Guess you couldn't read the free or cheap part. Why spend money on a cam for 500-600?? It makes a **** ton of torque and responds well to boost.

 

another freebie cam that offers a bump over the stock 5.3 cam is the later lq9 cam #1721

we put that in stock converter/7875 fox body and it's awesome. purrs like a kitten and spools very linear with throttle angle.

 

Don't take this the wrong way, but if I am driving coast to coast, I am running quality parts. And dual
AEM 380 pumps, switched ind. on/off from the dash. You could do the trip just on the engine, then
turbo later. A guy in a fox body mustang, turbo, Ford engine, Randy Seward, is doing a coast to coast
trip now, only he is hitting drag strips all over the country and match racing, no trailer. You can catch
him on Facebook, 8 sec 150+ car.

 

With the popularity of drag week events and the reliability of modern efi engine swaps it's pretty rad time to be hot rodding.

my personal fave is the green '53 belair. 5.3/big turbo/flex fuel....mopping up the 10.00 index classes

 

 

 

With temps all over the place during summer months, traveling around on pump gas, id build a good parts motor and leave the SBE stuff to the track guys who are going for records, pushing our stuff and driving across country leaves cheap parts a easy chance to exit motor right thru the window!! Even if it takes longer to build a solid short block, peace of mind is better than gambling, I don't like China Parts... yet many make plenty of good power with them... twins can be had for the price of a larger single, unless going cheap parts.... the twins can use a much smaller down pipe and the hot side is more simple, its all in the fitment and what you want for a driving street strip car....

Enjoy and hope its built soon...

 

So nobody should use a SBE other than guys going for a record?

 

Anybody can do whatever they can afford, its just not a good plan, he could use Torco Fuel Additive and increase his octane from 91 to 101 or 105, not cheap but helps make use of pump gas.... easier to carry than finding E85 or Risk so much on boost.... add to that the Heat we see in driving across country, all cooling systems and inter cooling gets Pushed hard....

Its not mine, I'm just adding cheap advice..... I don't like pump-gas with Cheap build with boost... usually equals broken parts quickly...

Get good at swapping Spark Plugs and usually you'll find the problem before something breaks....

 

lol it's crazy there's people out there that still think like you. Just can't let go of them leaded gas muscle car glory days, cheater slicks doing wheelies on the street.

"goddang chinese turbos takin our jerbs!"

 

 

That proves you have no idea. Factory boosted cars run on 91 octane and people boost their SBE all the time without failure. It's all about knowing how to tune it correctly for your ended power,compression, boost, and octane level.

 

Sorry bud I was speaking of Rudy72. I think you're on the right track.

 

 

same thing as truckdoug, my comment was directed towards you.

 

Wow, hey Jimfred its your build you can build an all motor LS and get very close to that. power without boost, yet I'm simply saying its not much more to build a decent short block and add boost,,, yet many around these forum walls have been good at building lots of reliable power and just as many have had failures, as mentioned tuning is key... I'm sure these guys will step up and help you there too! Enjoy and have fun!

 

I have stuck with stock 853 heads on 2 of my builds the shitty ones that have the intention that no one wants because they don't think it will hold a head gasket down under boost but it will do I use stock ls1 compression I think it's near 9.5 to 1 or 9.9 to 1 whichever. I used those heads because they were free with a set of Victor reinz head gasket from auto zone that are multi layered steel. Drop in dual valve springs every thing else on the head is stock valve train. I use ls7 lifters but the one thing I did that helped the most is I use arp studs in the top and bottom of my motor it's just extra insurance for the stress. I have used on3 turbos some ppl have good luck I didn't so I only use borg warner now. A box stock s475 or 2 of the box stock 62mm turbos are cheap. I used gen 4 rods and pistons and it worked well I have also used wiseco pistons 700$ and eagle rods 500$ depends on your end goal if it's less than 600hp stock crank gen 4 rods and pistons arp rod bolts new bearings. I may do a budget build but that don't mean it's cheap parts. I believe in using the best fasteners and bearings to help stock parts live maybe I'm wrong but it's worked well for me. I have never bought a nice converter yet I have used second hand converters on all three builds honest to god not one of them has a brand on it so I only know that it was supposed to be a 34-3600 stall no proof until I try it out but luckily I've done ok with them I just don't have 1500$ for converters Martin at tick could help u with a cam but almost all are going to want a little looser converter but that's why Craigslist is handy or a jegs 240$ unit and just be patient with learning to make it work

 

Find a good running 2007.5 to 2010 LY6 6.0 with about 100k on the clock. Change the cam, springs and pushrods. Intake if you like as the factory one not very easy on the eyes but will work. Add turbo, I did twins on3 70mm,(On3 61mm with .96AR exhaust housing would be good for ur goal) 2into1 intercooler read this forum and others, I used microsquirt ecm, get it tuned. The ly6 will make about 560hp without turbos so a little boost (5 or 6#) prob exceed ur goal. I would put about 11 to 14# and enjoy an easy 800/850 hp at the crank.

 

A pair of 35-40mm turbos would be too small for this application. Just doing a little math, here are a few SQ MM area of some common turbo sizes. Someone can correct me if i'm wrong, but i'd assume that a similar single to twin comparison would be between doubling the area of one turbo to compare to the similar size of the single (ex. 2 62mm turbos with a combined area of 6034 sq mm is mostly comparable to a single 88mm with an area of 6079 sq mm). I'm only comparing the inducer here and not looking into and other factors If i'm completely off base, please let me know as well haha. Looking at that, a pair of 52mm would put you somewhere between a 72mm and a 76mm, which would still be capable of the power you are looking for with a pair of decent turbos.

Turbo Inducer Area of Inducer
35mm - 961 sq mm
40mm - 1256 sq mm
52mm - 2122 sq mm
57mm - 2550 sq mm
60mm - 2826 sq mm
62mm - 3017 sq mm
66mm - 3419 sq mm
72mm - 4069 sq mm
76mm - 4534 sq mm
80mm - 5024 sq mm
84mm - 5538 sq mm
88mm - 6079 sq mm
92mm - 6644 sq mm

 

The center shaft takes up a fair portion of the wheels total area. Billet wheels often increase effective blade area because some of them have a smaller center diameter.
Obviously, twins will have 2 of these compared to one on a single turbo, so the comparison isn't exact, but still close. You would just need slightly more area on the twins to equal the single in most cases.