Couple misc turbo questions
Understood, no problem with what your doing. Your WG spring might not net you 4psi, I run a 12psi spring and I can only make 6psi through a full aftermarket 3" exhaust. I open the cutout and it goes to 8.5psi with no other changes. Depends on your setup and how restrictive after turbo everything is. You should be fine at 4psi tho or even 6psi no intercooler but your going to have to take a crap ton of timing out depending on IAT temps. Also if your an auto its not going to take long to be in boost with the 78/75. Your motor is larger than mine and has heads/cam (i run ported stock heads and a custom cam) and I'm in boost at 3k with the 78/75, but I have a 2400 stall converter that flashes to about 3k so theres less load otherwise i would be in boost before 3k. So your going to be running around in boost pretty easily.
Hows she sound with the turbo? Quieter I bet.
Hows she sound with the turbo? Quieter I bet.
Understood, no problem with what your doing. Your WG spring might not net you 4psi, I run a 12psi spring and I can only make 6psi through a full aftermarket 3" exhaust. I open the cutout and it goes to 8.5psi with no other changes. Depends on your setup and how restrictive after turbo everything is. You should be fine at 4psi tho or even 6psi no intercooler but your going to have to take a crap ton of timing out depending on IAT temps. Also if your an auto its not going to take long to be in boost with the 78/75. Your motor is larger than mine and has heads/cam (i run ported stock heads and a custom cam) and I'm in boost at 3k with the 78/75, but I have a 2400 stall converter that flashes to about 3k so theres less load otherwise i would be in boost before 3k. So your going to be running around in boost pretty easily.
Hows she sound with the turbo? Quieter I bet.
Hows she sound with the turbo? Quieter I bet.
I hope it makes less boost at first vs more but I doubt that will be the case in my setup. I only had room for a 44mm wastegate. If I have any problems controlling the boost, I’ll put a matching wastegate on the passenger side on the crossover. I left plenty of room there for that. I probably should have just put a 55mm right there from the get go and eliminated all the fuss on the driver side. Did you see my shenanigans on the waste?
Holy crap. Your in boost at 3k. Hmmm. I may be in it sooner. That’s good. And not good. Lol. I already have traction problems with nto5 275 drag radials. 3400 yank power adder series convertor.
thabks for your feedback. I appreciate it. It sounds a little weird. It’s maybe a tad quieter. I’m not 100% positive. At first I felt like it was the same and it might be. I had high glow cars on it before and now I don’t have a cat. My plan is if it stinks at idle I’ll put a cat on it but will have an electric cutout for a bypass. I plan on doing a cutout that will bypass the cat an muffler and merge back into the exhaust after the muffler. Sort of like a new vette or camaro.
I hope it makes less boost at first vs more but I doubt that will be the case in my setup. I only had room for a 44mm wastegate. If I have any problems controlling the boost, I’ll put a matching wastegate on the passenger side on the crossover. I left plenty of room there for that. I probably should have just put a 55mm right there from the get go and eliminated all the fuss on the driver side. Did you see my shenanigans on the waste?
Holy crap. Your in boost at 3k. Hmmm. I may be in it sooner. That’s good. And not good. Lol. I already have traction problems with nto5 275 drag radials. 3400 yank power adder series convertor.
I dont run cats, 3" dump into a 3" catback and it does stink at idle even with a 14.7:1 AFR. But I dont think bypassing the cat is worth it since your rerouting it back into the catback. If you dumped before the cat right out via the turn down you would net some impressive spool gains and boost. Like I said I dumped prob 7ft after the turbo and a bunch of bends and with the cutout open its a whole new car, spool is much faster and the turbo spool is very loud (cant hear it at all with the full exhaust) and it picked up 2.5psi of boost as thats how much of a restriction a full mandrel 3"catback with a straight through muffler (lowest restriction).
With the full exhaust the WG opens super early its almost instant (once its in boost) and it sounds like a loud exhaust leak lol, with the cutout open the WG doesnt open "prematurely" where it comes on harder and quicker and I dont hear the dump over the cutout (this happens with and without the EBC keeping it shut). Alot of things affect WG operation, like referencing the gate to the compressor vs the intake or the size of the valve and how backpressure affects spring rate (turbo efficency and hotside).
Haha yea Im breaking past 105kpa right at 3k (full boost by 3500-4k depending on throttle), but thats where the stall flashes to so theirs no load to build boost. Full boost can be a little slow but I contribute that to a large 3" crossover that came with my kit. In 4th with a locked converter I can build boost at like 2k lol. Its not really a bad thing bc boost down low makes gobs of tq and thats how you bend rods lol. Also I would look into getting a better tire, the NT05 I haven't heard that many great reviews about. I was considering them when I was getting new tires for this very problem. I was steered away from them (didn't take that much bc I ran 555s back in the day and they sucked big ***** at the track) Instead I was told to get the MT streets and I did. All i got to say is Holy Crap! I went from spinning at 50% throttle at lowish boost to WOT at 10+psi and no tire spin, the MT streets are no frigin joke. I even kept the same 275 size tire and got massive improvements in grip. Boost hits like a sludge so tire grip is important, ditch the NT05 and get you some MT streets you won't be disappointed. and they have larger rain channels in case you get stuck out in the rain.
