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'90 s10 build

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Old Dec 12, 2019 | 03:17 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Dragframe
huh? 180mph With a stock bottom end 5.3?
I guess I forgot it was a sbe. Yeah the guy I am referring to has rods/pistons in it.
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Old Dec 12, 2019 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 9outofs10
Chassis comes tomorrow, so I spent the past couple of days getting the frame ready for it. I had to extend it about 20". I still have to finish welding and boxing it in. These angled tube cuts are time consuming though. I hate posting unfinished work, but I guess it's just the name of the game.

I personally LOVE it when guys post pics of their work in progress. I haven't done a build in awhile, but on my last build, I posted quite a few pics of the build as it went.
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Old Dec 14, 2019 | 03:30 PM
  #63  
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Finally received my chassis this morning. Couldn't wait to get it cut and tacked up
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Old Dec 14, 2019 | 04:56 PM
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Keep it up
what are you doing at the back?
Also what are you doing for a box floor?
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Old Dec 14, 2019 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by orange88ls1s-dime
Keep it up
what are you doing at the back?
Also what are you doing for a box floor?
Fuel cell, round tube to tie the box in and still deciding on battery location. No floor, just tubs.
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Old Dec 14, 2019 | 05:51 PM
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This has kinda been my inspiration.
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Old Dec 14, 2019 | 08:20 PM
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Do you happen to know what weighed be you started disassembling it
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Old Dec 14, 2019 | 08:43 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by 9outofs10
Fuel cell, round tube to tie the box in and still deciding on battery location. No floor, just tubs.
I would advise against no floor
Might be ok if you are only planning on running 12s but if it's gonna fly then it will be beneficial to spend some time with a sheet of Allstar aluminum and some pop rivets.
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Old Dec 14, 2019 | 08:44 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by 9outofs10
Fuel cell, round tube to tie the box in and still deciding on battery location. No floor, just tubs.
I would advise against no floor
Might be ok if you are only planning on running 12s but if it's gonna fly then it will be beneficial to spend some time with a sheet of Allstar aluminum and some pop rivets.
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Old Dec 15, 2019 | 12:20 PM
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Couldn't sleep so...




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Old Dec 15, 2019 | 05:36 PM
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Looking good
not sure but they may not pass the rear strut bars as they must be no lower than 4" of the top of the main hoop
Are you going to do an x or tri x in the middle of the strut bars?
If so that might appeal to their rule
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Old Dec 15, 2019 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by orange88ls1s-dime
Looking good
not sure but they may not pass the rear strut bars as they must be no lower than 4" of the top of the main hoop
Are you going to do an x or tri x in the middle of the strut bars?
If so that might appeal to their rule
I think it's 5 inches but they're 3.5 and 31 degrees of angle
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Old Dec 15, 2019 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by orange88ls1s-dime
Looking good
not sure but they may not pass the rear strut bars as they must be no lower than 4" of the top of the main hoop
Are you going to do an x or tri x in the middle of the strut bars?
If so that might appeal to their rule
Thought I replied to this but don't see it. I'll be doing a x brace with the strut bars as well. Everything is tacked in if I have to make any adjustments.. plus I ran out of mig gas.

I'm going to mount my fuel cell and build a parachute mount next.
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Old Dec 16, 2019 | 10:15 AM
  #74  
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I'm floating around ideas how I want to lay things out, like fuel cell, bed mounting, battery, etc. Talking to orange, I'm trying to think of a way to get as much weight over the rear end, without putting too much in the back of it. This is just something I'm brainstorming.

Red is where the fuel cell is mounted
Blue will be the bed mount for the rear
I'll be deleting the bars from the bed mount location back
Black X are will additional crossmembers will be

I'm kind of debating on whether or not to leave the whole back open and remove the tailgate and bumper... I just realized the bumper is needed since it will be driven on the street.

Last edited by 9outofs10; Dec 16, 2019 at 10:23 AM.
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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 10:50 AM
  #75  
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Man this chassis stuff is time consuming. But I'm almost there.. just 3 bars left then I can fully weld it all together. My 4 link kit (Competition Engineering Magnum kit) should be coming in next week. I'm also rethinking/redesigning the wishbone pan hard setup I have tacked up.


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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 12:56 PM
  #76  
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Is this your first crack at doing chassis work? Just curious, if so it looks like you've done your homework. Yes, cutting, fitting the bars is a very time consuming process for sure! Looking good, keep up the good work!
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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 01:44 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by rpturbo
Is this your first crack at doing chassis work? Just curious, if so it looks like you've done your homework. Yes, cutting, fitting the bars is a very time consuming process for sure! Looking good, keep up the good work!
It is, and thank you. I've probably sent more hours reading/researching chassis designs than I have building this. Frankly, I'm a bit nervous to see how it'll perform at the track. That's what differs between the professionals and DIY'ers. They can look at something know whether or not it'll work, whereas this is complete trial and error for me.
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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 02:49 PM
  #78  
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I'd like to get this rolling by end of this month, but more realistically next month so I can drive down to PA to have Denmah tune it.
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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 03:55 PM
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So I do have a question for the suspension experts.. my original idea for a panhard bar was do something like this... but my father seems to think I'm going to have binding issues with my parallel 4 link. I sort of understand where he's coming from (forward and back movement.. not lateral, at different suspension angles). So I'm curious if anyone has done this, or has experience with this design?

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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 04:13 PM
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A parallel 4-link requires a panhard bar to keep the axle located laterally. These do have some binding issues on turns (chassis roll), but not so on acceleration and deceleration. This looks like more of a drag truck, and a parallel 4-link would be fine. Sometimes one link bar is "pre-loaded" to alter how straight the vehicle launches.

A triangulated 4-link does not require a panhard bar, as the triangulation locates the axle laterally. There is much less binding on roll. This suspension should be the lightest.

A 3-link simplifies adjustments in that you would only need to adjust the center link to change pinion angle or instant center (or both), but you would need a panhard again for lateral location. I -think- you would still be able to pre-load one of the parallel links for tuning if you had to. Though there is an optimal location for the center link based on track width (and wheel base?) that would provide the most ideal launch - it's not centered in the middle.
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