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My thoughts are that you want to control or read the actual boost or vacuum the motor sees, and the intake manifold is the only place to be sure you are getting a real reading. That being said, if any of your control or monitoring systems introduce a noticeable leak, then you are doing it wrong. This opinion is, however, related to streetable motors. Race only mills commonly have numerous shortcuts and compromises used.
Just wanted to give everyone an update. I’ve installed the 30psi regulator and it’s working well. My compressor housing has a brass barb the runs directly to the bottom of the wastegate. No more signal being taken from the intake manifold, that only feeds the 3bar MAP and the boost gauge now. The line running out of the compressor tee’s off and goes into the inlet of the adjustable regulator, and then continues out to the TOP of the wastegate to help the spring keep the gate shut. Now I can just spin the **** to increase the pressure keeping the springs shut, which effectively raises the boost.
Before I installed the 30psi regulator, I set it up on my workbench with an air source to try to figure out the curve of how it regulated down and how sensitive it was. Last thing I wanted to do was spin the **** one turn and push the boost past what my motor can handle. Using another regulator, I hooked up shop air (110psi) and regulated it down to a reasonable input that I might expect from the turbo compressor housing, such as 15psi. With that as the new “input”, I started with the 30psi regulator fully shut and slowly opened it up until it was only allowing 2.5psi to pass; this took about 1 turn. Continuing to open up the regulator one turn at a time was actually gave more resolution, as it took about 2 turns to get another 2-3psi out of it. Right now I have it set to about 3 turns “out” from fully shut; boost gauge reads about 11-12 psi at full steam.
For those that might want to use regulators. Old article, but still very relevant. There are 2 parts, but this one covers most stuff from first one anyway
I just went with the Voodoo V MBC from Innovative Performance for $19.95. With a 8lb springs, I have had enough in this controller to properly hold 23lbs with no issues at over 800rwhp. Its very simple and well built.
I just went with the Voodoo V MBC from Innovative Performance for $19.95. With a 8lb springs, I have had enough in this controller to properly hold 23lbs with no issues at over 800rwhp. Its very simple and well built.
Do you just have it between the compressor housing and lower port of wastegate bleeding off pressure?
My thoughts are that you want to control or read the actual boost or vacuum the motor sees, and the intake manifold is the only place to be sure you are getting a real reading. That being said, if any of your control or monitoring systems introduce a noticeable leak, then you are doing it wrong. This opinion is, however, related to streetable motors. Race only mills commonly have numerous shortcuts and compromises used.
The only thing I'll say is my EBC instructions specifically states do not use boost reference for the solenoid off the manifold, source it from the compressor housing. the solenoid would be akin to the manual boost controller.
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