Oh yea your right.. I'm running a 60mm WG but its an HKS clone so the exit on the WG is only 44mm even if the valve is 60mm. You might not even be able to get that low due to the WG size but that really depends on the setup.
I dont run cats, 3" dump into a 3" catback and it does stink at idle even with a 14.7:1 AFR. But I dont think bypassing the cat is worth it since your rerouting it back into the catback. If you dumped before the cat right out via the turn down you would net some impressive spool gains and boost. Like I said I dumped prob 7ft after the turbo and a bunch of bends and with the cutout open its a whole new car, spool is much faster and the turbo spool is very loud (cant hear it at all with the full exhaust) and it picked up 2.5psi of boost as thats how much of a restriction a full mandrel 3"catback with a straight through muffler (lowest restriction).
With the full exhaust the WG opens super early its almost instant (once its in boost) and it sounds like a loud exhaust leak lol, with the cutout open the WG doesnt open "prematurely" where it comes on harder and quicker and I dont hear the dump over the cutout (this happens with and without the EBC keeping it shut). Alot of things affect WG operation, like referencing the gate to the compressor vs the intake or the size of the valve and how backpressure affects spring rate (turbo efficency and hotside).
Haha yea Im breaking past 105kpa right at 3k (full boost by 3500-4k depending on throttle), but thats where the stall flashes to so theirs no load to build boost. Full boost can be a little slow but I contribute that to a large 3" crossover that came with my kit. In 4th with a locked converter I can build boost at like 2k lol. Its not really a bad thing bc boost down low makes gobs of tq and thats how you bend rods lol. Also I would look into getting a better tire, the NT05 I haven't heard that many great reviews about. I was considering them when I was getting new tires for this very problem. I was steered away from them (didn't take that much bc I ran 555s back in the day and they sucked big ***** at the track) Instead I was told to get the MT streets and I did. All i got to say is Holy Crap! I went from spinning at 50% throttle at lowish boost to WOT at 10+psi and no tire spin, the MT streets are no frigin joke. I even kept the same 275 size tire and got massive improvements in grip. Boost hits like a sludge so tire grip is important, ditch the NT05 and get you some MT streets you won't be disappointed. and they have larger rain channels in case you get stuck out in the rain.
I dont run cats, 3" dump into a 3" catback and it does stink at idle even with a 14.7:1 AFR. But I dont think bypassing the cat is worth it since your rerouting it back into the catback. If you dumped before the cat right out via the turn down you would net some impressive spool gains and boost. Like I said I dumped prob 7ft after the turbo and a bunch of bends and with the cutout open its a whole new car, spool is much faster and the turbo spool is very loud (cant hear it at all with the full exhaust) and it picked up 2.5psi of boost as thats how much of a restriction a full mandrel 3"catback with a straight through muffler (lowest restriction).
With the full exhaust the WG opens super early its almost instant (once its in boost) and it sounds like a loud exhaust leak lol, with the cutout open the WG doesnt open "prematurely" where it comes on harder and quicker and I dont hear the dump over the cutout (this happens with and without the EBC keeping it shut). Alot of things affect WG operation, like referencing the gate to the compressor vs the intake or the size of the valve and how backpressure affects spring rate (turbo efficency and hotside).
Haha yea Im breaking past 105kpa right at 3k (full boost by 3500-4k depending on throttle), but thats where the stall flashes to so theirs no load to build boost. Full boost can be a little slow but I contribute that to a large 3" crossover that came with my kit. In 4th with a locked converter I can build boost at like 2k lol. Its not really a bad thing bc boost down low makes gobs of tq and thats how you bend rods lol. Also I would look into getting a better tire, the NT05 I haven't heard that many great reviews about. I was considering them when I was getting new tires for this very problem. I was steered away from them (didn't take that much bc I ran 555s back in the day and they sucked big ***** at the track) Instead I was told to get the MT streets and I did. All i got to say is Holy Crap! I went from spinning at 50% throttle at lowish boost to WOT at 10+psi and no tire spin, the MT streets are no frigin joke. I even kept the same 275 size tire and got massive improvements in grip. Boost hits like a sludge so tire grip is important, ditch the NT05 and get you some MT streets you won't be disappointed. and they have larger rain channels in case you get stuck out in the rain.
Oh yea your right.. I'm running a 60mm WG but its an HKS clone so the exit on the WG is only 44mm even if the valve is 60mm. You might not even be able to get that low due to the WG size but that really depends on the setup.
I dont run cats, 3" dump into a 3" catback and it does stink at idle even with a 14.7:1 AFR. But I dont think bypassing the cat is worth it since your rerouting it back into the catback. If you dumped before the cat right out via the turn down you would net some impressive spool gains and boost. Like I said I dumped prob 7ft after the turbo and a bunch of bends and with the cutout open its a whole new car, spool is much faster and the turbo spool is very loud (cant hear it at all with the full exhaust) and it picked up 2.5psi of boost as thats how much of a restriction a full mandrel 3"catback with a straight through muffler (lowest restriction).
