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And also might just want to Decap your 45 pound injectors they should get you around maybe a hundred pounds save a little money going that way versus paying three four bucks for 80 pound injectors
You might want to check out sloppy mechanics and check-out vsracing 4 turbo kits good prices and sloppy Mechanics for all the information use 78-75 turbo and you should be good around 6:50 700 horsepower
Sloopy always has good information. I'll buy the turbo from Huron Speed cause it's at the same price, included in the kit and I will not have to pay extra for shipping.
Originally Posted by roadhammerr
You could also look into a 4 L 80 transmission they're pretty cheap and the hold all the power that you need your 4 l60e won't hold that power
Thats the modern th400. I like it too. I hope the 4l60 last me at least a freaking year
Originally Posted by roadhammerr
And also might just want to Decap your 45 pound injectors they should get you around maybe a hundred pounds save a little money going that way versus paying three four bucks for 80 pound injectors
I know I can decap my injectors but I do not know if it will be safe to do it in a car thats using e85.
So I went to the track last Friday and I made 4 NA passes. 2 of them were against a heads and cam corvette. The 11.6 pass the corvette was NA and the 11.9 the corvette was using nitrous. Other 2 passes were garbage (spinning).
Can anyone tell me why the first pass of 11.6 was only 111mph and the 2nd one that was slower 11.9 was 116?
Looks like to me he let off. Look at the 60ft and 1/8 mile mph. His is greater but then the 1/4mph is less on his end. So either let off or had an issue or the car fell on its face.
Looks like to me he let off. Look at the 60ft and 1/8 mile mph. His is greater but then the 1/4mph is less on his end. So either let off or had an issue or the car fell on its face.
I had a better 60. He ran a 12.1 at 116 and I ran an 11.6 at 111, my question is why the mph are so low on this pass? when on the second pass I ran 11.9 at 116.
Last edited by chicofiebru; Oct 29, 2018 at 04:53 PM.
No prob man I think the car might have an 11.4 in it, but they closed the track after that, so that was my last pass. I have an old Chris1313 intake that I might use if I'm able to go next friday.
Sometimes if you spin and hook your MPH would go up, but I would think that your 1/8 mile MPH would be higher as well. Almost looks like a misread at the traps.
Sometimes if you spin and hook your MPH would go up, but I would think that your 1/8 mile MPH would be higher as well. Almost looks like a misread at the traps.
I hope it was that Two cars broke and I had to wait until they cleaned the track again, and that was the only two good passes I had. At least I'm happy with my 1.7 60ft. 10 bolt survive
Speaking from personal experience the 98 car can give you some grief depending on what route you decide to take. Mine sure did! But most of them aren’t terrible to overcome if you put your mind to it.
My biggest struggle was the factory 98 pcm.
First issue i ran into with this was when my car was still manual, I couldn’t get the deka 80’s to idle at an afr higher than 11.8:1 on pump 93.
The next issue i had was to get it to control the 4l80 that I wanted. I could have gone the route of a th400 and never thought about it, but I wanted overdrive and converter lockup. So i took the time and with a link I found on here i repinned my stock 98 harnss to work using a 99+ pcm. This alone was probably my favorite thing i did with the car. It allowed me to run a p59 pcm that can do much more than the 98 ever could. Now my car is flex fuel capable and is on 3 bar! So not only can I control my 4l80 i can switch between e85 or 91 depending on what im doing. For what im doing the 4l80 was the better choice of a trans for me. I was able to get the over drive I wanted (i drive the car on long trips) and i can lock my converter at wot. On the dyno locking my converter was good for 50ish whp and at the track 2-3mph.
The next struggle was getting a decent fuel system in the car. Now with a walbro 450 in my stock 98 tank and stock sender i was able to run a personal best of a 10.2@136-138 on straight pump e85. (The pump and deka’s were very maxed out. Like 120% duty cycle) so to get something clean i ended up doing a tank swap with a 99+ and going with the squash twin 450’s. It is a very nice and easy to install kit and I should be able to grow into the fuel system for a while.
As far as cams go there are quite a few off the shelf grinds that have proven themselves many times. I have the ljms stage 2 turbo cam. The way my car is setup now it runs 9.67@146 off the foot brake/2 step
Speaking from personal experience the 98 car can give you some grief depending on what route you decide to take. Mine sure did! But most of them aren’t terrible to overcome if you put your mind to it.
My biggest struggle was the factory 98 pcm.
First issue i ran into with this was when my car was still manual, I couldn’t get the deka 80’s to idle at an afr higher than 11.8:1 on pump 93.
The next issue i had was to get it to control the 4l80 that I wanted. I could have gone the route of a th400 and never thought about it, but I wanted overdrive and converter lockup. So i took the time and with a link I found on here i repinned my stock 98 harnss to work using a 99+ pcm. This alone was probably my favorite thing i did with the car. It allowed me to run a p59 pcm that can do much more than the 98 ever could. Now my car is flex fuel capable and is on 3 bar! So not only can I control my 4l80 i can switch between e85 or 91 depending on what im doing. For what im doing the 4l80 was the better choice of a trans for me. I was able to get the over drive I wanted (i drive the car on long trips) and i can lock my converter at wot. On the dyno locking my converter was good for 50ish whp and at the track 2-3mph.
