Only making full boost uphill under load. Why???
10-19-2018, 07:07 PM
#21
Sounds like a tuning issue to me. Who tuned your setup? . I bet your engines is increasing timing from the load of the hill creating more exhaust pressure to turn your turbine wheel. I may be wrong considering im 100s of miles away and never rode in your setup but worth a try.
You could try dumping more fuel in down low (tune for anti lag) really decrease the timing to create heat if your timing is turned up close to knock as it is.
You can add a boost reference line to the top of the waste gate to help with keeping it closed or use a cheap boost elbow / controller . I really like boost elbows.
You could try dumping more fuel in down low (tune for anti lag) really decrease the timing to create heat if your timing is turned up close to knock as it is.
You can add a boost reference line to the top of the waste gate to help with keeping it closed or use a cheap boost elbow / controller . I really like boost elbows.
Last edited by mrich0908; 10-19-2018 at 07:33 PM.
10-22-2018, 04:14 PM
#23
Sounds like a tuning issue to me. Who tuned your setup? . I bet your engines is increasing timing from the load of the hill creating more exhaust pressure to turn your turbine wheel. I may be wrong considering im 100s of miles away and never rode in your setup but worth a try.
You could try dumping more fuel in down low (tune for anti lag) really decrease the timing to create heat if your timing is turned up close to knock as it is.
You can add a boost reference line to the top of the waste gate to help with keeping it closed or use a cheap boost elbow / controller . I really like boost elbows.
You could try dumping more fuel in down low (tune for anti lag) really decrease the timing to create heat if your timing is turned up close to knock as it is.
You can add a boost reference line to the top of the waste gate to help with keeping it closed or use a cheap boost elbow / controller . I really like boost elbows.
10-22-2018, 08:09 PM
#25
Same here. My previous comment was actually meant to be sarcastic. I can't tell you have many cars I've had come into the shop and the customer says... "It only needs a tune" 7 thousands dollars later...yeah now you are ready for it to be tuned.
10-23-2018, 02:32 PM
#26
Ive seen it before too haha
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headsup9550 (01-25-2021)
10-23-2018, 03:05 PM
#27
That sounds definitely worth trying. I run an e-Boost2 and I'm convinced it also cracks the valves prematurely (not as bad as your though) then shuts allowing a 2psi spike right at TQ peak where you do not want it (detonation territory). I'm going to get a better boost controller
10-23-2018, 03:19 PM
#28
msd power grid is awesome. you program a boost map with standalone software. very simple. my next build will get one.
the eboost 2 is very fiddly. 3 buttons and a metric **** ton of functions. I found it frustrating and sold it. I was kind of nice having a boost gage/controller in one though.
the eboost 2 is very fiddly. 3 buttons and a metric **** ton of functions. I found it frustrating and sold it. I was kind of nice having a boost gage/controller in one though.
10-23-2018, 04:02 PM
#29
msd power grid is awesome. you program a boost map with standalone software. very simple. my next build will get one.
the eboost 2 is very fiddly. 3 buttons and a metric **** ton of functions. I found it frustrating and sold it. I was kind of nice having a boost gage/controller in one though.
the eboost 2 is very fiddly. 3 buttons and a metric **** ton of functions. I found it frustrating and sold it. I was kind of nice having a boost gage/controller in one though.
10-23-2018, 06:39 PM
#30
I was actually talking **** about all the people that bring their half *** internet built car to the dyno and when it runs like ****, "the problem is in the tune" people. But I digress.
Last edited by LilJayV10; 10-23-2018 at 06:53 PM.
10-23-2018, 10:40 PM
#31
cool man. I didn't want you to think I was bashing tuners...well good tuners anyway.
I was actually talking **** about all the people that bring their half *** internet built car to the dyno and when it runs like ****, "the problem is in the tune" people. But I digress.
I was actually talking **** about all the people that bring their half *** internet built car to the dyno and when it runs like ****, "the problem is in the tune" people. But I digress.
10-24-2018, 06:44 AM
#32
I wonder if you can stay long enough in it, it will reach the same boost as
uphill. Going uphill you have a little more load on it, turbo speed vs engine RPM.
I noticed when I ran some num. high rear gears, it would run thru the RPM's quick
but lower boost than num. lower gears. The engine RPM's were outpacing the turbo,
but as I got into higher gears the boost was there.
uphill. Going uphill you have a little more load on it, turbo speed vs engine RPM.
I noticed when I ran some num. high rear gears, it would run thru the RPM's quick
but lower boost than num. lower gears. The engine RPM's were outpacing the turbo,
but as I got into higher gears the boost was there.
