'90 s10 build
TECH Regular
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 423
Likes: 21
Ya above the neutral line for radials but the location of the bars in that photo will give you an IC of about 120" and 8" off the ground
setup like that will never hook a radial
If you don't swat the Radial into the ground off the line then it's over they won't recover with pedalling
setup like that will never hook a radial
If you don't swat the Radial into the ground off the line then it's over they won't recover with pedalling
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 121
Likes: 16
From: Albany, NY
Ya above the neutral line for radials but the location of the bars in that photo will give you an IC of about 120" and 8" off the ground
setup like that will never hook a radial
If you don't swat the Radial into the ground off the line then it's over they won't recover with pedalling
setup like that will never hook a radial
If you don't swat the Radial into the ground off the line then it's over they won't recover with pedalling
Yeah so the top link on the frame needs to come down quite a bit. It'll put my instant center somewhere in the 35"-45" range. Probably between 150-165%
TECH Regular
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 423
Likes: 21
Been at it for a day or two
only do it cause I'm too stubborn to quit
But anyways you may even find you'll need to move your lower bar up on the chassis to get the results you need
What's your ride height at the front of the rear wheel opening and what is the measurement from your cam and crank centerlines to the ground?
Also how much of your turbo system hangs in front of the motor?
only do it cause I'm too stubborn to quit
But anyways you may even find you'll need to move your lower bar up on the chassis to get the results you need
What's your ride height at the front of the rear wheel opening and what is the measurement from your cam and crank centerlines to the ground?
Also how much of your turbo system hangs in front of the motor?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 121
Likes: 16
From: Albany, NY
Been at it for a day or two
only do it cause I'm too stubborn to quit
But anyways you may even find you'll need to move your lower bar up on the chassis to get the results you need
What's your ride height at the front of the rear wheel opening and what is the measurement from your cam and crank centerlines to the ground?
Also how much of your turbo system hangs in front of the motor?
only do it cause I'm too stubborn to quit
But anyways you may even find you'll need to move your lower bar up on the chassis to get the results you need
What's your ride height at the front of the rear wheel opening and what is the measurement from your cam and crank centerlines to the ground?
Also how much of your turbo system hangs in front of the motor?
15"
11"
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 121
Likes: 16
From: Albany, NY
TECH Regular
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 423
Likes: 21
The degree of the bar is somewhat irrelevant
in your previous post what is the 11" measurement refering to?
Numbers needed are:
axle centerline to ground
location of all holes on diff brackets to ground and how far ahead of the axle centerline
Length of 4 link bars top and bottom
Location of all holes on chassis brackets to ground
in your previous post what is the 11" measurement refering to?
Numbers needed are:
axle centerline to ground
location of all holes on diff brackets to ground and how far ahead of the axle centerline
Length of 4 link bars top and bottom
Location of all holes on chassis brackets to ground
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TECH Regular
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 423
Likes: 21
Are you putting metal or plastic tubs ?
The best stuff to use to fasten them to the quarter panels is Plexus but it's hard to find
it stays semi flexible and is super strong
The flexibility makes it so it doesn't print a giant circle in you quarter panel paint
The best stuff to use to fasten them to the quarter panels is Plexus but it's hard to find
it stays semi flexible and is super strong
The flexibility makes it so it doesn't print a giant circle in you quarter panel paint
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 121
Likes: 16
From: Albany, NY
Probably 20 gauge sheet metal.. since I have all the tools to make them out of that. Shrinker/stretcher/bead roller/etc. Although, I've been wanting to try carbon fiber.
I was going to use panel bond to attach them to the sides. Expensive, but I've used it in the past with good results.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 121
Likes: 16
From: Albany, NY
Thank you. Wiring is definitely one of those things that looks terrifying, but is much easier once you get into it. Most things are just positive/ground with variations depending on amperage/voltage draw. The challenging part I find is laying everything out in my head. Sounds like a great course to get your feet wet, where are you taking it?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 121
Likes: 16
From: Albany, NY
What do you need help with? I have a basic diagram for doing things like lights, turn signals, etc. I've attached a pdf document for it.
My wiring looks crazy because I'm running Holley and an ARC switch. Holley controls pretty much everything engine wise, including my PWM fans, fuel pump, boost control, 2 step, etc.
My wiring looks crazy because I'm running Holley and an ARC switch. Holley controls pretty much everything engine wise, including my PWM fans, fuel pump, boost control, 2 step, etc.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 634
Likes: 27
What do you need help with? I have a basic diagram for doing things like lights, turn signals, etc. I've attached a pdf document for it.
My wiring looks crazy because I'm running Holley and an ARC switch. Holley controls pretty much everything engine wise, including my PWM fans, fuel pump, boost control, 2 step, etc.
My wiring looks crazy because I'm running Holley and an ARC switch. Holley controls pretty much everything engine wise, including my PWM fans, fuel pump, boost control, 2 step, etc.