The next struggle was getting a decent fuel system in the car. Now with a walbro 450 in my stock 98 tank and stock sender i was able to run a personal best of a 10.2@136-138 on straight pump e85. (The pump and deka’s were very maxed out. Like 120% duty cycle) so to get something clean i ended up doing a tank swap with a 99+ and going with the squash twin 450’s. It is a very nice and easy to install kit and I should be able to grow into the fuel system for a while.
As far as cams go there are quite a few off the shelf grinds that have proven themselves many times. I have the ljms stage 2 turbo cam. The way my car is setup now it runs 9.67@146 off the foot brake/2 step
I had to swap my computer a few years ago. The one I have now is 2000 or 2002.
A 4L80 is what I really want, but they are still expensive. When I bought the transmission that I have now, I could have bought a TH400, but the car was basically stock, so I did not do it. But I like the idea of having a transmission that works well in long trips or just cruising and also at the track. Eventually I want to make my car flex fuel capable too.
I have a 450 for now, I was thinking about upgrading to 2 255s but I think 2 450s will be a better idea.
I may go with either a LJMS stage 2 turbo cam, a stage 2 turbo cam from Cam Motion or with a custon spec turbo cam from Texas Speed.
9.6 -> thats pretty good! Thanks for the info!
I had to swap my computer a few years ago. The one I have now is 2000 or 2002.
A 4L80 is what I really want, but they are still expensive. When I bought the transmission that I have now, I could have bought a TH400, but the car was basically stock, so I did not do it. But I like the idea of having a transmission that works well in long trips or just cruising and also at the track. Eventually I want to make my car flex fuel capable too.
I have a 450 for now, I was thinking about upgrading to 2 255s but I think 2 450s will be a better idea.
I may go with either a LJMS stage 2 turbo cam, a stage 2 turbo cam from Cam Motion or with a custon spec turbo cam from Texas Speed.
9.6 -> thats pretty good! Thanks for the info!
Maybe its just my area but i only paid $300 for my 4l80. And they are plentiful at the yards near me for less than 6-700 with the core charge. Mine is stock with unknown mileage (guy said 150k but im not sure) with a hd2 shift kit and yank 3600 stall.
Maybe its just my area but i only paid $300 for my 4l80. And they are plentiful at the yards near me for less than 6-700 with the core charge. Mine is stock with unknown mileage (guy said 150k but im not sure) with a hd2 shift kit and yank 3600 stall.
Well locally I have not checked, I have only verified the ones that the sponsors sell here. But I will check, maybe they are almost at the same price. Did you put the hd2 shift kit yourself? Wonder how much cheaper will it be, because right now the cheapest I've seen has been like 3500, and at that price I prefer the TH400 that I've seen them for 1800 and 2500 rated for a 1000hp. What kind of vehicle did you get yours? what year?
So when is the turbo build commencing? if your going to piece it together i can post a list of **** youll need.
here you go anyway just in case. I’m doing the same turbo setup for a buddy of mine so I made this list.
-On3 84mm billet wheel 950hp $889 with ceramic bearings
or on3 7875 $399 cast wheel
-On3 fitting kit feed plate and drain plate and gaskets $35
Ace race:
2.25 flex bellow $34
1.5” sch10 90 elbow long radius $26.75 (5)
2.5 to 1.5 concentric reducer $41.95
2.5” sch10 pipe 1ft $16.56
2.5” 45 Elbow $15.55 (2) $31.10
2.5 short radius 90 $25
1.75 flex coupler $32.55
$1131.91
24” oil feel line $23.95
-4 an to 1/8” fitting $4.45
Blow off valve and pipe $33.56
Waste gate $57.98
O2 bungs $13
Rubber block $13.49
4” mishimoto clamp $7
T4 flange $58.29
2.5” 45 silicon elbow $8
3” oval stainless with two round converters $135.15
3” oval 90 $85.41
2.25” stainless exhaust tubing kit $165
Drain hose $5
4” 45 aluminum tubing $25
Stainless 1.75 tubing for wastegate ~$75
Air filter k&n rg1001rd $33.30
1 7/8” stainless header flange $70
Exhaust studs $25.25
Man I was supposed to make the order on Friday, but I dont have all the funds yet, I hope to do it at the latest next Friday. I'm going to buy the HuronSpeed kit, I think it's already quite complete. I dont want to start ordering parts here and there from Huron because I know I'm going to start taking everything apart without having the complete kit, then I'm going to want to go to the track before it's closed until next year and I'm not going to be able to. But I know I'm going to need some things from this list, you know how it is. Are you working on the new build already? you are doing all the tubing right?
Well locally I have not checked, I have only verified the ones that the sponsors sell here. But I will check, maybe they are almost at the same price. Did you put the hd2 shift kit yourself? Wonder how much cheaper will it be, because right now the cheapest I've seen has been like 3500, and at that price I prefer the TH400 that I've seen them for 1800 and 2500 rated for a 1000hp. What kind of vehicle did you get yours? what year?
Yea i put the hd2 kit in myself. It’s pretty easy actually. With the shift kit, converter, and the trans im ~$1600 invested in my trans. Mine came from a 98 silverado 2500
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Two cars broke and I had to wait until they cleaned the track again, and that was the only two good passes I had. At least I'm happy with my 1.7 60ft. 10 bolt survive 
will be a better idea.