10-24-2018, 03:43 PM
#33
I wonder if you can stay long enough in it, it will reach the same boost as
uphill. Going uphill you have a little more load on it, turbo speed vs engine RPM.
I noticed when I ran some num. high rear gears, it would run thru the RPM's quick
but lower boost than num. lower gears. The engine RPM's were outpacing the turbo,
but as I got into higher gears the boost was there.
uphill. Going uphill you have a little more load on it, turbo speed vs engine RPM.
I noticed when I ran some num. high rear gears, it would run thru the RPM's quick
but lower boost than num. lower gears. The engine RPM's were outpacing the turbo,
but as I got into higher gears the boost was there.
Unhook the reference line and it would boost to 20 instantly in any gear, though i didnt try 2nd. EBC solves the problem yet again lol. Keeps the gate from cracking at lower boost until your spring pressure is met
10-24-2018, 06:41 PM
#34
Went through a similar issue with my Vs 78/75 cast turbo.
I run a HKS 60mm clone and with a 12psi spring I was only getting 6psi at WOT through a full 3” catback. Installing a electric cutout 7-8ft behind the turbo or about half way through the catback with no Other changes back to back it goes from 6psi to 8.5psi and spoils faster and harder (audible with cutout open). Installed a AEM truboost and it spools harder and faster than without.
A big problem with WG is heavy spring pressure as it can cause flutter etc around the spring pressure. It’s safer to under spring it and use a boost controller on top to simulate increased spring pressure. Love my truboost controller, eboost2 is a nice setup with lots of features that I would
never need.
I run a HKS 60mm clone and with a 12psi spring I was only getting 6psi at WOT through a full 3” catback. Installing a electric cutout 7-8ft behind the turbo or about half way through the catback with no Other changes back to back it goes from 6psi to 8.5psi and spoils faster and harder (audible with cutout open). Installed a AEM truboost and it spools harder and faster than without.
A big problem with WG is heavy spring pressure as it can cause flutter etc around the spring pressure. It’s safer to under spring it and use a boost controller on top to simulate increased spring pressure. Love my truboost controller, eboost2 is a nice setup with lots of features that I would
never need.
10-25-2018, 04:22 PM
#35
Went through a similar issue with my Vs 78/75 cast turbo.
I run a HKS 60mm clone and with a 12psi spring I was only getting 6psi at WOT through a full 3” catback. Installing a electric cutout 7-8ft behind the turbo or about half way through the catback with no Other changes back to back it goes from 6psi to 8.5psi and spoils faster and harder (audible with cutout open). Installed a AEM truboost and it spools harder and faster than without.
A big problem with WG is heavy spring pressure as it can cause flutter etc around the spring pressure. It’s safer to under spring it and use a boost controller on top to simulate increased spring pressure. Love my truboost controller, eboost2 is a nice setup with lots of features that I would
never need.
I run a HKS 60mm clone and with a 12psi spring I was only getting 6psi at WOT through a full 3” catback. Installing a electric cutout 7-8ft behind the turbo or about half way through the catback with no Other changes back to back it goes from 6psi to 8.5psi and spoils faster and harder (audible with cutout open). Installed a AEM truboost and it spools harder and faster than without.
A big problem with WG is heavy spring pressure as it can cause flutter etc around the spring pressure. It’s safer to under spring it and use a boost controller on top to simulate increased spring pressure. Love my truboost controller, eboost2 is a nice setup with lots of features that I would
never need.
I was about to order the truboost as it looks really nice and simple, but for $250 a near new eboost2 was what i decided on. I can always sell it if i dont like it. Its better than nothing thats for sure. The fancy features will be there should i ever decide to use them.
Thank you for your reply. Good info
11-09-2018, 08:39 AM
#37
There should be a 'gate spring pressure' setting on your EBC. basically it will hold the gate completely closed until you reach that setting. With just a spring and a reference line, the valve can open just a little, letting exhaust bypass the turbo and making the response slower. Going uphill, or adding more load, will mask this problem since the engine is making more heat and working harder. With the EBC the gate is either open or closed. Fixed the problem for me. Zero lag, near instant response
Last edited by SiskMan; 11-09-2018 at 08:45 AM.
11-09-2018, 08:07 PM
#38
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That's good news! Mine doesn't have the gate spring option, but you can leave the duty cycle at 0 and still adjust the gain. Hopefully it works the way I'm thinking it will, would be nice to be able to footbrake more then 6 psi.
11-13-2018, 08:26 AM
#39
Looking at the GFB instructions, the Gain looks like what im talking about. Same thing just different name