Supercharger ONLY.....why do profess boost engine builders say different things???
I will make 20psi or a tad more with a different pulley combo. Possibly better heads than they had. Bigger LT headers. Bigger TB. And Harrop is sending me their 1 inch spacer which gives more plenum volume and it will fit under the cowl too with the Hawks Performance cowl mod (retaining the wipers).
So I hope I can make just 50-100 more HP to get me to 1,100 RWHP or close, with 3psi more. As far as the massive torque that this thing should make, as you mentioned, I think if I just get lucky and hit 1,000 RWHP, that along with that massive torque should be an insane set up.
Could always drop a 150 shot on it......lol
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Last edited by LS6427; Sep 6, 2018 at 06:28 PM.
What’s is this going in? I wouldn’t worry too much about the psi number. Some setups can make the same power with more/less psi than the other because it’s just a measure of restriction.
Car in sig. 1998 WS6 Trans Am.
Only additions to the sig below is a BMR tunnel-mount torque arm. Carbon fiber drive shaft. 335 tires for daily normal driving. Slicks/drags for racing. Brake booster brace.
Until you experience the difference first hand between larger cubes and smaller cubes using the same supercharger, it can be difficult to explain or comprehend .
Most of the times they will make relatively the same peak HP.
The tq.and hp across the board will be quite different though.
Most of the times they will make relatively the same peak HP.
The tq.and hp across the board will be quite different though.
I already have my big 335/30/18 pure street radial Michelin Pilot Sports (18 x 12.5 rims) that I will use for almost all of my daily driving. Of course, they will not hook at any speed.......but they will look amazing, they will offer more traction than the other sized tires, handle well and stop a bit better. My offset LCAs are here and I have to do a simple plasma cut on each inner wheel well and they will fit. Possibly use a 15mm spacer to set the tire wall perfectly even with the fender like factory if needed. About 1 hour each side. No mini tub needed. They will tuck perfectly even with the fender like factory.
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9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron
A lot of people here in the UK rate the PS2's very highly for the road.
I've never used them myself, but did try some of the Pilot Sport Cup's a few years ago and they were dreadful. Maybe they'd come alive after a few track laps, but for normal cold street use they were dangerous.
In some tests, the Michelins always fair very well.
I've never used them myself, but did try some of the Pilot Sport Cup's a few years ago and they were dreadful. Maybe they'd come alive after a few track laps, but for normal cold street use they were dangerous.
In some tests, the Michelins always fair very well.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
No, but it is true what ddnspider said.....a couple more pounds will make more power, thats for sure. 3 psi is a nice increase.
Car in sig. 1998 WS6 Trans Am.
Only additions to the sig below is a BMR tunnel-mount torque arm. Carbon fiber drive shaft. 335 tires for daily normal driving. Slicks/drags for racing. Brake booster brace.
Car in sig. 1998 WS6 Trans Am.
Only additions to the sig below is a BMR tunnel-mount torque arm. Carbon fiber drive shaft. 335 tires for daily normal driving. Slicks/drags for racing. Brake booster brace.
But with an additional 300 + rwhp and huge increase in torque over what most well built 4l60e can manage (650-700 maybe) I think you will have to find a replacement. They don't handle much rpm over 6400 either. But maybe the builders have found a way to overcome that threshold.
As stated previously - will have to keep us updated about fit and finish and installation of the Hawks modification for the fbody.
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Your sig doesn't provide any details about your current 4l60e.
But with an additional 300 + rwhp and huge increase in torque over what most well built 4l60e can manage (650-700 maybe) I think you will have to find a replacement. They don't handle much rpm over 6400 either. But maybe the builders have found a way to overcome that threshold.
As stated previously - will have to keep us updated about fit and finish and installation of the Hawks modification for the fbody.
But with an additional 300 + rwhp and huge increase in torque over what most well built 4l60e can manage (650-700 maybe) I think you will have to find a replacement. They don't handle much rpm over 6400 either. But maybe the builders have found a way to overcome that threshold.
As stated previously - will have to keep us updated about fit and finish and installation of the Hawks modification for the fbody.
"I have a brand new 4L80E level 4....1,500 HP transmission. I also ordered a P59 PCM programmed to work with my 1998 car and new 4L80E segment swap and a new complete wiring harness with a complete 4L80E harness plug-n-play ready to go in."
The Michelin’s are nice but they aren’t gonna hook. I run them up front though. Have 19” NT05R’s on my CCW’s, 19” R888R’s on my Forgestars, and 17” M&H’s when I need all of the traction.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
Been following this thread because of the Hawks fbody cowl modification since so few out there who post about it. But had forgotten about the OP's mod specifics when he started the post.
I need to PM OP about the new wire harness for more details. I still have my 20 year old harness and PCM (1998 Z28). The insulation around the wiring is really getting brittle. For example - I replaced the coil pigtail harness's with new yesterday. It was time for new for sure.
A lot of people here in the UK rate the PS2's very highly for the road.
I've never used them myself, but did try some of the Pilot Sport Cup's a few years ago and they were dreadful. Maybe they'd come alive after a few track laps, but for normal cold street use they were dangerous.
In some tests, the Michelins always fair very well.
I've never used them myself, but did try some of the Pilot Sport Cup's a few years ago and they were dreadful. Maybe they'd come alive after a few track laps, but for normal cold street use they were dangerous.
In some tests, the Michelins always fair very well.
I don't plan to ever try to make them hook under hard throttle...they are just going to be on their for daily driving.
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I need to play around with different drag/slick tires with my other set of matching rear rims (18 x 10.5) so I can get traction for good weather race days.....
Which of those three tires you use hook the best.....?
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Your sig doesn't provide any details about your current 4l60e.
But with an additional 300 + rwhp and huge increase in torque over what most well built 4l60e can manage (650-700 maybe) I think you will have to find a replacement. They don't handle much rpm over 6400 either. But maybe the builders have found a way to overcome that threshold.
As stated previously - will have to keep us updated about fit and finish and installation of the Hawks modification for the fbody.
But with an additional 300 + rwhp and huge increase in torque over what most well built 4l60e can manage (650-700 maybe) I think you will have to find a replacement. They don't handle much rpm over 6400 either. But maybe the builders have found a way to overcome that threshold.
As stated previously - will have to keep us updated about fit and finish and installation of the Hawks modification for the fbody.
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I never plan to try to hook the Michelins....I only have them for daily driving and to get a lot of miles out of them.
I need to play around with different drag/slick tires with my other set of matching rear rims (18 x 10.5) so I can get traction for good weather race days.....
Which of those three tires you use hook the best.....?
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I need to play around with different drag/slick tires with my other set of matching rear rims (18 x 10.5) so I can get traction for good weather race days.....
Which of those three tires you use hook the best.....?
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I can buy an identical matching rim for my rears in 17"....but its only 9.5" wide. Is there a good tire that will fit that rim and hook from a roll?
I could also send it to get widened a little bit if that will be better......17 x 10.5......????
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I forgot this measurement for the LSA.....I have it somewhere.
But I just remember the Harrop measurement.
Harrop 2650 is exactly 262.6mm........from the top of the block (not the valley cover) to the top of the SC'er. Its only a matter of about 9mm higher than the Magnuson TVS2300.
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But I just remember the Harrop measurement.
Harrop 2650 is exactly 262.6mm........from the top of the block (not the valley cover) to the top of the SC'er. Its only a matter of about 9mm higher than the Magnuson TVS2300.
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