher than that, due to higher hp/liter (heat concentration).
The proper setup all my LSx racers are using is, assuming the top of your radiator is below the steam vent port:
*The rear vents blocked off, the front tee'd (LS6-style).
*Radiator cap replaced with "open" cap (free flow through radiator overflow port)
*Steam vent tee and radiator "overflow"/free flow feeding into coolant swirl pot (aka expansion tank)
*Swirl pot has pressurized radiator cap, bottom drains to non-thermostat-controlled water pump return
I used to advocate having fittings that went to -4an on all 4 steam vents feeding into a coolant swirl pot, which then drained back into the lower hose or return heater line... this is a setup that was used successfully by a few race teams, but it looks like this was a band-aid once I got 'real' information from REAL race teams.
The issue is not flow - the coolant passages flow plenty - it's pressure.* When driven hard, engines need coolant pressure to "scrape" the steam bubbles that form on hot spots in the head off the wall of the passage.* With all 4 ports open, there's not enough pressure locally (in the head) to promote proper heat transfer unless you run your overall coolant pressure extremely high (30psi or so).* Indy and F1 cars run MUCH higher than that, due to higher hp/liter (heat concentration).
The proper setup all my LSx racers are using is, assuming the top of your radiator is below the steam vent port:
*The rear vents blocked off, the front tee'd (LS6-style).
*Radiator cap replaced with "open" cap (free flow through radiator overflow port)
*Steam vent tee and radiator "overflow"/free flow feeding into coolant swirl pot (aka expansion tank)
*Swirl pot has pressurized radiator cap, bottom drains to non-thermostat-controlled water pump return
Last edited by Forcefed86; May 10, 2018 at 09:00 AM.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 531
Likes: 5
I think we all know at least one of "those guys".... I definitely do. Guy is going to have 50-60K in a 15K Turd gen camaro with a 6.2..... Lots of nice components granted, but....... Just spending money to buy stuff isn't really what I like to do.... I like to try to repurpose rusty junk into go fast stuff. Isn't that hot rodding at it's finest???
This guy even borrowed MORE money for the ICT billet valley cover...... Which is laughable at best since the damn thing is covered up plus the factory piece is perfectly functional...... But he serves a useful purpose giving me someone to laugh at.....
You're right about the "bandwagon" mentality".