Carquest 20w50 oil in a 150k+ Turbo 5.3? To bump psi?
#1
Carquest 20w50 oil in a 150k+ Turbo 5.3? To bump psi?
been rocking 5w30 in my turbo 5.3 for 2 years (same oil and purolator filter) car only gets driven in hot summer weather and I let it warm up to 140-150 ECT before driving. Engine is a 99 5.3 with 150k+ miles and has been boosted since I’ve had it (3years,centri and now turbo). All original motor with centri made 20psi hot idle on 5w30, opened motor for cam, ported head swap and valve train upgrade and swapped in the GM HV oil pump (found out later it was a LS6 pump with a larger .5” exit port). Same 5w30 oil and Engine only makes 20-25psi hot idle with oil temps in the 190-210 range. Since the turbo (this year) Engine is running hotter and oil too so I’m noticing it’s closer to 20psi hot idle but goes to 40psi instantly (vs 78/75 running .125” oil feed plate) and gets higher depending on how hard I’m on it. I know it’s not bad but the 20psi at idle hot drives me crazy. It idles at 35-40psi cold.
Today i decided its its time for an oil change and went to the local store to get some VR1 or a decent oil in a thicker 15w40 or 20w50 since my motor is pretty worn and its only driven when hot outside so no worries about cold starts etc. my local store had no VR1 or anything synthetic in anything higher than 10w30 WTF. My only choices were Castro GTX in 20w50 or Car Quest 20w50 and I decided on Car Quest for $21 for filter and oil change special. Came home and drained the 5w30 and swapped in 6qts of 20w50. Started it up and boom 45psi cold idle (90*F outside), 2k Rpms 55psi, 3k Rpms 70psi. I let it run for a few min before giving it gas as I checked for leaks.
So my question is, carquest oil any good? It’s conventional as I barely put any miles on the car (less than 1k a year). Gona cause any issues with the turbo? Car is only street driven but I beat on her good. Also why is my oil pressure so low for the GM HV pump? I have a spare 03 5.3 with the original pump and it makes 40+psi at idle cold as well even tho I added a nut in the pump relief spring. Didn’t think I would have to do that with the GM HV pump.
Today i decided its its time for an oil change and went to the local store to get some VR1 or a decent oil in a thicker 15w40 or 20w50 since my motor is pretty worn and its only driven when hot outside so no worries about cold starts etc. my local store had no VR1 or anything synthetic in anything higher than 10w30 WTF. My only choices were Castro GTX in 20w50 or Car Quest 20w50 and I decided on Car Quest for $21 for filter and oil change special. Came home and drained the 5w30 and swapped in 6qts of 20w50. Started it up and boom 45psi cold idle (90*F outside), 2k Rpms 55psi, 3k Rpms 70psi. I let it run for a few min before giving it gas as I checked for leaks.
So my question is, carquest oil any good? It’s conventional as I barely put any miles on the car (less than 1k a year). Gona cause any issues with the turbo? Car is only street driven but I beat on her good. Also why is my oil pressure so low for the GM HV pump? I have a spare 03 5.3 with the original pump and it makes 40+psi at idle cold as well even tho I added a nut in the pump relief spring. Didn’t think I would have to do that with the GM HV pump.
#2
My ly6 has the original pump in it . Same deal 25 lbs hot idle. I have tried 20/50 etc. best oil I found was Mobil 1 0w40. Walmart $25 Bumps it up a little , but not too thick. You should be using synthetic. It takes the heat a lot better and won't thin out as much.
#3
been rocking 5w30 in my turbo 5.3 for 2 years (same oil and purolator filter) car only gets driven in hot summer weather and I let it warm up to 140-150 ECT before driving. Engine is a 99 5.3 with 150k+ miles and has been boosted since I’ve had it (3years,centri and now turbo). All original motor with centri made 20psi hot idle on 5w30, opened motor for cam, ported head swap and valve train upgrade and swapped in the GM HV oil pump (found out later it was a LS6 pump with a larger .5” exit port). Same 5w30 oil and Engine only makes 20-25psi hot idle with oil temps in the 190-210 range. Since the turbo (this year) Engine is running hotter and oil too so I’m noticing it’s closer to 20psi hot idle but goes to 40psi instantly (vs 78/75 running .125” oil feed plate) and gets higher depending on how hard I’m on it. I know it’s not bad but the 20psi at idle hot drives me crazy. It idles at 35-40psi cold.
