Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

LQ4 ring gap too large?

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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 06:18 AM
  #21  
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From: Norn Iron
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Originally Posted by epfatboy
cool idea, I’d like to see crank case pressure measured. My nitrous motor was hemorrhaging oil from every orafice until I put a vacuum pump on it. I suspect this was in part due to the ring gap.
I would doubt it was ring gap.

More bore finish/ring sealing around the other 99.7% of the ring contact area, as well as tune etc.

Even say a 40 thou gap....1mm relative to a 315mm circumference.....really isnt a lot. And it is roughly above...0.3% So the difference between a 20 thou gap and a 40 thou gap ?

0.15% difference

And then there's the 2nd ring, and the labyrinth path for combustion to get past with the ring gaps hopefully at 180deg apart ( although they will rotate in operation )

But it would make for a great test for them. As great as some of the shows are....some have been a little boring and very run of the mill parts swapping
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by freeky
i got a 225000 mile 5.3 lm7 im not even gonna check ring gap . it didnt smoke or knock when pulled . so im gonna send it with a 7875 turbo . only gonna be making 10-12 lbs of boost tho

that works well . but if you want to really turn it up pull the pistons and get the rings cleaned up . I have never taken apart a ls engine with over 100k that did not have carboned up stuck rings.the engines I clean and re assemble seem to really hold up well .
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by yenkomike
that works well . but if you want to really turn it up pull the pistons and get the rings cleaned up . I have never taken apart a ls engine with over 100k that did not have carboned up stuck rings.the engines I clean and re assemble seem to really hold up well .
When u say clean and re assemble do u mean using the same bearings and rod bolts in the exact same place? Or do u mean replacing everything and re conditioning the rods. Thnx
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by yenkomike
that works well . but if you want to really turn it up pull the pistons and get the rings cleaned up . I have never taken apart a ls engine with over 100k that did not have carboned up stuck rings.the engines I clean and re assemble seem to really hold up well .
I agree with this. Some of the rings were so crusty that they were stuck to the pistons, especially the oil ring, that thing was a pain to clean.
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Old Apr 8, 2019 | 11:37 AM
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I bought an LQ4 that had been in a car that was burned-when I pulled the heads the cyl walls
were rusted. I honed the **** out of it, still had some pits, but bought new rings, checked gap,
they were north of .030, lol. Threw it together and ran it on boost, no problems. I had some smoke
but it was the PCV sucking oil, but thought it was the rings, lol.
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Old Apr 8, 2019 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Although it'd be a lot of work, it'd be a nice one for Engine Masters. Start with some nice tight gaps...and then pull it apart and do a few pulls opening up the gaps say 5 to 10 thou at a time and see what happens.
Some did. I just can’t find the article. Up to .100 and power variation was negligible.
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Old Apr 9, 2019 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Stonerracing
When u say clean and re assemble do u mean using the same bearings and rod bolts in the exact same place? Or do u mean replacing everything and re conditioning the rods. Thnx
I'm curious, too. Anyone?
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Old Apr 9, 2019 | 01:04 PM
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Here’s my thoughts on any sbe build. Most of the time they’ve got quite few miles on em. Pull it apart, clean everything real good and reassemble. Same bolts, bearings (maybe), pistons, etc. That way you know the gallows are clean, you get to see the bearing condition or maybe just catch something before it goes south. People’s vehicle maintenance habits sometimes fall short. No reason to make it your problem. Hell, my grandfather changed oil twice a year. And that’s if he went on a fishing trip!
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Old Apr 9, 2019 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Stonerracing
When u say clean and re assemble do u mean using the same bearings and rod bolts in the exact same place? Or do u mean replacing everything and re conditioning the rods. Thnx
Originally Posted by BlwnLs1GTO
I'm curious, too. Anyone?
Last couple that we did was just that...Clean all the carbon out, wash it all down good to remove any sludge, old oil etc Put it back together with the original rings, pistons, rods, bearings, bolts, all of it. We just kept track of what rings came from what piston, what rod bearing came from what rod, what rod/piston came from what bore, and what main bearing came out of what main...Only put on new gaskets. Last one was a 240k mile 5.3 and the bearings looked nearly new. No pitting or marks at all. The other was a boosted 5.3 that made good power (650ish) and never hurt any parts.
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Old Apr 9, 2019 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by aggie91
Last couple that we did was just that...Clean all the carbon out, wash it all down good to remove any sludge, old oil etc Put it back together with the original rings, pistons, rods, bearings, bolts, all of it. We just kept track of what rings came from what piston, what rod bearing came from what rod, what rod/piston came from what bore, and what main bearing came out of what main...Only put on new gaskets. Last one was a 240k mile 5.3 and the bearings looked nearly new. No pitting or marks at all. The other was a boosted 5.3 that made good power (650ish) and never hurt any parts.
Its the way to go IMO.
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Old Apr 29, 2019 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Its a sign to run more boost
God is literally telling you to turn it up, ask and ye shall receive.
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