With the full exhaust the WG opens super early its almost instant (once its in boost) and it sounds like a loud exhaust leak lol, with the cutout open the WG doesnt open "prematurely" where it comes on harder and quicker and I dont hear the dump over the cutout (this happens with and without the EBC keeping it shut). Alot of things affect WG operation, like referencing the gate to the compressor vs the intake or the size of the valve and how backpressure affects spring rate (turbo efficency and hotside).
Haha yea Im breaking past 105kpa right at 3k (full boost by 3500-4k depending on throttle), but thats where the stall flashes to so theirs no load to build boost. Full boost can be a little slow but I contribute that to a large 3" crossover that came with my kit. In 4th with a locked converter I can build boost at like 2k lol. Its not really a bad thing bc boost down low makes gobs of tq and thats how you bend rods lol. Also I would look into getting a better tire, the NT05 I haven't heard that many great reviews about. I was considering them when I was getting new tires for this very problem. I was steered away from them (didn't take that much bc I ran 555s back in the day and they sucked big ***** at the track) Instead I was told to get the MT streets and I did. All i got to say is Holy Crap! I went from spinning at 50% throttle at lowish boost to WOT at 10+psi and no tire spin, the MT streets are no frigin joke. I even kept the same 275 size tire and got massive improvements in grip. Boost hits like a sludge so tire grip is important, ditch the NT05 and get you some MT streets you won't be disappointed. and they have larger rain channels in case you get stuck out in the rain.
I dont run cats, 3" dump into a 3" catback and it does stink at idle even with a 14.7:1 AFR. But I dont think bypassing the cat is worth it since your rerouting it back into the catback. If you dumped before the cat right out via the turn down you would net some impressive spool gains and boost. Like I said I dumped prob 7ft after the turbo and a bunch of bends and with the cutout open its a whole new car, spool is much faster and the turbo spool is very loud (cant hear it at all with the full exhaust) and it picked up 2.5psi of boost as thats how much of a restriction a full mandrel 3"catback with a straight through muffler (lowest restriction).
With the full exhaust the WG opens super early its almost instant (once its in boost) and it sounds like a loud exhaust leak lol, with the cutout open the WG doesnt open "prematurely" where it comes on harder and quicker and I dont hear the dump over the cutout (this happens with and without the EBC keeping it shut). Alot of things affect WG operation, like referencing the gate to the compressor vs the intake or the size of the valve and how backpressure affects spring rate (turbo efficency and hotside).
Haha yea Im breaking past 105kpa right at 3k (full boost by 3500-4k depending on throttle), but thats where the stall flashes to so theirs no load to build boost. Full boost can be a little slow but I contribute that to a large 3" crossover that came with my kit. In 4th with a locked converter I can build boost at like 2k lol. Its not really a bad thing bc boost down low makes gobs of tq and thats how you bend rods lol. Also I would look into getting a better tire, the NT05 I haven't heard that many great reviews about. I was considering them when I was getting new tires for this very problem. I was steered away from them (didn't take that much bc I ran 555s back in the day and they sucked big ***** at the track) Instead I was told to get the MT streets and I did. All i got to say is Holy Crap! I went from spinning at 50% throttle at lowish boost to WOT at 10+psi and no tire spin, the MT streets are no frigin joke. I even kept the same 275 size tire and got massive improvements in grip. Boost hits like a sludge so tire grip is important, ditch the NT05 and get you some MT streets you won't be disappointed. and they have larger rain channels in case you get stuck out in the rain.
the nto5r dead hooked at the track for me when it was only heads and cam with a 3400 yank. I almost went with the mickeys but was trying to save money. I had 555r on the car before the nto5r and the nto5r is waaaaay better. Glad to know about the rain channels. When I burn these off I’ll get the mickeys.
I’m trying to go for the sleeper look
lol
I hope they work with boost! Gona be like 30% power instant when boost hits at 4psi. Mickeys come in thin wall... 45 series on mine are just a tad taller than the 275/40 sumimotos i have on the front. Get it tuned and on the road for some test runs 
For anyone reading this thread wanting an answer to my original question. I could not get it to run correctly with the stock map. I did cut the maf off at the same time. So I’m not sure which one fixed it. But it idles and drives perfect now.
Apologies, not sure why i got so bent out of shape by this post. I see now you were kidding. I guess the car had me stressed out. All is good, in better mood now. Now I see why you've been giving me **** in other threads. I guess I kinda started it. Sorry.
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it's all good bro. like I said, my humor tends to fall flat sometimes. we're good
Just so the OP knows, nobody I am aware of has successfully transplanted a 6l80 into a GTO. I am unclear as to all of the issues, but it seems most have found them insurmountable. Also, it is almost a running joke on this forum to give ddnspider **** about 4l60e transmissions. Nothing in the standard manual of voodoo practicioners explains his luck in holding them together.
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