Today i decided its its time for an oil change and went to the local store to get some VR1 or a decent oil in a thicker 15w40 or 20w50 since my motor is pretty worn and its only driven when hot outside so no worries about cold starts etc. my local store had no VR1 or anything synthetic in anything higher than 10w30 WTF. My only choices were Castro GTX in 20w50 or Car Quest 20w50 and I decided on Car Quest for $21 for filter and oil change special. Came home and drained the 5w30 and swapped in 6qts of 20w50. Started it up and boom 45psi cold idle (90*F outside), 2k Rpms 55psi, 3k Rpms 70psi. I let it run for a few min before giving it gas as I checked for leaks.
So my question is, carquest oil any good? It’s conventional as I barely put any miles on the car (less than 1k a year). Gona cause any issues with the turbo? Car is only street driven but I beat on her good. Also why is my oil pressure so low for the GM HV pump? I have a spare 03 5.3 with the original pump and it makes 40+psi at idle cold as well even tho I added a nut in the pump relief spring. Didn’t think I would have to do that with the GM HV pump.
Today i decided its its time for an oil change and went to the local store to get some VR1 or a decent oil in a thicker 15w40 or 20w50 since my motor is pretty worn and its only driven when hot outside so no worries about cold starts etc. my local store had no VR1 or anything synthetic in anything higher than 10w30 WTF. My only choices were Castro GTX in 20w50 or Car Quest 20w50 and I decided on Car Quest for $21 for filter and oil change special. Came home and drained the 5w30 and swapped in 6qts of 20w50. Started it up and boom 45psi cold idle (90*F outside), 2k Rpms 55psi, 3k Rpms 70psi. I let it run for a few min before giving it gas as I checked for leaks.
So my question is, carquest oil any good? It’s conventional as I barely put any miles on the car (less than 1k a year). Gona cause any issues with the turbo? Car is only street driven but I beat on her good. Also why is my oil pressure so low for the GM HV pump? I have a spare 03 5.3 with the original pump and it makes 40+psi at idle cold as well even tho I added a nut in the pump relief spring. Didn’t think I would have to do that with the GM HV pump.
#4
I would normally agree... but I literally put 1,646 miles on the car in 5+ years lol. Id be throwing barely used synthetic in the trash if I changed the oil once a year or even once every 2 years. Id rather change the oil more frequently. But I agree that synthetic would be better for the heat of the turbo. Literally didn't have anything in that weight tho in synthetic at the store.
Trending Topics
#8
Yes, depending on how loose a motor is, combine that with running the oil through a heater AKA turbo, it thins out. But really, oil pressure is a bit overrated, doesn't take much to keep a motor alive. When I bought my car, it had trash oil pressure, to the point that the check gauges light would come on sometimes when leaving a light (my at the time). I decided to pull the motor down, as I thought it was hurt, being that it would idle around 10ish psi when really hot (ended up being a cut oil pump o ring). These are the worst rod bearings on the right, and all the mains looked absolutely perfect, and the majority of the rod bearings looked fresh out the box, uninstalled. The point of all this is, 20psi is more than plenty at idle. WOT hot, I see around 60psi.... runs like a champ.
#9
TECH Addict
iTrader: (9)
Yes, depending on how loose a motor is, combine that with running the oil through a heater AKA turbo, it thins out. But really, oil pressure is a bit overrated, doesn't take much to keep a motor alive. When I bought my car, it had trash oil pressure, to the point that the check gauges light would come on sometimes when leaving a light (my at the time). I decided to pull the motor down, as I thought it was hurt, being that it would idle around 10ish psi when really hot (ended up being a cut oil pump o ring). These are the worst rod bearings on the right, and all the mains looked absolutely perfect, and the majority of the rod bearings looked fresh out the box, uninstalled. The point of all this is, 20psi is more than plenty at idle. WOT hot, I see around 60psi.... runs like a champ.
Guys with 20-50 and 100 plus psi oil pressure never made sense to me but then again there a lot of things that don't make sense to me lol.
#11
There are many around here that wear it like a badge of honor, "my motor makes 85psi at 1000 RPM hot". I just laugh and shake my head, all that pressure isn't helping anything....it can actually hurt you.
#15
Ive cut them all open, STP, FRAM, Purlator (regular, pure1 a& boss), K&N, Mobile 1, Mopar, Ford, Acdelco and Bosch. Fram was the worst and STP is slightly better but only good for clean out flushes or break in. All the others are all basically the same (purolator, K&N, mobil 1, bosch) with simular internals and filter media. I personally like the construction and filtration of the purolators and thats why I rock them... they are built like tanks, 99% filtration synthetic media, silicone valves... same as the 3-4x cost mobile/K&N/RP. The purolators are easier to get and usually included with filter changes as well. I run the Purolator BOSS on my Ram hemi and I push that thing 8-10k miles with pure synthetic. I looked at a zinc additive but it was $10 and $19 and decided against it.... also alot of guys dont know that additives dont mix well with synthetic oils... dyno oils are a different story.
#16
#19