Hey my boosted buddies. I have a couple questions for you. I just finished my turbo project. 2004 ls1 gto, 7875 single turbo. I have hp tuners. I’ve never tuned a boosted vehicle yet. I have a 4lb spring in the wastegate. I cranked the car yesterday but have not driven it. I would like to Keep it maf for now if possible. So..

how much boost with a stock ls2 (I swapped out the maf) maf read?

Can I use my stock map sensor? If not, I do have a new Cobalt supercharged map sensor. Will my stock operating system run that sensor. Or do I need to download a custom operating system? I didn’t see a COS that supported the maf too.

And say im going to delete my maf. I need a screw in type iat sensor that will plug in to my factory plug. I don’t like cutting wires.

Help if you can. Thanks fellas!

thanks for the useless answer. Your usually pretty helpful so I’ll forgive you. You don’t really know me either so I guess I can’t blame you. The 4l60 has a bad wrap because most people cannot rebuild a stock one for a stock vehicle and it live. I’m not one of those people. I’ve had a few of my units living in 9 second rides. One was a 4000lb car with a lot of nitrous making 750 to the tire. He run the car every weekend at the track and it would live for about 8-10 months. The guy was very abusive too, he broke the 12 bolt rear end more than the transmission so that’s saying something. So to be honest I think with my power level goals I think it’ll live for a while. It is built right now and I’ve been beating the **** out of it. It has not slipped a beat. When it fails, I’ll fix it. If it fails often, which I doubt, then I’ll put a 6l80 in it. Yes. 6l80.

thanks for the reply. I think I’ll be good for now on what I have. I’m seriously not going to push the car hard any time soon. I have no intercooler. Stock driveshaft out of an 06 model. Stock stubs. And the motor is heads and cam so it was already making decent power. At 4000lbs it was trapping 113mph with tuning issues. All I want for now is to trap over 120. That shouldn’t be too hard and it should live for a while like that. Then I’ll upgrade as I go.

I do want a screw in one no matter what. If you seen how I did this setup you’d probably be impressed. I went through great efforts to try and eliminate any potential problems. Here’s a couple pics of you didn’t see the thread.

I’m not stressing nor am I agitated. I guess I didn’t think that the transmission comment wasn’t really necessary, no big deal. No I haven’t got it all figured out. On the trans, yes. But that’s not a issue I’m referring to. And my comment saying I think I’ll be good in what I have now was because of your answer. Because it seems like from what you said, I should be good (considering) the low amount of boost I psi I plan on running. So no worries. I still need a part number for the iat sensor. And to know if I can run the maf on the stock os.

What car she drove? And my wife won’t drive mine. Lol

I’m actually surprised the stock MaF and MAP would even handle 9psi but dndspider knows his **** so... I guess u can. Idk how since the stock map maxed at 105kpa which I guess it makes up for in MAF flow since it pulls main fueling via the MAF if I remember, MAP is used secondary.

looking at your setup you better keep an eye on IAT temps. No IC and I don’t see any room for a Meth bung cuz you’d wipe out the MAF. Your gona be lucky to keep IATs below 160*F.

If your buying HPT or something equivalent why not just upgrade to the 2 bar SD tune and ditch the MAF. Then you can tune actual MAP data above 105kpa and ditch that MAF and clean up the piping. Either way your paying for the OS.

i have hp tuners. Not sure if you knew but the custom operating systems are now free.

I can even get the car to stay running if I give it any pedal. It’ll idle. But that’s it. I didn’t have much time to fool with it. I do know that at idle my maf frequency is about 1000hz higher causing it to run rich. I’ve got a lot to work out evidently. For simplicity I think I’m gonna put my cobalt map in and turn off the maf. I’ll keep it in for now until I get an iat sensor. I can unplug the May card independent of the built in iat.

Btw, haven’t driven it but my iat stayed at 96f at idle. It was about 90 degrees ambient. it would get hotter with my k&n lol. I’ll find out the real deal when I can drive it.

well my original plan was to try and get it to drive with my regular operating system, stock injectors and map just to be able to drive it and keep it out of boost. Yea. Right. I can’t even give it throttle and it wants to die. I thought about tuning it as is by what’s the point if it don’t run? I might as well put my map in, change the operating system and put the injectors in at this point. No sense in tuning it twice. Runs real rich at idle. Then give it a little gas in gear it goes real lean and dies. My theory is when I ran a scan last night, the maf Getz is higher because the turbo is blowing air across it at idle.

i have paid paid for credits long ago when I bought this car. I think I had the car two days and then started tuning on it. Lol.

It has ported 243’s, btr stage 2 ls1 cam. Stall. Built trans. etc etc.. I started on my 2 bar is tune last night just working on a safe base map. Your probably right about the heat. But it won’t hurt to try it on 4lbs. There’s plenty of cars that are non intercooled and they do just fine. Not trying or meaning to be a smart ***. The car was already decently quick as it was so 4-6lbs ought to be interesting. This is a learn as I go type thing. I’ll never learn if I don’t try. Just like intercooling. Or not. I’ll see what I can get away with and what I can’t. I know you don’t know me, but I’m not the average tinkerer. I don’t know everything I’ll readily admit. I’m not perfect either. But what I do know is I like to learn and I’m new to this. I’ve been messing with n/a and n2o setups since I was about 19. I’m 41 (I’m not rooting my own horn, just giving some info about myself) now and it’s time for me to get with the times. Boosting is evidently the way to go, it’s hard to be competitive n/a these days. Don’t take anything I say the wrong way, I don’t have it all figured out, I still need help on lining this thing out.

My initial plan was an intercooler. Then meth. Then nothing for now because I’ve run out of time. I’ve been building this crap for two months. I’ve redone things a few times because I didn’t like something or felt it wouldn’t be good enough. My goal is to have a decently powered reliable m driver that will at least outrun most of the newer muscle cars. I’m not trying to run 9’s. If it runs a 10.80, I’ll be ecstatic. I’m not sure what cooking method I’m going to use, I really don’t want to cut up my car so that’s what’s making the decision harder.

makes me feel better to read this. I was thinking something else is wrong. But I wasn’t sure. My car ran perfect before I did the turbo. And now it doesn’t. But I’ve yet to start tuning.