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Hi,
had less time due to family issues, getting neat now....i hope....
Need ideas on what to put around blow off valve if anthing?
also want to put sonething over first few inches of oil feed near turbo....
regards
gav
Does this seem a plan?
First run up check oil pressure, af ratio ok, cooling fans bring down temp etc.
Then connect fpr vacuum line( i have to alter tune then? Have efilive), this has never been connected previously.
run for a bit tuning (out of boost)
i only have 2 psi springs in each wastegate...
Then try 2 bar map sensor i have and run for a bit to see if ok.
Then for boost, i need to buy 60 or 80 injectors and install tune them...
Then fit EBC and set boost levels...
i dont want to make too many changes at once being a novice
seems reasonable, just remember anytime you change sensors/injectors/etc. you will need to tune for it, so you may want to add a step to tune for the 2 bar as well.
if it makes you feel any better I'm doing a cheap GT45 on my stock bottom end LS1 as well and it should be goof for 800FWHP max. You can probably get some of the laziness out of it by bumping up the boost a bit and running better gas (e85 in my case). I'm going to run decapped stock truck injectors on mine because I hate the thought of spending that kind of money on them. Check this out: https://www.facebook.com/groups/285371198529480/ guy on there named Eric Derr (https://www.facebook.com/groups/2853...00010167097039) will take your injectors, clean them, flow them and get you a reasonably matched set if you can provide him some extras, all for $10/injector plus $10 for shipping and he's a fantastic resource for all things injector related
another good resource: Look up Richard Holdner on Youtube and watch some of the LS videos. He tends to skip over the aluminum block LS1 a lot likely because its probably the weakest of the bunch but there's a lot of good info there!
Hi,
thanks for that.
800fwhp...stock....? Jeez i would wreck chassis, rear axke, diff, drive shaft, t56 (600hp) and diamond stage 2 clutch if i dont blow my motors pistons first...
im gunning for 500 rwhp to 550 max with higher tq values...and drivable..
Decap my ls2 injectors....hmmmm.(i have a ls2 intake on btw for my holley 90mm tb)
was going to buy siemens dekka 60 or 80lb ones.
regards
gav
Hi,
starting to look at tune now.
attached is my cos3 na tune.
and a screenshot of current afr b3647 table
so, do i need to drop the last two columns down to 11.5 afr ish, or should i only command that low an afr when i get into boost?
also need to drop timing down
then could do some logging out of boost to start with
Regards
gav
hello,
ok from searching have dropped last column of commanded afr to 11.8
have flat lined IFR table and will connect manifold ref pipe to regulator.
Cant seem to find much on where to start spark high table at as dont know where boost will start.
remember only got 2psi springs in for now and will be max 8 psi with boost controller by gear when finished.
attached is high spark table from my NA tune
what grams per cyl would i start reducing spark and how much as safety net to start?
Regards
gav
I think you're going to have to do a careful test drive , making sure you're logging g /cyl and MAP among other things. Try to achieve 0 vac / boost at various rpm and you will now know when boost starts on your timing table . There are a lot of variables that go into that g/cyl calculation and the only way ( that I know of ) to know whatvyour combo is doing is to log it . Some combos max out the g/cyl at a couple lbs boost , it can be scaled though - think don't spider has a tutorial on this
Just checked a recent log of a pull , starts to go positive pressure @ 2200 g/cyl is .64 at that time. 4640 rpm @151 kpa is 1.02 g/cyl 5419 rpm 182 kpa 1.21 g/cyl ( that's max g/cyl on the timing tables) 6000 rpm 199kpa 1.32 g/cyl . All combos will be different, but if you can log a full rpm range pull while feathering the throttle to get 0 vac / boost you'll have a good handle on where you are on the g/cyl chart for timing purposes.
Hello,
running it in out of boost for now...
I am getting smoke from inside my turbo blanket...
nothing visual outside the exhaust tailpipe thpugh...
i replaced the oil feed with a solid line as i thought the teflon pipe was failing from the heat and thought id fixed it but after another semi sprited run up to 100kpa its smoking again...
could it be lack of oil? I drilled the oil inlet to around 3mm
also did i need to seal the center housing to the compressor and exhaust housings? I just rotated them and nipped them up...
car wants to go when increasing throttle slightly....
have 12 an straight drain and mighty mouse catch can
Why meeeeeee
regards
gavin
If there is no visible oil coming out of anywhere its likely the blanket getting hot and burning off excess oil fibers etc... Just run it! lol. The smoke will either go away... or get worse. Not alot you can do at this point. FWIW that turbo shouldn't be restricted at all. But I doubt thats your issue. SUPER typical for the hotside and all parts esp blankets to smoke a bit, esp when they are new and being heat cycled. Turbo is liekly just starting to get hot at 100kpa. That's not even in boost yet.
Hi,
so glad you replied.
Hate being a newb and not know whats normal or not...
will keep checking it.
god i hope thats all it is and smoking each time i take it slightly hotter..
regards
gavin
Hello,
Hope someone could provide some input.
Only just gone to 2 psi in low revs as still on stock injectors but they seem to be low on INJ duty cycle so far, only had 54% in another run
It feels bloody fast.... thats the good bit so far...
The bad getting weird knock so this is where i need more help.
Its knocking where i am not expecting it to but i am a newb anyway, its just from reading lots and lots on here...
2 psi springs in atm and no boost control
It still smokes but not as much until i go higher and higher up the rev range.
Have attached log and tune it was knocking on
Only doing bursts in 5th atm as 4th worried about spinning tyres.
If i can reduce this knock then will progress up the RPM range
Have also attached a log where i have richened it up abit where its knocking, timing seems ok...?
Obviously the tune 0009 is where i have richened..
Any help greatly appreciated, beg beg...
Regards
Gav
Hello,
More knock.
Have disabled burst knock by zero the timing reduction table which has helped.
Got this on a run tonight.
Any ideas why?
Regards
gav
At that level the plugs should be fine. I'll try to help with your tune , not efi live here. Lots of things can trigger the knock sensors, like valvetrain noise or anything in the drivetrain hitting chassis. Some reduce knock sensor sensitivity, I did mine a bit. For safety sake let's assume your settings are good. From your data log it looks like a pretty steady 1psi pull , and that timing doesn't seem to be too much , only pulled ~2° it appears so at that rpm/ load it could be ( these things don't need much advance) you need to log the g/cyl data so you can see exactly where that is in the timing table then you can take out a degree or 2 at that spot and blend that change into the table - basically as rpm goes up advance goes up as load goes up advance goes down . Compression ratio, cam , coolant temp , intake air temp , a/f ratio all factor in . Always save the old tune when changing so you can easily reverse your changes if unsuccessful. Hope this helps , no expert here just made mine and some friends work
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